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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2014 supercharged with 130k miles. I’m experiencing a clunking sound up front when going over bumps. I don’t think it’s the air struts because I seem to be maintaining my ride height and I had the lower control arms replaced about a year ago. What areas should I look at?
 

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There’s a couple threads on this. They point to a number of things. I have it too but don’t plan to have it looked at until end of year during inspection
 

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1995 p38a
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Front lower control arm bushings are either torn, or the bolts are loose. Or the balljoints are worn. Either way, replace the control arms.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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What about the tie rod ends? I have a little clunking sound coming from mine and upon grabbing and trying to move the tie rod ends around, they move and twist really, really easily. I've got some on order and am planning on replacing them, as that seemed like the most likely reason. They're really easy to find and check. Basically they're the forward-most "sticks" going into your wheel-suspension area.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm dropping it off an and independent shop and will report back.
 

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My l322s would need the control arms replaced often. A lot of weight on those. The l405 is a lot lighter in weight. I have a sound coming from mine that is different. It’s not a clunk, but rather sounds as though I dropped a socket somewhere in there and if I hit a really good bump, it clinks. Similar to if you tapped a muffler with a screw driver. Very funny sounding. Thoughts?
 

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I have this clunk too. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings and control arm bushings 2500 miles ago and the noise is there. Dealer said it could be a bad strut or a bad bar/bushings. I have left it alone.

Its been clunking for the last 50k miles/2-3 years. The clunk has remained the same.
 

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2010-2012 Range Rover Sport
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I have this clunk too. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings and control arm bushings 2500 miles ago and the noise is there. Dealer said it could be a bad strut or a bad bar/bushings. I have left it alone.

Its been clunking for the last 50k miles/2-3 years. The clunk has remained the same.
Sounds like your ball joints on your thrust arm or lower control arm, or both. I just replaced my thrust arms. When they came off the Bushings where torn and the ball joints had a good amount of play on them. Tt got rid of the clunks but i still have a light one when i at bumps at speed. So next stop lower control arms.
 

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Is there there an update?
I replaced tension struts on 2015 HSE with 60k not too long ago. There was no clunk, but the front was loose and floating. Ball joints were ok, but bushings were worn out. It did fix the floating. also, noticed that boots on both lower control arms were torn. Taped them up, but probably they won’t last for long.
another observation is that the front suspension of l405 is identical to BMW X5 with which I have much more experience. For x5 V8, by 100k, everything in the front suspension needed to be replaced to maintain quality of ride. The only original part left is the upper control arm.
For tension struts, the bimmer is already on the third set at 96k miles, therefore, I am expecting that the range will need these every 40-50k miles. I consider this part as consumable. As to clunking, the biggest culprit was the strut assembly...
 

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So these arm on both sides I can wiggle if I push/pull on them. Either jacked up or with the weight on th ground? That mean they are bad? The culprit for the clunk?

288160
 

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It could be the reason for clunking.In any case, if you can wiggle them easily, those bushings are gone and should be replaced.
 

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Hmm. But it neccisrily the culprit? I guessing that’s not a DIY job as you need a special tool to push out/press in new bearings
 

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It may or may not be the reason for clunking.
Those bushings are so large and to make them clunk is possible, but unlikely in my opinion. They have to be really worn out to clunk. Once removed I would look for signs of metal on metal contact between the bushing side of the control arm and the bracket.
This is a 7 out of 10 DIY job and it is more practical and easier to replace the entire control arm (2 bolts per side). The only reason it is 7 and not 5 because ball joints tend to get stuck and likely require a heavy hammer and in extreme cases a torch to get them loose.
The shop can replace just bushings...the press is needed for that, but overall cost will be comparable to DIY replacement of the entire control arms, if not more.
Regardless of the clunk, the replacement of these tension control arms should significantly improve the ride quality and might eliminate the clunk. In this type of suspension I would always start with this replacement...just my 2c
 
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