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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
I disconnected the battery to perform a current drain test, and have identified the Sat Nav computer drawing between 1.7A and 2.4A. This is now disconnected, and off to Bucharest, this week.
Of course, on reconnecting the battery, I got the "windows not set" messages. It was a simple matter, to clear these for both right windows, but whilst the left windows would motor down, they would not power back up. The rear one did eventually raise, using the door switch.
I believe that the problem is in the centre console switch pack, since both left switches 'click' to lower the windows, but feel 'limp' when I attempt to raise them. In the meantime, to render the vehicle usable, I have stripped the LF door, to power the lift motor directly.
I think I have identified the correct connections - Black, negative (earth), Slate, +12v (lower) and Slate/ white, +12v (raise), however this has not achieved anything. What is the function of the three yellow leads - limit switches? or feedback to the BeCM?
I can hear the door outstation 'click', when I select lower, but not when I choose raise, hence I suspect the switchpack. Why are individual switches not available ??
Clearly, I need to service / replace the switchpack, but in the interim, is there any way to provide power to the lift motor to raise the window, so I can remove the plastic rain protection, I have taped in place, and so that I can drive the vehicle.
From a semi-lowered situation, earlier this week, I managed to raise this window using 'superlocking' on the remote fob, but this will not work, now
I hesitate to cycle the sunroof, in case that will not close again, and I can't get the car under cover, at the moment.
I would be grateful for any insight.
 

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Individual switches are not available because the switches are not separate.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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135 Posts
The center console switch pack can be cleaned and reflowed. Under the cover of the individual rocker switch for each window, there is a very simple plastic piece with a spring. You can remove the entire switch pack and take it to a bench or kitchen table. Using alcohol and a q-tip or electronics cleaner, clean the contacts. Next, if you are comfortable with a fine point soldering iron, heat each of the soldering points. You may get lucky and fix your problems. It worked for me.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the switch is feeling limp, then chances are the little circular springy disc which is used as the switch to make contact has failed and now not making proper contact. Or maybe you will be lucky and find it's just some crud in the way of the switch mechanism, or a dry solder joint.

Quickest way to get the window up? Disconnect the motor, and swap the Grey/White and Grey/Green wires over in the connector that goes into the motor. Then press 'Down' on the switchpack, and watch as the window goes up.

Disconnect and then swap the wires back so it doesn't mess your life up again later!

If you swap the switch pack I'm interested in the dead one, as I've got a couple I want to look at trying out a couple of ways of fixing them.. but obviously need some dead ones as guinea pigs!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you for that advice. I have read, on another forum, I think, about resoldering dry joints.
I think your suggestion, of investigating the contacts under each rocker, will be my next step. I have had some success, in the past with similar switches, when I could find the tiny springs which often fly out, if you don't take steps to contain them.

Many thanks,
Chris
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
Hello, again, Marty,

You can see that I still haven't resolved all the outstanding problems, despite having owned the car for two months, now.
What a brilliant suggestion, to swap the 'down' for the 'up' connections - magic !!
I will try that first, and then, with the car secure, and usable again, I will dismantle the switchpack, and see if it may be, cleaned / repaired.

Thanks again, for this insight.
Chris
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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This is a typical failure in the BECM..
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
This is a typical failure in the BECM..
Thank you, Scotty, for that cheerful thought.
I have dismantled one of the faulty switches, but it seems impossible to clean. The contacts seem to be made of foil.
There is no way to test this multifunction switch panel - 4 windows up/down, the sunroof open/close/tilt, and the 2 mirrors up/down/left/right - which communicates with the BeCM, through just six 'pins' !!
I am tempted to buy a second-hand switchpack, but if it is the BeCM at fault, that will be futile.
Replacing the BeCM, can cause vehicle identity problems - locking etc. I believe.
Why did they make the wretched thing so complicated ?

Chris
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Somewhere I wrote out which pins do what on the controller chip on the switchpack. In theory you could just ground the pin for each window up/down to effectively bypass the switch for each part to test.

If it is a BECM fault, then almost certainly on the power board which can be swapped independently of the logic board which holds vehicle information. I think I have a few working power boards lying around under my work bench.

