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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My front passenger door will not open either from the inside or the outside. All the other doors are fine and the locking system seems to be working fine. It doesn't appear to be a mechanical problem since the handles travel the normal distance. Could this be some kind of an electronic and or computer issue? I would certainly welcome any suggestions. :?:
 

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Hi to All I placed a tread on here sometime ago how to over come this problem search sillyboy if you can't find it come back. best of luck sillyboy
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Its a bugger, remove back door and support.

Get a couple of longer drills and some tubing and enjoy.
There is a thread here with pics, cant remember who but may be worth going through my posts and shift through them
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Had same problem on drivers door. As under warranty (2nd hand) took back. Dealer solution was to remove external trim from bottom of window, slide 3 foot chisel down to lock activator, hit with lump hammer. Apparently a known prob. you have to remove door trim and replace activator immediately afterwards of course as door will no longer lock.
 

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jime said:
Had same problem on drivers door. As under warranty (2nd hand) took back. Dealer solution was to remove external trim from bottom of window, slide 3 foot chisel down to lock activator, hit with lump hammer. Apparently a known prob. you have to remove door trim and replace activator immediately afterwards of course as door will no longer lock.

I've yet to try this, I guess it works well....
 

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Hi to All, Search my post "Door locke that wont open" it will save you all that damage with the hammer and chisels, also you canot remove the outside waist trim without removing the small screw just above the door lock on the inside of the door my way sounds like a lot of work but it realy is'nt i've used this method three times and keep the tool i made in a safe place for future use. Best regards sillyboy
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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"you canot remove the outside waist trim without removing the small screw just above the door lock on the inside of the door "
Aint disputing any other method of fixing this BUT I assure you I sat in my drivers seat and watched the dealer (or at least his mechanic) remove the trim from the base of the window and bash the lock exactly as I described. It therefore follows you must be able to remove this trim without removing internal screw. - this was on a 2000 4.6 vogue (just in case there are any diffs.).
 

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Superlocked front door

Postby Jovinblak » Sun Mar 23, 2008 11:46 pm
the front passenger door (LH) appeared to superlock on the Autobiography a fortnight ago, been waiting for a replacement striker before cutting through the original one to open the door and remove the latch assembly, decided not to destroy the latch as per forum, though did buy numerous 1mtr lengths of various sizes and profiles of steel from B&Q for that purpose and decided to use the rear door off method, but found it unnecessary to actually remove the door, so protecting the paintwork with 1/2 a dozen layers of Duct/Gaffer tape wrapped around the edge of the front door and on the face of the rear door at the point of the striker extending down to the plastic trim in case of any mishaps, I used a 12" hacksaw blade in a holder and sawed though the nearest stem of the staple, then after a cuppa, sawed though the other, obviously carefully so as not to cut through the tape, each bit of damage was covered with another layer, the end of the saw blade was also covered with tape when cutting through the 2nd stem, finally the door swung open and I removed the card and latch with no damage to paintwork at all, I'm glad I didn't destroy the latch, because the reason it was 'superlocked' was simply the end of a small, but very important (and flimsy) nylon lever had broken off, unfortunately the case and all relevant internal gubbings are handed and all my spare latches are of the opposite hand, so will have to order new latch from dealer after the Holiday, still this does give me a spare motor for the next failure as these are not handed and fit L&R&Rr.
so it seems sawing through the striker is the easiest way to open a superlocked front door, the back door must be open of course in order to cut the striker. By the way I used a 1/2" eclipse blade with 22TPI and found reversing the blade to cut on the pulling stroke rather than the pushing stroke was more effective and cut through quicker.
Cheers John
 

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Hi to all, Glad to see that I put you in the right direction, but taking off the back door is realy no hassel at all 10 minutes tops, in answer to the other post taking off the waist seal without removing the screw yes you can it's plastic you can remove all the trim on the car without removing any screws but you'd have a job refitting it, question, does the waist seal still sit back against the rear of the door the way it used to???? also what shape was the door lock in when removed ??? and was there any damage the the door ???? when you answer this please be honest as others would like to know. in the dia. it's part 11 and 12 the screw that holds the waist seal.
Best Regards sillyboy
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Hi
I looked for your post on how to open the latch but couldn't find it. Can you please send a link. There are several options of forcing this door open but I want to make sure I take the least destructive one. Any one else had better luck with going through the panel inside? Pictures and details would be most appreciated.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My front passenger door has been that way for years. My problem seems to be a little different from anyone else's posts I've read. Here's my dilemma: About every 10 or so times that I lock the vehicle (not double/superlock but merely pressing the lock button on remote once) my passenger front door will not unlock the next time I either press unlock on remote or use key in driver's door. So, for 10+ years I tell myself every time it happens that I need to replace it but since it is not my only source of trans I usually don't have anyone in it. Anyway, when it first occurred, I rolled down the window and reached in while standing outside the passenger door with my right hand I began moving the lock latch on top rear of the door card while up and down as fast as I could. Meanwhile, I had my left hand on the outside door handle pulling and pushing as fast as I could. Sometimes it takes up to a minute or so and sometimes only a few times and the lock becomes free and then opens straight away by using either the inside or outside latches. I assume that since my problem is similar to other posts that the problem is probably in the lock mechanism as others but since the issue is a little different I wanted to see if anyone else either had the same problem too or if it could be a different problem area all together. Thanks
 
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