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Two ways of doing it. Get a normal tapered centre punch, grind it down to a chisel shape and hammer it in to lift the staked part out. Don't try to lever it as the centre punch, being hardened steel (or at least it should be), will break off leaving you with an even bigger problem. Other way, assuming you have a replacement nut, is to drill down the groove so you remove the staked section. Surprised you've not come across this method of locking before as virtually all cars, or European ones anyway, use the same method.
 

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That nut is staked in more so than I'm used to seeing. I would work the gap with a small screwdriver, then once you have a decent clearance use a needle nose plier. The metal that the axle nut is made out of is quite stout. The stake won't bend back that easily. When I worked on mine, I destroyed the plier in the process, so should warn you about that. If you're going to remove the nut, I think you'll have a hard time with all that rust. I had absolutely no rust on mine, but still took forever to remove with a pneumatic impact driver.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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You need a (fairly substantial) centre punch with the end ground about the size and shape of a pencil. Use it with a 2lb hammer.
Get the point of the chisel under the stake and give it a few heavy blows. The metal used for the nut is soft so it is an easy job to knock the stake out.
Don't worry about damaging the nut, you need a new one anyway. Just make sure you don't damage the thread on the stub axle. Even if you, a new CV joint is cheap and comes with the stub axle attached.
Wire brush the thread and soak it with penetrating oil. Then use a breaker bar to get the nut started. I think it is 32mm from memory.
Ideally use a 3/4" drive socket and breaker bar or even a 3/4" torque wrench if you have one. If you only have 1/2" drive stuff you may need to use a length of pipe as well.
Fit a new nut and tighten it as per the book to the correct torque setting.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
I apologize and tyvm. Yeah staked is new to me I deal with the typical Chevy and fords with the cotter pin. Broke the screwdriver so I drilled the stake soaked in pb blaster wire brushed it torched it a bit breaker bar with extension pipe. Me @185 with about 4 ft pipe jumping to break the nut a bit didn’t go so well lol. It’ll give eventually, just gonna take awhile. Again tyvm
 

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A screwdriver is for driving screws not to be used as a punch. The 4ft pipe is where you are going wrong, I use a 6 ft one, preferably scaffold pole so it doesn't bend......
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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My version of the scaffold pole breaker bar has the pole welded about half way along a 3/4 drive extension shaft. An axle stand under the shaft opposite the socket drive makes a much more solid base for heaving. Can't tilt down and off. Breaker was first made to haul the nut of a Lancia Beta front stub axle, from memory book tightness was well over 200 ft lb. Its almost scary how much the extension twists under load.

Clive
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
The driver side finally gave way maybe 20 minutes after my last post. Buddy came over with his 3/4” drive my ass wasn’t heavy enough to break it but his was lol. Now the passenger side complete different story. 1st and 2nd pic is what the driver side looks like. Garbage!!! 3rd pic I’m still going threw it. That had about 5ft with extension bar on handle. Need a longer bar and will do with the ext on the jack hopefully that will be enough to break. And buy my buddy a new 3/4 ratchet.
 

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You don’t need the bar through the wheel studs, just stick a screwdriver down the disc, and rest against the caliper.
id be tempted to warm the nut up if it’s that tight, I use a 3/4 breaker bar, never had one that hasn’t come undone yet.
i take it your doing Balljoints ?
 

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I bought a used Teng 3/4" torque wrench on Ebay. It is about 5ft long and very substantially made. Used for commercial vehicles. An engineering company was selling them off after the calibration certificate expired. Only cost about £30 t0 £40 from memory. If I apply 100 lbs at 5ft radius, that is 500 ft lbs! I use it for undoing nuts as well as tightening them up. Tightest nut I have come across is the crankshaft nut on my diesel. I had to swing on it.
 

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You don't need to take the "dent" out completely of the nut, put some force on it and she'll come off.

I took a 40mm pipe off about 75cm long, welded a socket on one end, and a piece of that pipe on the other side of the socket, so you can support it with a jack, in this way you never put all the force on an angle on the socket, and tighten or loosen it goes a hell of a lot easier.

socket.jpg jack.jpg
 
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