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Discussion Starter #1
new problem this week the fuel gauge has stopped working, the needle is sat on empty with the warning light on, there's at least half a tank of petrol in it. Luckily I run on LPG but the Rangie has to start on petrol so it'd be nice to have the gauge working again.

On occassion I have seen "Fuel Gauge Fault" in the message centre and sometimes when you switch on the fuel gauge shows half a tank but soon the needle drops to empty but only seen

Checked the fuse and relay for the fuel pump they're ok, is it the sender unit in the tank or more likely a dodgy earth connection somewhere?
 

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It's going to be faulty sender, loose connection above the fuel tank to the pump / sender or contaminents on the sender.

The fuel gauge shares the earth with other gauges so doubt if it's that.

I had this recently, bought new sender (£40 ish), popped the back end on car ramps and dropped the tank.
when i disconnected the multiplug above the tank it was too easy. They clip together and this time it just slid apart.
Took the old sender out and tested with a multimeter (checking resistance) to find it did just the same as a new one.

Put it all together again making sure the multiplug was fully connected and all works as it should.

The whole job took approx 3 hrs including cups of tea and checking the sender.
The tank was approx 1/2 full when i did mine. I used ratchet straps around the chassis to lower the tank. It could be done without them and with just a jack and a second pair of hands.
 

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Sounds like it might be the tracks on the sender, pretty hard for the wiring to come loose. Another cause may be the the fuel float itself has soaked up some fuel and has basically sunk.. Doesn't matter what is is though, the tank has to come out..
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cheers guys sounds like a job for a sunny afternoon.

Keith, where did you get your sender for £40? Does it seperate from the fuel pump then and not a combined sealed unit?
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Mine hasn't worked for about 2 years. I replaced the pump and I think the aftermarket pump has a problem. I cut a hole through the floor and plugged in the old pump and the fuel gauge worked.

I'll enlarge the hole and remove the pump from inside the car. My tank is a 155 litre aftermarket long range tank and is steel so I don't really want to drop the tank out.

There is a page on the main site http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html about cutting a hole in the floor but unfortunately the writer hadn't measured the distances from a couple of reference points to the centre of the pump so that we could accurately determine exactly where to cut the hole.

I could give my measurements but I don't know if they are the same for a standard fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks both I'll look into that, I'll go for a genuine one rather than aftermarket

Ron, don't fancy cutting a hole in the floor to be honest I'll get the car up in the air and drop the tank from below, it may just be an iffy connection ontop of the tank but I'll get a sender just in case.

Cheers for help guys.
 

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That idea of ratchet straps from the chassis I like; I had to drop mine for the in tank pump and it's great fun balancing it on the jack.
I also struggled to get the filler neck in and out ; high suspension setting helps then leave a door open of pull the relay.

Last tip; get a tin of paint. The 'cradle' that holds the tank can really collect salt and cause corrosion; first thing as you get it off clean it and give it a coat of paint - what harm can it do?
 

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I had the same 'FUEL GAUGE FAULT' message and needle sitting on empty with orange light on. The sender from the tank was faulty - once fixed/ replaced it worked fine....until recently.
Now my same mechanic is telling me that it is a BeCM fault, not tank related. I am suspicious that he doesn't want to drop the tank again and instead charge me for a new BeCM. Your thoughts appreciated.
 

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Would doubt it's the becm.
Call his bluff, get him to fit the becm while your there, if it does not work you get the becm for free. :roll:
 

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Not a bad call considering he will have to order it from another supplier.
He has also stated that my minor cruise control issue is BeCM related. Cruise works fine however at hills it gradually slows down (I'm guessing this is NOT electrical...maybe I am wrong) :think:

I might need to change the badge on my car to your avatar Keith.
 

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for the cost of a sender i would do the job myself and have words with the garage afterwards.

You say the cruise slows down on hills, does the engine change down gear?
If not it could be gearbox / transfer ecu (not clued up on these) post a new thread about the cruise and someone on here will have the answer
 

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Doesn't change down gears. Will post a new thread. Cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
waveydavey said:
That idea of ratchet straps from the chassis I like; I had to drop mine for the in tank pump and it's great fun balancing it on the jack.
I also struggled to get the filler neck in and out ; high suspension setting helps then leave a door open of pull the relay.

Last tip; get a tin of paint. The 'cradle' that holds the tank can really collect salt and cause corrosion; first thing as you get it off clean it and give it a coat of paint - what harm can it do?

Good call I'll try the ratchet strap idea, there's some chassis black paint lurking in the back of my sisters garage too... `)
 

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p38arover said:
Mine hasn't worked for about 2 years. I replaced the pump and I think the aftermarket pump has a problem. I cut a hole through the floor and plugged in the old pump and the fuel gauge worked.

I'll enlarge the hole and remove the pump from inside the car. My tank is a 155 litre aftermarket long range tank and is steel so I don't really want to drop the tank out.

There is a page on the main site http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/fuelpump4.html about cutting a hole in the floor but unfortunately the writer hadn't measured the distances from a couple of reference points to the centre of the pump so that we could accurately determine exactly where to cut the hole.

I could give my measurements but I don't know if they are the same for a standard fuel tank.
I pulled my fuel pump out yesterday and checked the float.

The float is some kind of foam material. It had a split along each side and was saturated with petrol. when I squeezed the float, petro exuded from the foam.

I put the old pump and the one I just took out into a bucket of petrol. The old float floated, vthe new one did not.

So I swapped the float from my old pump to the new pump and will reinstall it tomorrow after I finish making a tool to tighten the clamping ring for the tank(the clamping ring is not the same as a standard fuel tank as I have an aftermarket long range tank fitted).

On a side note, I have now taken measurements from a hole cut in the floor of a P38A with an OEM tank (thanks Andrew E) and will put that info up here and on the main site.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Cheers I'll look out for that, haven't got round to fixing it yet drivers door seals need replacing first then I'll have a go at getting the pump out. It's not too much of an issue as I run it mostly on gas.....but one day the tank will be empty and for once the gauge will be acurate :lol:
 

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Yep. I mainly run on LPG, too, but my system needs a new converter diaphragm and I can't get one owing to delays in shipping out of Europe (due to volcano the supplier claims). As a result I need my petrol gauge to work, especially as I am now back at work after 4 months leave.
 

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I now have a working fuel gauge! :)
 

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My fuel guage is stuck at about 80% full, and the 'RANGE' doesn't seem to change more that a couple of km from 455. Sender problem or stuck float???
 

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Download RAVE (link given in "Top 10 FAQ's....") to check the resistance at the BeCM connection, pin 10 iirc (i forget connector/ wire colour) its more likely the actual sender/float but if you follow/check RAVE and the value is not changing and is broadly consistent with a 80% full tank then the wires/BeCM/instrument pack can safely be ruled out (i.e nice to be sure before you start to drop the tank)
 
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