I'll reference another post 1st and put in my $0.02 FWIW.In spite of the poor spelling, his question is still relevant: is the issue really slipping crush sleeves as Travisch suggests . Seems easier to pound these back in place than replace the bushings. Goose, RRT, Umberto: thoughts?
I'm only going on my memory here as it was 40K miles ago that I even looked at these, but if it did, it was an aluminum-looking lock on the inside of each bushing--or perhaps that was my other car--I get so confused sometimes 8~. Put another way, I don't recall seeing 4 of them that looked as robust like the ones in that picture and it was not something that I considered pounding back in toward the bushing since it looked pretty firmly attached to the bar. So I'm thinking either something changed over the years, or the DR is different?Ah, so the "lateral locks" or whatnot are only on the DR equipped version?
You are replacing too much at once here. After the frame bushings, I would do the sway bar end links. If it still clunks then the LCA--replace both sides. These are a PITA sometimes to get off (UCA is easier) but its far more likely that the LCA is bad than the UCA. You will need an alignment after the LCA. If you have the clunk after this then you move onto the UCA. The UCA does not need an alignment afterwards if they do not touch the LCA. I wouldn't worry about the rear LCAs.So I have been looking for the cheapest prices... This is what I found... Upper front control arms for both 300$.... Right & left lower control arms 550$ for both... Lateral control arm 39$..
Rear lower control arms both sides 500$... Upper rear control arms 300$ for both..... Front swaybar link 60$ for both...rear with stability control both sides 60$... Witch is a Grand total of 1870$!!!!!!!!!!:crybaby2:... I would love to know if anyone has got it done for cheaper seeing as how hats not Evan including labour.... Also I would like to know if there any parts that I'm missing that I should add to this list? Thanks for everyone's help
Worn bushings due to excessive understeer as the result of driving too fast on snowy and slippery roads.I would like to quickly chime in here. My car was just taken in this morning for clunking that has become worse and worse. (Monday, Jan 14th.) This is a 2010 SC with Dynamic Response. I realize the clunk is not uncommon as our trucks age. I am able to hear it when turning the wheel back and forth quickly while moving and easily over sharper bumps and road cracks. I'll post back when they find out what mine was. It has 39,000 miles.