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Discussion Starter #1
I am looking for info and/or advice on replacing the front crank seal (not the front cover gasket). I am trying to eliminate potential leaks and this is the next step.

My first question is tools...do I need the factory tools? It seems that if I put the RR in gear, the crankshaft will not turn and I should be able to break the bolt loose (good so far?). I assume that a large breaker bar will be necessary to break the bolt loose.

Next, do I need that same tool to remove the pulley or can I use a two-arm gear puller? Obvoiusly I do not want to destroy anything in the process.

Once I get the pulley off, the manual refers to one tool to remove the old seal and another tool to install the new one. The new seal has not arrived, so this may be obvious once I get the part. Again, I do not want to tear anything up.

Final question, can I just do as above and leave the RR in gear, use a large breaker bar, and put the 200lb-ft of torque on the bolt to reinstall?

I am sure that I am not the first to try this...As always, thanks for the help.


5,346 Posts
I'm trying to remember how I removed the crank pulley bolt when I put on my new timing case.

Did I remove the radiator and use a rattle gun? Or did I lock the breaker bar up against the chassis and hit the starter?

BTW, there is a revised seal for the front cover. It was introduced from VIN WA377414

Bulletin No: 0002
CDS. ref: L8356bu
Issue: 1 Date: 04.02.98
All V8 Range Rover - VINs prior to WA 377414
All V8 Discovery - VINs prior to VA 743702

CAUSE: Contamination of oil seal lip.
ACTION: Replace front cover oil seal with the new twin lip seal detailed in PARTS INFORMATION which provides increased protection from external dust and debris.

Refer to the Workshop Manual - Repairs - Crankshaft Front Pulley and Front Cover Oil Seal for the correct replacement procedure.

PARTS INFORMATION: Oil seal - Crankshaft:
Old Part No New Part No
ERR1632 ERR6490


1,322 Posts
I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley while I put a breaker bar on the nut and whacked it with a hammer....hard. I blocked the strap wrench up under anything I could with pieces of 2x4 wood to keep it from turning. Re-assembly was the same process, except I didn't use the hammer.

Removing the radiator isn't necessary, but it does give you a lot of room. Considering it's pretty easy to remove, you may want to consider it. Once the nut is off, the pulley will just pull right off. It has a groove on it, so it only goes back on one way.

The crankshaft seal can be pulled out using your fingers. The new seal can be pressed in using anything round and of similar diameter. It's not too hard to do.

I would recommend removing the whole front cover while you are in there. It not only makes replacing the seal easier, but you can eliminate any possible future leaks while you are at it. Heck, I would even replace the oil pressure switch seal and water pump gasket while you are in there....you have excellent access.
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