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Removed the glovebox and trim tonight. Four screws on the bottom and 4 or 6 at the top. Removed the two screws that hold the lock. What is the trick to removing the lock? (I am trying to remove the lock so I can get closer to replacing my orings....) Do I need to remove the fake wood trim? Does the trim just pop off or are there screws holding this in place? Tried to pop it off but was afraid of cracking it. As always, your help is appreciated.

Real goal is two fold, keep the carpet dry on the right side. Pretty sure it is coolant. All I know is the truck is damp on the right side and the paper towels turn yellow/green which is the color of my coolant. Second goal is to stop filling the coolant because it is leaking into the front foot well :p
 

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Good advice. If you close box with cable disconnected you are toast. I got lucky because I had some other screws out so I could open it. Only by a fluke. I was working on a blend motor issue.Second time in I left it connected but managed to disfigure some of soft rubber coating on the switch covers so don't do that either. I was quite annoyed at my foolishness and worst part was that replacement ]used ebay] clock still is slow like my original one.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Kinda late, but if you're talking removing the glovebox pushbutton, which is troublesome, you need to trim some of the interfering button flange off with a small pair of clippers/sharp knife. This will allow it to squeeze through the fittment hole in the wood trim (leave enough though to properly refasten it!). Not sure how they fit this in the factory, but every one I've done this way is a bitch to get out. It's the hardest part of the keyhole method of heater o-ring replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
rtkraken said:
Kinda late, but if you're talking removing the glovebox pushbutton, which is troublesome, you need to trim some of the interfering button flange off with a small pair of clippers/sharp knife. This will allow it to squeeze through the fittment hole in the wood trim (leave enough though to properly refasten it!). Not sure how they fit this in the factory, but every one I've done this way is a bitch to get out. It's the hardest part of the keyhole method of heater o-ring replacement.
\Thank you for the reply. I clipped it a bit and got the button out. Problem turned out to be much more serious though. The guy before me had replaced the screw w/ a bolt (allen head) and had somehow stripped it out! What a mess.....
 
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