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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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My Rover is also US spec, LHD, and the wiring is in the right side, or passenger sill. Not sure about the possible configurations otherwise availalbe.
 

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Crazy, I have spent an hour out there looking for grey/black wires. No dice. My symptoms are that only the drivers side (left) window isn't working, should I keep hunting for wires ?
 

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Hi Everyone,

I feel like this is going to be my fix as my sunroof is notoriously leaky (another days issue) but how did people get off the second plastic cover?

It is the length of both passenger doors and looks to be held in place with sliding clips (white, circular) but the plastic goes beneath the carpet. I see the wiring loom I need to get to but no amount of forward force is getting this second plastic tray out. Pics attached (hope they work)

View attachment 139225
View attachment 139233
Please help before my wife divorces me (it's her RR/SC) for not taking it to the dealership!!
It will come up, remove the two white circular clips then pull like a mofo on one (front) end of it, straight up and squeeze it past the weather stripping.
 

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I had the same issue and i check the wiring diagram.
i found that one relay is not giving the permission to open the front window
so i connected B going to the window motor directly to ground.
now i can open close front windows without ignition on.
i think thats not the official way but working
fenster.jpg

you think i have the same problem with the wire on passenger side?

where is the drain hole to check?
 

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Finally found the elusive grey/black trio of wires. Splice looked solid but I re-did it with solder, heatshrink and electrical tape. Reassembled the door because I had the card off to test the switch and VOILA, drivers side (and all others) are working great now.

Oh and for those who can't get the cover up or find the wires just remember that it does come up, there are no tricks and the wires ARE in there.

For the record, mine were about 1/2 way along the sill, lying on the floor of the vehicle, right under the very bottom of the bundle and had a black splice (not blue tape)

Thanks for the inspiration guys !
 

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Well,

I've gotten inside of the wire bundle for the 6th, possibly 7th time. I've gotten significantly more aggressive trying to find this, removing all of the wire ties and electrical tape the entire length of the front door sill. I'm finally seeing a couple of these blue-tape wrapped wires, but they are all the way up front, up and under the dash/fuse box. based on where they are positioned, it almost appears to me that they were intentionally placed up and out of potential standing moisture. My car is a 2007, is there any indicatation that LR made modifications to this poor design and that my cables may be up and tucked out of the way? I'm beginning to wonder if there could be something else causing my issue.
While I do have water occasionally in the front passenger side, and there is clearly evidence of water intrusion under the wire loom, i cant find any connections that appear to be impacted by moisture.

Just to clarify, and perhaps my issues are slightly different than others, let me describe my specific situation. My Driver's side window switch unit is completely offline. When it was working, there was a green backlight to the switch cluster itself. Now it's just dark/off. My front PASSENGER window DOES work, however, but neither of the rear windows go up or down. Both of the rear windows, as well as the passenger window controls, are illuminated with the backlight.

I've checked, and re-checked all fo the fuses, and they are good. I'm curious if the Window Lift Relay may be defective, and I understand it's located in the CJB, but there is no labeling that I can find that identifies which relay it is. Does anyone happen to know how to locate that relay?

Also, I noticed in another thread some discussion about doing a "hard reset" on the car's electrcal system/ECUs by disconnecting the battery, letting the car sit for 10minute, then shorting out the positive/negative vehicle leads (the cables that connect to the battery) in an effort to drain out any persistent information in the ECUs. This has been linked to battery problems that resulted in certain electrical systems not working properly, including the windows. I definitely had a bad battery as it got toward the end of it's life. It was initially replaced with a battery that I later determined was undersized from a cranking amps perspective. That battery lasted only 9months. Does anyone believe resetting the electrical, per above, is worthwhile? Any potential risk?

I'm open to suggestions. I'm really tired of having to open my car door at drive-up ATMs/parking garages and Restaurants!!

I've not given up on finding the elusive wires either....i know many of you found them very hard to find, but when you did they were nearly always under the loom near the center of the entry....never up underneath as it appears my other connections are.

Thanks for any pointers you may have
 

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I don't think the Window Lift Relay would effect the backlight of the Drivers Window Switch Pack.

I did read somewhere that you should expect battery voltage at the Drivers Window Switch Pack and the Window motor with the ignition on and the switches at rest. Perhaps start there and see if you get 12v at the connector ?
 

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As I thought, from the manual

"With the switches in the rest position, there is battery voltage at both sides of each switch as well
as at the window motors. Operating any switch provides a ground path through the switch to the
window motor. Operating the switch in the opposite direction switches the voltage path and the
ground path to the motor allowing the motor to run in the opposite direction"

Test for voltage at the switch in the drivers door and at the motor.
 

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More info on the LR3 forum

There are no window lift relays.

Yes, that is the sad news - there is no window lift relay as we know them. By that I mean no rectangular black thing, big or small, that can be removed. The relay is built into the Central Junction Box printed circuit board and is not removable.

Operation of the relay is controlled by the CJB. When energized, the window lift relay provides a feed to fuse 17P, fuse 30P, and fuse 31P. Fuse 30P (C0585) provides a feed to the passenger door window motor (C0741) on a GU wire.

Fuse 31P (C0585) provides a feed to the drivers door window switch (C0343) on a GU wire. Fuse 17P (C0585) provides a feed to the drivers door window switch (C0343) on a GN wire.
 

