Front Brake replace on 06RRS 40k miles

You must always machine the rotors when replacing the brakes pads. If you don't you can get squeaks, vibrations, pedal pulse etc. Replacing the rotors needs to be done when they are no longer within specs, which can be determined by measuring them with a caliper when they are off for machining. Based on my experience they can be machined 2 or 3 times before needing to be replaced, assuming you don't get metal on metal and gouges before you change the pads.

On the HSE the LR stated wear limit is 27mm for the front. New ones are 30mm. For reference at 30K I was down to ~28.5mm.

The OEM rotor is a pretty beefy rotor, but I can see w the weight of this vehicle some possible warpage issues creeping up if they get too thin so I'm not sure how many machinings these can take. I just changed mine. The OEM front rotors are ~80ea in the aftermarket, but the labor component to do that part of the job is much more so you don't want to have to go back and do that before the new pads are worn down.

Technically, if you are shy of the wear limit, you could just replace the pads if the discs are not too scored---you won't be flying through stop signs or anything, but its your call...

Thanks Goosey; that sounds more along the lines of what she said. However she insisted that they don't recommend machining the rotors but replacing them instead. She mentioned that I was nowhere near the wear limit.

Thanks man.

Take the money and run. Usually the story we hear on the forum is the opposite: Dealers want to replace discs like underwear, while indy shops are those that more sensibly offer to turn them over for a lot less dough, if they are thick enough. :wink:

Even w pads only, $199 sounds like a good price from the dealer. Just be prepared for a new wear sensor ($30-ish), but I'm not sure what the dealer charges to replace that feat of engineering ineptitude.

The SA at the dealer seems pretty sensible when it comes to me having to spend money on stuff like that. I think they're trying to stay competitive with the independent shops and seem pretty serious about customer retention. I found a similar attitude from their MB dealership where I service my other cars.

thanks to all

Sharing experience on the machining front here - I had my front rotors machined once about 6 months ago, and even though they came back with enough mm left to stay in spec, they started to produce a noticeable shimmy when braking almost immediately, so I've just replaced them now to install new front rotors - NO SHIMMY!.

I'll have to try another set next time around, but based on this one time experience, I can't see how they can be machined 2 or 3 times and still stay in spec AND more importantly stay true - without producing an annoying wobble under braking conditions.

The original rotors are composite rotors to reduce weight. I believe this could be the issue with warping and the amount your can turn\resurface the rotor . Has anyone put any other rotor on like brembo's or ....?

Thanks,
T

Frisco_TX_RRS said:

The original rotors are composite rotors to reduce weight. I believe this could be the issue with warping and the amount your can turn\resurface the rotor . Has anyone put any other rotor on like brembo's or ....?

Thanks,
T

Click to expand...

Frisco, you mean like aluminum/iron composite?

I just ask 'cause the OEM ones I got (made in Poland) looked and felt (weightwise) like they were plain grey cast iron.

Gooseyloosey - yes. When I 1st took off my rotors to be turned last year, you could see the 2 different metal plates together, which makes it harder to turn. The brake shop said the same thing. As we know LR is very weight conscious and try to lessen the weight where ever they can Or may be reduce wheel vibration ...hmmmmm