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re: Front & Rear Diff Issues + Fluid Changes

Add me to list of needing rear diff. When I test drove vehicle I did hear some noise but didn't seem out of ordinary. Now after a week of owning it I can tell rear diff is going bad. At 73mph it really whines on light accel. Then after driving for 1/2 hour around 35-45 it's noisy. Thank goodness for extended warranty. Guess really no point in changing its fluid sice that's not technically due till 75K & I have only 67K.
 

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Transfer Case

I'm having a momentary lapse. Unlike the diffs, I'm 99% sure the transfer case is fill until you spill...correct?

I think I'll change the diff and t/c fluids sometime this week (hopefully).
 

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Re: Transfer Case

Correct. T/C is topped through the hole. Honestly I don't know why they say to measure the diffs. It's like 1mm from the bottom of the hole any way.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

Thanks. I may measure it anyway depending on the fill port location. I don't have a lift in my garage and the car is uneven on the jackstands. I've been working on my Toyota lately and just had a brain fart on the RRS.

Just hit 215K (50K/yr) on the Toyota and going for 300K.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

This brings me to a question I've pondered on the RRS since every other differential I've ever seen has been fill to spill. Was it impossible for Magna Steyr to move the fill hole down several mm?
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I have no idea why they set it up like this.

It is more of a hassle to fill correctly, but my main gripe with it is that is makes it very difficult check fluid level.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I did it once with no issues but did another change about 20k later on the diff... but what issue would you have by going till the fill hole . ...
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I did it once with no issues but did another change about 20k later on the diff... but what issue would you have by going till the fill hole . ...
You can get seal leaks if its overfilled. Will it if you just overfill it to the hole? I have no idea, I would guess prolly not. But as shaky as these diffs are...
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I changed my F+R diff fluids this w/e. So even so I know that 3 Qts will do both diffs, when I was at the LR dealer picking up some diff oil the Parts guy mentioned that they always charge out 4 Qts on a F/R diff oil change in the shop. They come two to a sealed box for some reason. So, besides being impressed that the dealer has figured out how to make an extra $20 on each F+R diff service, I had an idea, so I bought an extra Qt. With my frequent flier discount, it came to $17 and change for each Qt, I have the non-locker in the R.

My idea
: Figure out what the "fill to spill" volume was relative to what actually drained out, because there seems to be a certain caution in the official instructions about not filling to spill.

(I tried to level the car the best I could using four jackstands. And my maintenance schedule on the diffs has been... initial change @30K followed by 60K intervals thereafter.)

The front diff:
So the official volume is to fill is 0.61 L or 610 ml.

The last time I filled this was at 30K, I now have 87K. This was due for its 60K interval which would have been at 90K.

I know this was filled per spec because I last did this at my mechanic's shop with him. Used LR OE fluid at 30K.

Open fill plug nothing drains out. So far so good. Drain diff I get 520ml of oil.

Put drain plug back in and fill to spill => 610 ml of oil...so on the front the difference is ~90 ml of oil between factory spec fill and "fill to spill"

So. This leaves you with two options when filling the diff.

1. Just replace what you took out
2. Fill to spill, then crack the outlet and let ~100 ml drain out.

I actually think 2 is easier because you don't have to constantly check what you are putting in as you fill.

Btw. Here is a pic of the diff oil after draining. The plug was very clean as well with just a 1 mm film of sludge.

IMG_0999-1.jpg

IMG_0998-2.jpg

The rear diff:
Here's where it gets interesting. I had my rear diff replaced at the dealer at 55K b/c pinion bearing went south. This is the replacement diff so it has only ~35K on it.

Factory fill spec is 1,100 ml.

Open the fill port and oil comes running out. It was overfilled... after measuring all the fluid it comes to 1,300 ml.

So, this diff has been running with a ~200 ml overfill for 35K. The seals are not leaking and its running fine as far as I can tell.

This makes the "fill what came out" a non starter--so I do the "fill to spill" and the diff case takes ~ 1,200 ml before it starts dripping. Based on my previous experience with the front I would estimate that filling the rear to OE spec would take ~100-150 ml (it's bigger) shy from "fill to spill".