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Here are the connections that I have found. I did not want to start cutting until I posted a picture. Do any of these look familiar?

1) 3 black wires
2) 3 purple wires- white stripe
3) 6 thin read wires- 3 from each side
4) 5 red wires- 2 connecting to 3[attachment=0:nbncnm8u]wiring.jpg[/attachment:nbncnm8u

I have an 08 sport hse and I found the purple wires but for the life of me I can't find the black ones
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Hi, I saw your post about the solution for the problem. I just started having the exact same issue as described. (RRS 2006) I tried looking for the wires that you mentioned and the other guy posted a picture bellow, but my wires look completely different, they are all connected to a screw on the car body (on the side) and there is no way water would reach that area. We had lots of rain yesterday and I took the car this morning to change the air springs and everything was working perfectly until I drove home and the front windows stopped working.

Maybe I could be looking into the wrong place? (I removed a plastic cover under the clove compartment to the right, basically the car wall? I'm sorry but English is not my primary language and I'm trying hard to communicate...:) I see a bunch of wires and the ones that resembles what you are saying are directly connected to a screw in the car body and I can't follow them because they are coming from a group of wires from underneath the floor carpet and doesn't seem to be any space there to work on anything because all the wires are together in that pile). Any advise on what else should I be looking for or even if I'm looking into the right spot?

Thanks
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Vampyre...you need to look under the passenger door sill, not on the side wall below the glove box. Pry up the plastic and begin the patient search for the wires which have corroded...it takes a little bit of time, but you'll find it.
 

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Hey gentlemen,


you guys are fantastic!
My mechanic could not solve this issue and wanted to replace a costly control unit.
This tread made me work on the passenger side although I never had water there where as the driver side was totally soaked.


What I like to share withyou:
  • it was also the black-gray cable in my case.
  • My problem window was only driver side. All others worked.
  • my contacts were not taped (rrs sc 2005). Instead the tree cables were sealed with a perfectly new looking “melted plastic stick”.
  • Your pics above made me cut it open and found the corroded contacts inside!
cheers
stefan
Foto 19.11.15, 11 59 17.jpg
Foto 19.11.15, 19 52 07.jpg
Foto 19.11.15, 19 52 14.jpg
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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I also had similar problem, blocked sunroof drain, water on passenger floor, driver window stopped working.

To access the loom

1. Remove b pillar trim panel on side of pillar between front and back door. There are 4 push clips holding it on - i used a plastic trim tool to pry off each corner and it comes off easily

2. Use the trim tool to lever up the long plastic cover that runs across the door jambs - it is held in place with tabs that slot into metal clips below. It should just pop up.

3. Now you should see the black plastic cover over the wiring loom. It is held down with three white push pins - i removed those by using screw driver to pop up the pins - takes a bit of force . then you can lift the cover up starting at the front using the trim tool as a lever - you dont need to remove it : or remove the seatbase plastics- just pull it up enough to see the loom.

4. There were two splice bundles on top of my loom : fairly easy to see. One was purple wires, the other the black^grey ones we are looking for: about half way along the door.

5. Probably good to have battery disconencted at this point- then carefully pull the splice bundle through the wrap that holds it to the loom. Hard to see any issue or damage at this point. I cut the three wires at end of the heat shrink : and yes - then you might see some corrosion in there.

6. Carefully strip back 1/2 in or so of each wire with wire stripper - twist the ends together and solder them to make good connection :hearts:(i used aluminum foil to protect thr area around the wires i was soldering. Put heat shrink on the end (i got bag of various sizes at frys ) and use soldering iron to shrink it down and close the ends

7. Now reconnect the battery and test the window. Mine was fixed like magic !

8. Put wires back down into loom cavity, put black plastic cover on and press three white push pins to hold it in place. Make sure the metal clips ate in place that hold the next piece down.

9. Put plastic cover back down over door jamb and then b pillar cover back - carefully aligning clips with holes .

Top job as they say on wheeler dealers
 

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Hi everyone, I will start looking into this wires to try to fix my same problem, but I have still two questions:
1. Are we talking the front passenger window?
2. Does anyone has a full picture of the door panel so I can see where to look at?

Thanks,
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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1. This fix was for drivers window not working - on us leftvhand drive models

2. The wiring is under passenger floor - you do noy need to remove door panel

3. If your passenger window is not working - maybe it is something else ? First check fuse. The connectors under the front seats - i dont recall which side is the box the windows are controller through ? Then open the door panel ( search for youtube video on that) and see if the motor is getting voltage - etc.
 

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2006 Range Rover Sport 2016 Mercedes S550 4MATIC
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I have the same problems:
1) Front windows cannot be rolled down -- it just happened one day.
2) After open the passenger side door sill, I found some water near the chunk of wires.
3) I found the black tapes/ connectors for the three black wires and purple wires. After I open the tapes, the connections are well kept. I cut one inch for both anyway and rewired.

Unfortunately it didn't solve my window problem.

4) I checked the fuses for both driver side and passenger side windows. They are both good.

What else could it be? Thanks guys.
 

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I found the black tapes/ connectors for the three black wires and purple wires. After I open the tapes, the connections are well kept. I cut one inch for both anyway and rewired.
The black/purple wires are not what you're looking for. You need to find the gray/black splice as pictured several times in this thread.
 
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