[isaixguevara1]

Here is a link to a video I have posted, recomendable to see that then let me know what I should do

So it all started with a rubbing noise sort of like a plastic rubbing with my tires. Like a siren when I let go of the gas pedal. It became clear after lifting the truck that the front differential or its bearings have gone bad. Now I have never worked on replacing these bearings so im automatically assuming it is much easier to get an entire replacement differential from the junkyard ($50) and send it with some RTV Gasket Sillicone. I am seeing a leak also coming from the transfer case so I’ll be taking off the cover that attaches to the driveshaft and transfer case and see what needs to get done so It wont leak out anymore. I really need your guys opinion as to anything else I should be made aware of. Thanks! Also what would be a cause of this to fail? is it regular wear and tear or is it my driving habits.

 

[isaixguevara1]

I uploaded a video to the noise I am experiencing. It only makes the noise when letting off the gas pedal and braking. Not accelerating.

Range Rover P38 Differential Making Noise?

Here is my P38 with a broken differential bearing. I plan on getting an entire replacement from the junkyard and replacing. Wish me luck, any advice in comme...

youtube.com

 

[isaixguevara1]

From the amount of slack you have in the nose bearing on the diff and the lack of oil dribbling out, I'd say you haven't got any in it! Rather than rebuild what you have, I'd just swap the diff, a simple enough job. The only difficult part will be getting the hubs out, an old brake disc fitted the wrong way round and a club hammer will do it. While the front propshaft is off, it is also easy enough to change the seal on the transfer case viscous coupling housing but that leak isn't bad at all. It isn't dropping down and dribbling off the exhaust.....

No gaskets required, diff and viscous coupling cover are both sealed with RTV.

Awesome! Thanks for your reply. It seems I always get help from you so I really appreciate your advice and input. I have 2 questions on your comment
1. Can you explain more what you mean about the hubs ? and how I could use the disk to pry it off?
2. Is there a specific Part number I can order for the transfer case seal? I was thinking there was only 6 bolts holding the transfer case part in place. vvvv (2 seen below)

I could just take the 6 bolts off from another junkyard vehicle and it should come right out as a whole replacement..(I think.) That was my plan at first. but if the seal is all it needs to stop the leak im guessing it’d be better off removing the flange to the driveshaft, the center 30mm bolt, and easy as popping the old seal out and replacing it with the new one?

 

[isaixguevara1]

To remove the diff you obviously have to remove the half shafts on both sides. To do that the hubs need to be pulled out at least far enough that they pull out of the diff. That involves pulling the ABS sensor out of its hole, removing the 4 bolts that hold the hub in place and the theory is that you then pull it out. However, as it has been there for the best part of 20 years simply pulling it out is unlikely to be successful. One way of doing it is to slacken the bolts and then hit the heads of the bolts to knock it out. That may work but the chances of catching the CV joint boot and splitting that is pretty high. The usual method is to put an old brake disc on back to front, bolt it up tight and bash it with a club hammer.

On the transfer case, if you just undo the 6 bolts the cover will come off with the output flange and viscous coupling. As the seal is behind the flange, you still won't be able to change the seal. The seal can be changed with just the flange taken off as it pushes in from outside. It's in RAVE, Section 41, Repair, Page 3.

Oh okay. So just to be on the safer side should I replace both of the half shafts? In case it breaks?

 

[isaixguevara1]

No, no need to replace the half shafts. They have splines on the end that slide into each side of the diff. Worse case you split the CV joint boots in which case al you will need is replacement rubber boots. Have a look at the procedure in RAVE, it's not difficult.

I never had a copy of RAVE trust me I wish I did I wouldve used it 75% of the time lol. But okay bet! Do tou know what part number for the transfer case seal and boots for half shafts??

 

[isaixguevara1]

The easiest option should be to replace the whole axle, I've done this before on a classic. Only thing is, the replacement axle may have problems such as worn wheel bearings etc. which you would only find out afterwards.

Ahhh. I see. Im up for it if its easier plus it’d be nice to have spare parts for the future. I wish there was a tutorial on it but im new to this

 

[isaixguevara1]

Go here Adobe - Download Adobe Acrobat Reader DC, download and install the reader (if you don't have it already), then download RAVE from https://rangerovers.pub/downloads/rave.zip. Unzip it (right click on it and follow the instructions), then double click the file called rave-lr.pdf. That's it. RAVE gives you step by step instructions for all jobs.

