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Project RRSC, this is exactly what I had them do to mine about 4 months ago, and it did fix the problem. I don't know if the bushings are the same front and rear. The labor is insane for this work, but luckily I had the extended warranty to cover it. I don't think I would have had the dealer do the work otherwise. Replacing the bushings should fix the clunking noise though.
 

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The fix to the Sport front end clunk/rattle is very simple and you should question the integrity & technical skill of any dealers who cannot identify or fix this or who charge for replacing ball joints, bushings or steering shafts.
The noise comes from the sway bar and the problem isn't the bushings. The problem is the crush sleeves (qty 4) located on each side of the bushing. What happens is over time this crush sleeve slips and moves away from the sway bar bushing. This allows the sway bar to start moving side to side gradually getting worse. Mine sounded like the whole front end was about to fall off.
To fix you tap these back up against the sway bar bushing ensuring there is no side to side play on the sway bar then put a small tack weld on each fusing it to the sway bar which prevents future slippage. Took me longer to remove the skid plate then it did to fix this. image.jpg
 

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Wow. So surprised this is still going.
Anyways I'm going Tuesday to pick up my 2006 rrs supercharged with 34000 miles. I'm drive about 300 miles to pick it up. The owner told me that when I'm driving it that I will notice this clunk noise that he described exactly what this thread says.

He told me its normal bla bla bla.

Some when I pick the car up I am going to check there crush leaves. I'm guessing they need to be slid to the outside of the axles?

Thanks
Dan
 

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In spite of the poor spelling, his question is still relevant: is the issue really slipping crush sleeves as Travisch suggests . Seems easier to pound these back in place than replace the bushings. Goose, RRT, Umberto: thoughts?
 

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In spite of the poor spelling, his question is still relevant: is the issue really slipping crush sleeves as Travisch suggests . Seems easier to pound these back in place than replace the bushings. Goose, RRT, Umberto: thoughts?
I'll reference another post 1st and put in my $0.02 FWIW.

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/9-range-rover-sport-l320/38679-lateral-movement-swaybar-causing-clunk-bumps.html

I should mention I have no experience with the DR equipped version as mine is just a plain old HSE, so I'm just guessing on some stuff here and I'm open to anybody who wants to educate me on this.

So basically every swaybar slides a bit side to side within the frame bushing. Depending on the design of the bar, the endlinks do a pretty good job of keeping it to a minimum. If you are a street racer rat, you can buy fancy lateral locks (see below) that prevent any sliding. I have no idea if they do anything.


whiteline_sway_bar_lateral_locks_installed.jpg

So looking at Travisch's post what he is describing (I think, because I don't have them) are more like lateral locks on the DR swaybar and not crush sleeves. I can only guess they are there to prevent the DR swaybar from excessive movement when its disconnected. Perhaps this is a source of clunk in the DR? I don't know. All I know is that after about 40-50K, if you pull off the old bushing you will see the hole is bigger than the new bushing. Replace with new bushing and the clunk (if its coming from the bushing) stops.

I will also add that I would not pound the lateral locks in tight and tack weld them unless I knew a bit more about what kind of movement might be needed in the disconnectable sway mechanism. But perhaps its fine and that's the way they are supposed to be, I just don't know.
 

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Ah, so the "lateral locks" or whatnot are only on the DR equipped version?
I'm only going on my memory here as it was 40K miles ago that I even looked at these, but if it did, it was an aluminum-looking lock on the inside of each bushing--or perhaps that was my other car--I get so confused sometimes 8~. Put another way, I don't recall seeing 4 of them that looked as robust like the ones in that picture and it was not something that I considered pounding back in toward the bushing since it looked pretty firmly attached to the bar. So I'm thinking either something changed over the years, or the DR is different?
 

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Does this Crush Sleeves thing apply to the post 2010 vehicles too, SC specifically?

My 2006SC had wobbly front suspension after a while which made the 2010SC feel really tight when i updated (as new). Now the 2010 is just as wobbly. Feels like the left front wheel is about to fall off when going over expansion joints or bumps. Holes moreso than bumps though.
 

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Sounds like a ball joint (lower control arm) issue.
 

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So I have been looking for the cheapest prices... This is what I found... Upper front control arms for both 300$.... Right & left lower control arms 550$ for both... Lateral control arm 39$..
Rear lower control arms both sides 500$... Upper rear control arms 300$ for both..... Front swaybar link 60$ for both...rear with stability control both sides 60$... Witch is a Grand total of 1870$!!!!!!!!!!:crybaby2:... I would love to know if anyone has got it done for cheaper seeing as how hats not Evan including labour.... Also I would like to know if there any parts that I'm missing that I should add to this list? Thanks for everyone's help
 

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So I have been looking for the cheapest prices... This is what I found... Upper front control arms for both 300$.... Right & left lower control arms 550$ for both... Lateral control arm 39$..
Rear lower control arms both sides 500$... Upper rear control arms 300$ for both..... Front swaybar link 60$ for both...rear with stability control both sides 60$... Witch is a Grand total of 1870$!!!!!!!!!!:crybaby2:... I would love to know if anyone has got it done for cheaper seeing as how hats not Evan including labour.... Also I would like to know if there any parts that I'm missing that I should add to this list? Thanks for everyone's help
You are replacing too much at once here. After the frame bushings, I would do the sway bar end links. If it still clunks then the LCA--replace both sides. These are a PITA sometimes to get off (UCA is easier) but its far more likely that the LCA is bad than the UCA. You will need an alignment after the LCA. If you have the clunk after this then you move onto the UCA. The UCA does not need an alignment afterwards if they do not touch the LCA. I wouldn't worry about the rear LCAs.

The wild card in all this are steering tie rods (inner+ outer)--they can also go bad sometimes and clunk or make a snapping noise esp when turning full lock from a stop, but they are usually easy to diagnose under the car when they get loose. Again these will need an alignment as they determine toe.
 

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I would like to quickly chime in here. My car was just taken in this morning for clunking that has become worse and worse. (Monday, Jan 14th.) This is a 2010 SC with Dynamic Response. I realize the clunk is not uncommon as our trucks age. I am able to hear it when turning the wheel back and forth quickly while moving and easily over sharper bumps and road cracks. I'll post back when they find out what mine was. It has 39,000 miles.
 

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I would like to quickly chime in here. My car was just taken in this morning for clunking that has become worse and worse. (Monday, Jan 14th.) This is a 2010 SC with Dynamic Response. I realize the clunk is not uncommon as our trucks age. I am able to hear it when turning the wheel back and forth quickly while moving and easily over sharper bumps and road cracks. I'll post back when they find out what mine was. It has 39,000 miles.
Worn bushings due to excessive understeer as the result of driving too fast on snowy and slippery roads. :)
 
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