[JohnnoK]

After dropping the brats at school, I stopped in front of my gate to open it, left the car idling in Neutral, and when I got in and selected Drive it made a weird "grumbling" noise and didn't go into gear.
Reverse was brief and then any selection after that was a no-go. Revving it in Drive got a short hop, enough to get it moving, and then back to nothing.
The oil level is good and the GEARBOX FAULT message comes up, but not every time I tried to work through diagnosis.

To add insult to injury, my Nanocom won't come on when plugged in. It works on my Disco, not the P38.

Any ideas?
I am going to drop the sump and fit a new filter and refill as an exercise in troubleshooting, but beyond that, I am stumped.
This is my first automatic, so a bit of a grey area for me.

 

[pooh]

If the sprag clutch is broken, you wont move in D, but will in R and manual 1. But in this case I am not sure you should see the gearbox fault message.
The another option is something else is broken inside.
Do you hear any scrapping or other noise when try to move in D or R or any speed?
How long you have the car, did somebody rebuilt the transmission in the near future? It is extremely important to fit correctly the torque converter, in other case it can damage oil pump an the car can just stop after few hundreds km or miles... Can you see any other message?

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[pooh]

Sorry, in the near past, not future, of course ?

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[JohnnoK]

Hi pooh,
I have had the car about a year, and it has been fine until now.
There was a noise as I selected D to pull into the yard, but that was brief and didn't come back.
There is another noise now, a deep heavy knock at idle, it sounds almost like a big end knock but much deeper and heavier if you understand what I mean. It's also not regular on every turn of the engine like a crank bearing would be, it's rather almost like a heart beat rhythm.
I have no idea of the box's history before my ownership, unfortunately.

I have bought a filter and will drop the sump and replace it and put fresh oil in, just by way of removing that as a probability.

 

[chris no 10]

Pop the inspection cover on the gearbox ( gems, bottom half circle plate, and have a look to see if the flex plate has broke, on the Thor there’s a small round plate on the bottom, if you can move the torque converter with your fingers that a definite flex plate break. )
Either engine, I find pulling the engine forward easier than getting that monster gearbox out if that is the cause.

 

[pooh]

Indeed, this noise could be the broken flexplate as well.

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[TheoR]

I agree with the others that from the sounds of things, it's either the drive plate or the torque converter itself.

I've done a torque converter swap myself about a year or so ago. Wasn't too bad a DIY project. Personally, I suggest splitting the transfer case and the transmission to lighten up what you bring down at a time.

 

[JohnnoK]

Thanks for the replies, folks!
I have been told that it's possible to slide the box back far enough to access the torque converter and pump, so will try that first.
Vehicle wise, right now, it is all rain and no sunshine, chez moi....:naughty:
P38... gearbox failure, must wait for funds to recondition torque converter and replace pump and flex plate if required..
Disco Td5... blown head gasket, collecting new gasket today, so almost done..
Peugeot 405 ...blown head gasket, next in line, so I can hopefully sell the ******* thing..
Hyundai Atos... replacing front brake pads
Right now, it's 7 degrees outside, so I am NOT going anywhere near spanners for a while...