Awesome thank you for that. Hey I also did some digging and found these.
This is for the Boot itself

CV Boot Kit For Range Rover P38 (Part #STC3203) - Land Rover axles, cv joints & parts from Atlantic British

CV Boot Kit For Range Rover P38 (Part #STC3203), Land Rover driveline & axles and other axles, cv joints & parts online at RoverParts.com. Fits Range Rover 4.0 (P38),Range Rover 4.6 (P38). Atlantic British is North America's largest wholesale and retail part and accessory supplier for all models...

www.roverparts.com

and this is for the CV joint but I see it also has the boot included

CV Joint For Range Rover P38 (Part #STC3204) - Land Rover axles, cv joints & parts from Atlantic British

CV Joint For Range Rover P38 (Part #STC3204), Land Rover driveline & axles and other axles, cv joints & parts online at RoverParts.com. Fits Range Rover 4.0 (P38),Range Rover 4.6 (P38). Atlantic British is North America's largest wholesale and retail part and accessory supplier for all models of...

www.roverparts.com

Both cost $50, isnt it smarter to get the CV Joint with the boot included over just getting the boot? Is the part application the same or am I missing something??
Thanks!

 

[isaixguevara1]

Gotcha. I just like being on the safer side as its my only ride at the moment. Im hoping 2 days will be enough to remove half shafts and replace the diff from one from the junkyard. Wish me luck! I think Ive done good enough research. Will check out RAVE for any additional tools I may need like the pic you posted.

 

[isaixguevara1]

2 days? I did mine in about 3 hours......

Undo the propshaft bolts (9/16" AF), unscrewing the grease nipple will make getting at one of the bolts easier (7mm socket), drop the front of the propshaft off and tie it to one side so it is out of your way. Both wheels off, drain the axle oil, both front callipers off and tied up out of the way, brake calliper carriers off, ABS sensors pulled out. 4 bolts on the back of the hub out, bolt old brake disc on back to front and hit it with your club hammer to pull the hub out by 3 or 4 inches, rest it on the wheel you have already taken off so it isn't resting on the axle oil seal. Take the 2 bolts out that hold the harmonic balance weight on and remove that (makes the diff lighter). Undo the ring of nuts that hold the diff in and hit it with your club hammer again to break the RTV seal. Pull it out (or let it fall out). Clean up the old RTV from the face, put a thick bead of RTV on the new diff and put it in. Reassembly is the reverse of the above (except for needing the club hammer, you can't unhammer something back on....).

Thanks for this!! Ill try to do it as quick as possible considering I dont have a lift only a jack 2 stands and a ramp. Is there any way I can message you pictures of my progress in case if I get lost? Im a fast learner I just have trouble with directions sometimes. PM me?

 

[isaixguevara1]

If you have a large gear puller that is another option for removing the hubs.
The ABS sensors sometimes are stuck in place so firmly that you will destroy them to get them out so when you are at the wrecking yard for your diff you should try to get ABS sensors as well as that brake disc.

Will do! Thanks for the tip!

 

[isaixguevara1]

To remove the diff you obviously have to remove the half shafts on both sides. To do that the hubs need to be pulled out at least far enough that they pull out of the diff. That involves pulling the ABS sensor out of its hole, removing the 4 bolts that hold the hub in place and the theory is that you then pull it out. However, as it has been there for the best part of 20 years simply pulling it out is unlikely to be successful. One way of doing it is to slacken the bolts and then hit the heads of the bolts to knock it out. That may work but the chances of catching the CV joint boot and splitting that is pretty high. The usual method is to put an old brake disc on back to front, bolt it up tight and bash it with a club hammer.

On the transfer case, if you just undo the 6 bolts the cover will come off with the output flange and viscous coupling. As the seal is behind the flange, you still won't be able to change the seal. The seal can be changed with just the flange taken off as it pushes in from outside. It's in RAVE, Section 41, Repair, Page 3.

Upon thinking about it further I don't think you need to remove the ABS sensors since they are in the hub and you are pulling that whole assembly, including the axle, out a few inches. I just replaced a rear diff on my second 99 and I did not pull out any ABS sensors. Didn't even remove the calipers from the hubs however you will have to do that if fitting the used disc to be pounded on.

I see what you are saying.. Thanks for the tip!