RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

·
Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys

Firstly - what a great forum. I purchased my first RR 8 weeks ago - 2002 HSE TD6. With the help of this forum I've been able to restore her to her former glory so thanks to all the members for all their helpful posts and solutions. You've literally saved my £1000's but more importantly given me hours and days of satisfaction as I've tackled endless restorations and fixes one by one. How I have ever not owned a RR before I do not know... This could be the start of a dangerous obsession...

Anyway, I'm hoping for some help with a frustrating intermittent problem I am experiencing on the old girl. I can go for days with her driving faultlessly... And then out of the blue the following happens...

-Power feels constrained to about 70-80 percent in the low revs
-turbo definitely kicking in (I know as I have lost a turbos on my 335D before and this is nothing like it)
-At about 3000RPM in what feels like 3rd gear I doesn't kick into 4th and revs high, plumes of black smoke, no real power gain. It's favourite time for this is going up a hill. If I get the power delivery right I can get her up to 4th and the smoke eases and she'll return to normal running at about 2500rpm
-whilst all this is going on, it sounds like the heater/ac blows hard even when it's on low setting or off

Been happening on and off for 3 weeks now and this is what I have done and checked so far from the forum posts.

- inspected intake manifold. Sprayed a bucked load of brake cleaner around all the manifold while running to see this has failed and engine does react like I've given it a shot of red bull
- removed egr valve and fitted bypass
- service. Air filter, pollen, oil, fresh oil
- replaced crank case breather filter. Was pretty gungy. Upgrade to the BMW cyclone filter from the original foam one
- 2 fuel treatments and flush
- had a garage spend 5 hours carrying out inspections - they checked the turbo and confirmed it's not that

That's where I am. After each of the above I think I've fixed it and she's running ok but my joy doesn't last long.

Very frustrating as this will be the last thing that I need to do. I've replaced so many of the worn or broken parts and serviced the old girl and she looks lovely.

Here's my list of jobs completed so far in addition to above:

- Had the cream leathers professionally restored. £400 - worth every penny
- Rear wiper arm replacement
- High Level Brake Lights
- Interior Boot Trim
- Parcel Shelf
- Door release cable
- Replaced foundry finish interior parts with piano black (just waiting from some go come back from Garnish Dips)
- Replaced all cigarette lighters with USB ports
- New headlining
- Fixed 1 folding mirror, 1 left to fix
- New keys and fobs (only got one with the car and it failed and went into what I can only describe as hijack mode so a recovery to RR Main Dealer, new keys and programming required)
- New napa leather steering wheel with chrome spoke inserts
- Rebadged all round and wheels (sits on 22 overfinch TIGERS)
- Titanium badges and plastic fittings on exterior
- Deep clean interior
- Replace standard stereo with a Touchscreen DAB one
- Replace rear view auto dim mirror - leaked
- Fix electric steering wheel rake failure

Left to do.

- Fix the this engine problem
- Alloy refurb
- Final interior piano black installs
- Exterior detail on paintwork
- Poss instrument binnacle pixel failure
... Then enjoy and probably pick up another project as I have loved every minute of it and driving her.

Any help or experience would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys!

L
 

·
Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
10 Posts
boost control valve located behind the high-pressure pump, a common fault of the turbo diesels, not very expensive.
 

·
Registered
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Would I expect to see any fault codes appear? I have connected my obd2 kit and it's reporting nothing.

Any checks I can do to confirm it's this before I head out and buy the part and try to fix?

Thanks


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
Top