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Discussion Starter #1
Quick background, p38 I've had for 10 years, extensive offloading, no EAS. Drove it out of driveway, sputtered and died. Camshaft sensor code and a bunch of others, crank, no start. Changed crankshaft sensor, tested fuel pump, spark, changed camshaft sensor, still no start. After sitting 5 days, battery totally dead. New battery, fusebox swapped with other p38, fired rightnow. New fusebox installed now. Still showing camshaft sensor code , eboxfan code and O2 sensor heater codes. Changed camshaft sensor again with another new one, same code immediately upon startup. Got another ebox fan, manually tried to turn on with TekPro3000 and can't do it. Checked fuses in BECM as well.

At a loss now. Did I fry the ECU or BECM? Did I fry part of wiring harness? Bad ground? I will start going through the wiring diagram tonight but very frustrated. I picked up a used ECU from pick n pull but dont want to install because it would need to be synced with BECM. Should I yank the BECM from wrecker as well and then dont need to sync? Unfortunately I bought a sync-mate many years ago but it is for GEMS not my Bosch.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If you go to the junk yard, you should get BECM + ECU + Instrument Cluster. Swap all three, unless you want the mileage in your cluster to be updated to the greater of the two mileages (your truck and the parts truck). Check the connectors to the ECU and BECM for oxidation. If they are in bad shape:
1. wash them with vinegar
2. wash them with water that had baking soda dissolved in it,
3. rinse with fresh water
4. dry and lubricate with special grease that conducts electricity (NOT dielectric grease, which does the opposite of what you want here).

If you swap all three and all fuses and fuse boxes are good the only thing that's left is the wiring. Unless, of course, your fans and O2 sensors are legitimately dead. You can probably check them out using a power supply of the right voltage and amperge, plus a multimeter. As for cam sensor, occasionally you get a defective brand new part, so I would have it tested on a known working truck, if I had the luxury.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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have you tried your sink mate it might read the becm . I think the nano will read all becm's?gems and bosch
maybe someone else knows more ?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I dont want to replace the ECU without having a sync tool. The one I have is for a GEMS engine. It still drives right now.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I dont want to replace the ECU without having a sync tool. The one I have is for a GEMS engine. It still drives right now.
So just to clarify... it does start and drive again now, but throws up Cam Sensor and eBox fan codes still?

Cam sensor - check the wiring on the engine loom side - I've heard of numerous times where oil /coolant has gotten into the plug and then into the wiring and corroded a wire, and caused random issues.

eBox fan... not sure about that one... I've never heard mine turn the fan on, unless it's always running when the ignition is on. I'm sure it will still run OK without it.

Also... I've just had a look in the electrical manual in RAVE, check fuse F26 in the engine bay fuse box... It has a splice somewhere in the engine loom, and supplies power to the EVAPS purge valve, Secondary Air Injection Valve, MAF, the Ebox fan, and you guessed it, the cam sensor

It's a brown/pink wire and has a couple of splices in it, looking at the ETM - so might be worth checking for short circuit/open circuit on that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. Will check that fus again and wiring. May run back to junkyard for that BECM. My buddy has a shop that can program BECMs so hopefully we can test it. The plug that was loose under the fusebox that was shorting was a lead to the BECM, hence my concern that I fried something.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks! Fuse 26 is bad with new fusebox and blows turning truck to position 1 before starting. Obviously I have a short somewhere. Need to dive deep into wiring now. With my new computer I didn't have the full RAVE. Will fire up old laptop.
 

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Fuse 26 supplies power to a number of the engine sensors (O2 sensors, MAF, cam position sensor, etc) and the ebox fan. That would explain your codes and as you've been in there to change the fan, that would be the first place I'd look.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Sounds like a short. Start by using your multimeter. Pull Fuse26, measure resistance between fuse and chassis. Does it measure close to 0 ohms? If so, Keep the multimeter measuring the resistance (continuity mode helps since it beeps). Now start by unplugging (one at a time) the Evap canister, secondar air injection valve, e-box fan, idle air control valve, both left o2, both right o2, camshaft position sensor, MAF. All of those share the same F26, so you'll want to isolate where the problem might be. Unplug one at a time, check resistance reading until you see it change. If you unplug all and you're still seeing a short, time to inspect wiring. Doing the above should hopefully help you narrow in to the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Digging into wiring diagram, yes everything seems to be related to Fuse 26. The truck does run and drive, smells a little rich which is to be expected since engine isn't running correctly.

Replacing the fuse, it blows as soon as I click to position 1 BEFORE I even start the truck. But the truck will run even after fuse is blown.

Last fall. I broke the passenger side shock tower mount, completely ripped it off the frame offroading. We welded and reinforced it last year. Secondary air pump was destroyed as well. Finally changed out secondary air recently.

Went on a bumpy offroad trip in June. No issues. In July, I was leaving my driveway, which has a small dip at the end, the truck sputtered and died 10 yards later. Diagnosed a faulty fusebox with the underside post closest to the firewall loose which I believe is one of the 3 connected to BECM. I replaced the crank sensor and camshaft sensor and battery while diagnosing faulty fusebox.

Looks like I need to follow the wire directly in the engine bay. Also will disconnect all sensors related to fuse 26 and reconnect each individually to see if one component if killing it. My fear is that the ECU or BECM are shorting internally.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Also, when the truck died, I towed back into my driveway and it sat for a week before I could look at it. The battery, only 1.5 years old and a deep cycle was totally dead. Bought a new one.

From the wiring diagram, I will be following a NK wire or brown/pink and it seems to control all my issues: ebox fan, SAI, camshaft sensor, heated O2 and more.

So glad the D110 with 300tdi swap i am building only has 4 wires into the engine and 2 are sensors!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A bit further into it, fuse 26 doesn't appear related to BECM. The connector that was loose was either C1333 or C1335. C1333 is connected to fuses 23 to 25 but not 26. Hoping the BECM isn't fried. I did grab a new ECU from the junkyard just in case.
 

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It isn't the BeCM and it isn't the ECU, it's the bit of wire that runs from fuse 26 to the various sensors. It's shorting to ground somewhere, just trace it and find out where.......
 
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