Worst case scenario, and there is an issue on the logic board.. They are repairable these days, or if you have the kit (as I do) then you can clone a damaged BECM onto a know working one and you end up with a working vehicle again, with the correct identity.

Marty
 

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I stripped my switchpack yesterday after my rear window refused to close. Not too bad to do. The switches are a pressed steel part on the board and on my Bosch P38 are held in place over the pads on the board by a sheet of transparent self adhesive tape. After lifting the tape I removed the two contacts which were slightly blackened where they contact the pads on the board. After cleaning off and reassembly it worked fine. Took some pix which I will post when I can figure out how to as this is my first post!
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Very interesting to know...

I haven't dug that far into one to be honest - I've got as far as the clear tape, but haven't had the time to fully dissect one yet to see if you could get any more apart... I figured that the metal tab was somehow fixed to the board, so removing it would be a case of breaking something off - and possibly not being able to replace it... But if it comes off easily with the clear tape removed, then I might dig out one of the faulty ones I have here later and a scalpel and attack the clear tape!

Pictures can be uploaded by pressing the 'Image) button in the menu bar of the reply window.
Once you've clicked on that, you can then select to upload an image from your computer, or from the web. There are file size restrictions, so if I've got images off my phone or camera (which are a few MB in size) I run them through an image program to resize them to 1024 pixels across (at whatever the aspect ratio is) and then re-saved as a .jpg to upload. This seems to allow a decent enough size picture so you can see everything in the image, but that still fits in the file size constraints of the forum.

Hope this helps,
Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #12
Gentlemen, thank you all, for your helpful advice,

I did manage to prise the cover, and then the switch rocker - very gently - from the two offending switches. The contacts appear to be foil, and impossible to 'get between'. However, I squirted in some switch cleaner, temporarily reconnected the switchpack, and tested each switch - with the window motor disconnected, in case of failure - and could hear the relay clicking, both ways, in the door outstation! I also 'relieved' the back edge of each rocker, to give it a bit more 'throw'.
I replaced the rockers, covers, and re-installed the switchpack, rebuilt the door connections, and trim, and the whole thing is working perfectly, for just the cost of a few hours work, in the bitter cold.
Marty's advice about the distinct parts of the BeCM, was useful, but not, on this occasion, necessary - thank you.
This is my second thread, in only 8 weeks ownership of the car, and both problems have satisfactorily been solved.
Incidentally, for those who followed the Sat Nav saga, the bloke in Bucharest, to whom I have sent the computer for investigation, reports that someone has fitted an 'L322 computer' in my P38. How difficult would it be to install an L322 screen, in my P38, and are all the other components compatible? TV would be nice!

I thought we might close this thread, having cured the window problem, but maybe I have opened up another can of worms?

Best wishes, Chris
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Glad that one is all sorted!

The Sat Nav - I briefly considered trying to install the L322 screen and everything into my one as my MKIII Drive was faulty - and I acquired a L322 MKIII drive to see if I could get it working. When I looked into what would be required to get the L322 drive/screen in and to work I decided it wasn't worth the effort (especially as my DSP amp was MIA) as the TV unit in the L322 is integrated a lot more into the other vehicle electronics - radio and the likes - so don't think it would be a simple case of just putting the screen in.

The P38 nav and radio are 2 separate units, with the nav only using the mute line into the DSP amp and audio lines to play the sounds through the vehicle speakers, however the L322 system looks to be a far more integrated 'infotainment' system between the radio and the navigation unit.

My 0.02 on that one!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #14
Thank you, Marty.

I have discovered exactly what you point out - that the L332 system is far more integrated, and almost impossible to retrofit, to a P38.

The chap in Bucharest has repaired my 'L322' nav computer, which worked, after a fashion, in the P38 - with not all functions available.
I may see if I can source a reasonably priced Mk3 computer, but, in the interim, I will refit the newer unit, which at least, knows where it is, brings up maps, and directions, and gets me from A to B, albeit rather clumsily.

I did not follow your 0.02 - sorry!
Chris
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hopefully he has fixed the issue with the power drain in any case...

My 0.02 was just on the fact that I didn't think it was worth trying to install the L322 infotainment system into a P38, just due to how much more integrated it is than the P38 system.

The MKIII P38 units come up on eBay and the likes on odd occasion, so keep an eye out there and you might get lucky with one of them!

Marty
 
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