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1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1980 Range Rover Classic with an LT95 gearbox. The gearbox had always been pretty "sloppy" where the shifter is all over the place but worked fine. Recently I am unable to shift it into 3rd or 4th gear. Sadly I am unable to wrench to this level and need help in both diagnosing the problem and making the repair. I have a local mechanic who is not necessarily a Land Rover specialist but is qualified and honest. He's saying 'we need to drop the transmission and figure out what's necessary'. Sounds expensive.

Am I better off sourcing a rebuilt LT95 or approaching the repair piecemeal? I am in Long Island NY, so perhaps someone could recommend a shop/mechanic who has the knowledge (and parts!) to make this repair or find a cost effective solution.

Any help or suggestions would be very much appreciated!
 

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I've one the same age and LT95 fitted, currently not in use. They certainly have a loooooong travel as normal :p

I'd first quantify if it's the lever to selector interface In other words, the external mech at the base of gear lever as you can at least decide if it's there before committing to removing/ rebuilding the box.

They are a tough box though so unusual to have something wrong inside without symptoms that slowly get worse during use.

They only run engine oil to fill also and shouldn't be filled with EP gear oil, so verify that is in there and the level is okay.

Can you describe what happens when you try to get those ratios? Is the lever prevented from moving into it's location, or does the lever move to where it's supposed to go and nothing happens?

If you can't get it in gear when driving, will it go in when not running? Ie. Engine off and stationary.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Can you describe what happens when you try to get those ratios? Is the lever prevented from moving into it's location, or does the lever move to where it's supposed to go and nothing happens?
Thanks so much for your response.

More like "nothing happens". Turns out the shifter is able to get into 3rd and 4th gear, but nothing happens when you lift the clutch.

It was also suggested to me to change the rubber disc as the base of the shifter (part 622387). As well as to check that the grub screw (part 576320) is not broken or worn out.
 

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Still I would not rule out an issue with the linkage as RRLondon says I would be unlikely that both 3 and 4th gear have cratered specifically since 4th is actually straight through. The linkage could have lost an index somewhere:
288194


If you remove the seats you can lift the carpet and remove the top of the transtunnel and perform open heart surgery.
 

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Something that would help (both you and any mechanics) is this manual

It's already sold but it's very informative with decent photographs of what you need to do.

It looks as though you've got no connect between the gear lever and the internal selector fork that moves those two ratios in selecting them. That's a fairly simple thing and probably not difficult once accessible.

Basically you remove seats then transmission tunnel to work on the gearbox, the top access panel is then removable to work on the affected components.

There's, in there, a roll pin that locates the selector fork onto it's shaft. The shaft is moved by the gear lever which is supposed to move the selector fork with it. If that pin has failed, or fallen out, the shaft will move but just slide right on through the selector fork (nothing then is moved effectively) giving the fault you have.

The pin is fitted after the components go into the box, so it's one of the last operation to connect all the moving parts together before the cover goes back on. It should be simple to correct, once accessible.

The pin, if fallen out, may be magnetically stuck to the oil drain bolt. But equally it could still be in place but backed out far enough to no longer do it's job. It should be replaced if that's the case to give it it's intended service condition, but will literally cost pennys.
 

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To add, the pin is one like item no 16 in JS5D supplied diagram above.

You can see the fork, shaft, pin orientation in that diagram.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@RRLondon (and @JS5D)

Really appreciate you taking the time to provide your input and advice (and resources!). One always imagines the worst, so it's reassuring to know there may be some relatively simpler fixes to try first, I will report back...

Thanks again..!
 
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