So the question came up earlier about what happens on an overfill? I would feel safe saying "nothing" based on the fact mine was overfilled by 200 ml and did not have any issues for 35K. The caveat is that the overfill was not extreme, but if you did a "fill to spill" when you did your change I'm not sure anything would still happen. My sample size is also a big fat 1 so maybe I'm just lucky, but I'm wondering why the big deal on this per the LR instructions.

By the way, the rear diff oil also looked great (less dark than the front), with only a slightly larger amount of sludge on the plug maybe 1.5mm but slightly "hairier".


IMG_1000.jpg

IMG_0997-1.jpg

So there you have my unscientific assessment on how critical the fill amounts are on the diffs.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

Good to hear yours are in good shape, and I agree, there really is not enough of a difference between the bottom of the fill plug to the advertised capacity to really make any major difference. Now if you plan on going the full 150k miles between changes, who knows if that little extra fluid will cause a problem.

Personally, I have a fluid suction gun that puts in just over 0.6L per pump. I use this for both, and fill it slightly less on the second pump for the rear, for the open units.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I'm in the stone age.

IMG_0991.jpg
Disregard the transfer case fluid bottle attached to it... as I did the Transfer Case as well.

I should also mention that the diff fluid was not hot by the time I got to it as I did an engine oil change prior to hitting the diffs.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I mentioned this in another post, but before I change out the diff fluid I put strong rare earth magnets on the diff bolts ($2.50 at Home Depot). It provides a little extra help with getting every metal flake out of the diff. Then I take a drive at high speed for about 10 minutes and when I arrive home I change the fluid before the it starts to cool.
 

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Re: Transfer Case

I mentioned this in another post, but before I change out the diff fluid I put strong rare earth magnets on the diff bolts ($2.50 at Home Depot). It provides a little extra help with getting every metal flake out of the diff. Then I take a drive at high speed for about 10 minutes and when I arrive home I change the fluid before the it starts to cool.
That's not a bad idea ChadS.

And if you pick up any screws from the roadway in the process, its one less screw in a tire for someone. `)
 

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Re: Transfer Case

Just picked up my 06 rrss from a very good import shop. Closest land rover dealer is 90 mile away.

Anyways had noticed a whine in front of car going 65-75 cruising under a load. Let off and it goes away. Been noticing this for past 1000 miles and it got a little louder. Just started leaking fluid on my floor. A few drips over night.

Shops findings are that it is my front diff leaking and it's slinging the oil all over the place.

I have only 41k miles. This is crazy

Next step is I am taking it to LR and going to have them look at it to tell me the same things.
Is there anything the manufacture is doing to help out with this costly replacement?

If not is there any other places to get a replacement for cheaper?

Thanks
Dan
 

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Re: Transfer Case

Just picked up my 06 rrss from a very good import shop. Closest land rover dealer is 90 mile away.

Anyways had noticed a whine in front of car going 65-75 cruising under a load. Let off and it goes away. Been noticing this for past 1000 miles and it got a little louder. Just started leaking fluid on my floor. A few drips over night.

Shops findings are that it is my front diff leaking and it's slinging the oil all over the place.

I have only 41k miles. This is crazy

Next step is I am taking it to LR and going to have them look at it to tell me the same things.
Is there anything the manufacture is doing to help out with this costly replacement?

If not is there any other places to get a replacement for cheaper?

Thanks
Dan
My 06's diff crapped out around 32k miles, two years ago. Since you are clearly beyond factory warranty the only thing the dealer will do for you is relieve you of your hard earned cash.
 

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I think its measured because of the air suspension changing the angle of the drain plug on the diff. I didn't fill one very accurately once and I felt it right away. if you don't fill it measured nearly perfectly its pretty obvious in terms of the drive.
 

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I think its measured because of the air suspension changing the angle of the drain plug on the diff. I didn't fill one very accurately once and I felt it right away. if you don't fill it measured nearly perfectly its pretty obvious in terms of the drive.
........Que?
 

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I see this thread won't die - and for good reason. I'm getting the same #$(# objectionable burning differential fluid smell in the first 20 minutes of drive time. My front diff must be leaking again, and I've only put on about 13K miles since I've had it replaced. This sucks - I'm going to have to get underneath the beast to poke around and see what's going on.

Happy 47th Birthday to me, then. :sad:
 
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