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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok so i,ve got to bite the bullet and replace my front ball joints.i have read a fair bit of info about this but i,m not too sure about replacing the oil seals.Some say you need to centralize the oil seal with a tool others say it will be ok if you dont move the adjuster nut.Living in Spain i doubt i would be able to get a tool for this,has anyone got any useful help before i start this job thanks.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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373 Posts
i did mine without the "tool" i just used a socket and a hammer to put the seal in place. do you have the press for doing the joints?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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87 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i did mine without the "tool" i just used a socket and a hammer to put the seal in place. do you have the press for doing the joints?
thanks for the reply.i have a friend that has a car repair shop so i can use his press to push out the old joints.how long ago did you replace your oil seal,because i read that if they were not central they would get chewed up .
 

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As long as you don't move the position of the adjustment nut when removing the hub carrier you should be fine.

I reused the oil seals and was careful on removing/refitting the half shafts not to damage them.

Its not a job for the faint-hearted, I also got new LR bolts/nuts for almost everything that came undone, and before I refitted anything cleaned up a lot of surface rust with a angle grinder & wirecup brush and hammerite'd it.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,227 Posts
I did my ball joints on the weekend just gone.

As others have said - if you don't touch the taper collet on the bottom of the swivel hub, then you don't need the tool to reset the height.

When I first had my hubs apart a few years ago, I replaced the oil seals then - I don't even recall needing a socket/hammer to remove/refit the seals. They still looked in pretty good condition when I had it all apart the other day too.

Be aware, the top ball joint needs to press out first - and then use the bore on the top of the axle to be able to press the bottom joint out. and then reverse for refitting - press bottom joint in, and then press top one in afterwards.

According to RAVE you can only replace the joints 3 times before the bores are out of spec. So that being said, don't waste money on cheap Britpart ball joints - spend the extra money on the OEM Lemforder ones - to save you having to use up one of your replacements on having to do them again in 6 months time!

I also bought new nuts for all 4 of the ball joints, as I figured the ones coming off would be in a pretty bad state (they were!)

One other thought on the oil seals... the newer design is more flexible too and allows for the drive shaft to be a tiny bit out of alignment, so don't think they get chewed up as much as the original design did. (which as far as I know didn't have any flexibility in them for the drive shaft to be out)

Marty
 
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