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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
So after a very difficult decision to bring back the EAS...It is finally happening..

All of the major parts have arrived.

- Compressor and Valve block rebuild kit
-Airbags
-Height sensors

I know that I need to still get the securing clips for the airbags and some airbag orings as well.

Can anyone recommend anything else to get to “while I’m at it”?

Or any helpful tips or things to look out for would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks
 

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Assuming you ordered genuine Dunlop air springs and not some Chinese knock offs, they should come with the O rings and collets already installed.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Assuming you ordered genuine Dunlop air springs and not some Chinese knock offs, they should come with the O rings and collets already installed.
Sweet! I haven’t actually opened the boxes yet...So that’s good to know I don’t need to worry about those.

Thanks!
 

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I think the EAS is just magnificent when it's all working properly. You won't regret it.

And once it's all working properly it's quite reliable.

Do it once and do it right! This is what I'd start with, with what I know now.

************************


1) White connector behind the front left kick panel - cut it off and solder and heat shrink every wire.
2) The two large multi plugs inside the valve block - pick them apart and gently tighten all the little gold connectors
3) Install the emergency four piece Schrader manual pump up system but do NOT use those little plastic t-pieces with the blue ends. They leak! Get the brass compression fittings with the brass olives - I put these in. NO leaks at all. Set and forget. I know some users prefer to just carry four Schrader valves as spares and just fit them to the air pipes if needed. I think with the brass fittings, do it once and do it right.
4) Replace the EAS timer under the seat with a standard four pin relay. Do not lose that original timer! You will need it if you have to reset the system.
5) Replace the dessicant in the dryer.
6) Drain the air tank of any water.

Keep us updated!

Tom
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Wow, great information! Thanks Tom!

You pretty much covered all the stuff I initially had in mind.

Do you possibly have a source or link for the brass compression fittings that you used? Iam definitely interested in building my own emergency inflation kit.

Also, did you get the desiccant on ebay or the local stealership? I did see a kit on ebay with purple beads and it looks like a full rebuild kit. But its ebay... so who knows if its the "right stuff" that actually does the job.
 

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Eas kicker, just incase.
Why waste your money on a kicker which will reset a fault condition but not tell you what it was, when you can download the software for free and make up a cable. Then you can read faults, clear faults, manually control the compressor and valves, calibrate the heights, basically do everything you will ever need to do on the EAS for a fraction of the cost.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #9
I forgot to mention that I already have RSW software for calibration and resetting codes.

Although, I didn’t know that there was freeware for our rigs... Richard_G which freeware are you referring to so I can try it out? Or maybe even just keep it on the tablet as a backup?
 

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This one, http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=53&Itemid=56 the RSW Unlock Suite V2, the free version that only does EAS and not the other stuff like the paid for later version does. Storey claims that the original version was a bit flakey but I've never had a problem with it. Use that along with a cable like this http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php/p38a-eas-unlock-videos/167-range-rover-p38a-making-the-eas-serial-cable and you have the complete software and hardware to do all diagnostics on the P38 EAS system. For the first 5 years of ownership of a P38 I used this software and a generic OBD reader and could deal with most things. OK, I didn't have the ability to diagnose HEVAC, BeCM, ABS, SRS, etc faults but they won't stop me from being able to drive the car whereas an EAS fault will.
 

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I have the EAS kicker; I figure if the system lets me down when I'm away I will just reset the system, fit the two jumpers to the ECU connector, pump up the air springs with a bike pump and fix it later.

But I think when the EAS is all properly maintained it's reliable. That's what I've learned. Since I fixed it all up it's been perfect.

Old dessicant in the dryer caused my issues. Replace it!

I think I bought a new dryer and would be wary of after-market dessicant packs on eBay. Ours is special. Of course!

I don't think those brass connectors have a part number but any hose and fittings place should have them; they're only a few bucks and they're totally leak-free. Set and forget! It's a 6 mm brass compression fitting.

The supplier should also have the 6 mm air fitting that goes under the Schrader valve in the attached photo. They also do not leak. Mine don't.

Be aware that most service station air pumps won't have enough pressure to pump up the car. I carry my bike foot pump with me.

I don't seem to be able to get these images to load with the correct rotation...

Tom

EAS 1.JPG

EAS.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the great information guys!

I have just received a shipment from over the pond for the remaining various clips for the airbags. Still on the way now, is 10meters of spare nylon air line, 6mm compression tee’s with the brass olives, and 6mm brass PTC schrader valves.

The last thing I need is the dryer rebuild kit. Or a new dryer. Does anyone know for certain if I get the factory NTC9812; does it come preloaded with new desiccant? A small issue I am having is that the person who sells the rebuild kit on eBay is on vacation and won’t be shipping anything until August, and I don’t want to wait that long.

There is another seller on the other side of the pond that also sells a rebuild kit but it’s almost the same price as a new unit. And if that’s the case I might as well buy a new unit..
 

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I bought the RSW Solutions software, cable and USB to Serial converters on eBay from a guy in Spain. $56US plus $14 shipping. Didn't want to fool around with making a cable. I have installed the software on my Panasonic CF74 Toughbook which has a serial port so I can use it with the cable to work on the EAS. Have changed my height settings as I have the Arnott Gen 3 bags. Have never had a problem getting it to work. Our Norwegian friend has a video showing how to use the software to set heights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=481kvauuOug&t=578s
 

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Since my last post; the coils have come out. The airbags have been put in. The valve block,drier,and compressor have been rebuilt. The brass tees with brass olives have been added in, as an emergency inflation system. Brass schraders valves finished it off. System has been leak free for over a week running it as manual air suspension(even managed a little light off road testing also). Cleaned all the connectors with QD cleaner. Located the method of "eas manual" and am ready to return it to factory EAS. The last thing to do is to connect the height sensors to the vehicle and calibrate it.

My only issue is that one of the hard rubber lower bushings that connect the lower height sensor arm to the suspension has split. The specific one is the right rear radius arm mounting bushing. I tried some searching for a part number but I have failed to find any or any diagrams that indicate that there is a separate part to be had. Has anyone experienced this and knows how to fix it?

Hoping that its an easy fix...thanks in advance
 

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Where do you get the 6mm brass T fittings?
 
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