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Discussion Starter #1
Ive just added another Rover to the stable, My wife LOVES my 04 FFRR and has just about taken it away from me so enough is enough. Yesterday we purchased a 2008 RR sport Supercharged, 83K, one owner dealer maintained, with records. man we are going to be fighting over that thing. Now to my question, on our way home we noticed a faint hi pitch noise, it kind of reminded me of the same drive train noise that a school bus makes, it would only do this while the pedal was pressed, if you let off it stopped, my wife said it sounded like it was coming from behind her, (I cant hear too well I guess its all that 80's hair band music)wasn't loud just annoying, is this normal for the sport? I was thinking about replacing ALL of the fluids, I know rover has a special diff fluid but how many have used Mobile or royal purple etc in there electronic rear diff for an extended period of time and have you seen any improvements/problems? I run Mobile1 full syn in my 04 RR. Do you guys think it will help any or is this a sign of a pinion or wheel bearing going out? what do I need to look for while under the truck besides fluid level in the diff? is there any way to check the play? how hard is it to pull the rear diff in these rigs. Im an old school shade tree mechanic but these new fangled electromagnetic flux capacitor rear diffs are a little intimidating, but if it needs any work Im going to be the one working on it, I figure hell, I can learn how to repair it myself and if I screw the thing up once or twice I will still be way ahead of what the LR dealer would want to charge. Also the front suspension creeks, sounds like front right but Ive read hundreds of posts about squeeking/creeking front suspension, I think Ill get some silicon spray and lube it up.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Welcome to L320land. I would bring this up with the seller and see if there is something you can do first. That said, the diffs are a bit of a weak spot on these cars, and if the sound goes away when you let off the accel, its likely not a wheel bearing. The diff uses 75w-90 oil. If it's your pinion bearing (and that seems to be the weak spot in the weak spot), an oil change won't do anything, but since you live in a relatively warmer climate, you could perhaps try a heavier weight synthetic on the chance that its the ring and pinion being noisy. If its your pinion bearing, there seems to be a general lack of rebuild shops working on this diff, but you may have better luck where you are. A reman'd non-locker will run you about $1,000-$1,100 depending on where you source it--the locker is $250 more. Good luck and let us know how you make out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ill change to fluid first and see if it helps, it is a faint sound maybe its just a noisy pinion, but just in case it isnt can you tell me where I can get the re-maned diff? the prices you have don't seem that bad. How difficult is the removal/reinstall? any pitfalls or problem areas of concern (do's-dont's)?
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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http://www.roverlandparts.com/range-rover-rear-differentials_1.aspx


MiamiBritish also has them occasionally. The prices have changed a little bit since the last I looked. I've never changed my own so I can't be of any help there--dealership did mine. Perhaps try checking the various LR3 forums UK, US to see if there are any how-to's on a diff change. Topix as well but the Topix instructions always tend to be a bit vague.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
FIXED IT, the I used about a quart and a half of royal purple 75w 140 and the noise has gone away but I now I can hear what sounds like either the front diff or the transfer case making a low racket, Ill change the front diff tomorrow and the transfer case as soon as the hi priced land rover crap comes in. I may just put royal purple in the transfer case also.

http://www.roverlandparts.com/range-rover-rear-differentials_1.aspx


MiamiBritish also has them occasionally. The prices have changed a little bit since the last I looked. I've never changed my own so I can't be of any help there--dealership did mine. Perhaps try checking the various LR3 forums UK, US to see if there are any how-to's on a diff change. Topix as well but the Topix instructions always tend to be a bit vague.
 

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Also the front suspension creeks, sounds like front right but Ive read hundreds of posts about squeeking/creeking front suspension, I think Ill get some silicon spray and lube it up.
I think if its only creeking - then it's only the sway bar bushings. Not too hard to do.

I'm not sure what fluid goes into the xfer case. I know it's a 75 weight, that why I've stuck to the LR stuff. Pretty much all my other gear fluids, including transmission is Redline.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think if its only creeking - then it's only the sway bar bushings. Not too hard to do.

I'm not sure what fluid goes into the xfer case. I know it's a 75 weight, that why I've stuck to the LR stuff. Pretty much all my other gear fluids, including transmission is Redline.
I checked the records ad the previous owner just had the bushings changed last year and it does not have 5K since the change.
That redline it some good stuff, I use the light blue gear oil in my Cannondale ATV's. It use to be easy to find but my hotrod shop closed so I have to look for alternatives, royal purple and Mobile1 are the only other high quality alternative.
 

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I checked the records ad the previous owner just had the bushings changed last year and it does not have 5K since the change.
That redline it some good stuff, I use the light blue gear oil in my Cannondale ATV's. It use to be easy to find but my hotrod shop closed so I have to look for alternatives, royal purple and Mobile1 are the only other high quality alternative.
Interesting - i changed my bushings and 1 went bad within a few 1000 miles, i believe it was due to my only offf-road trip, nevertheless..pretty quick in my opinion .

Redline is available for sale from their site and certain grades on amazon as well ... Being that the RRS diff's are temperamental, and redline is pretty cheap compared to the LR fluids, changing my diff fluids very 20k/every oil change. Might be overkill, but few bucks and extra 30 min in my opinion is worth it.
 

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Do you have a locking rear diff? I didn't bother to check, but if the RP doesn't have a friction modifier in it, that could be the noise you're hearing now.

I would just use the same stuff in the front as well, but go factory with the t-case(although I have started using a new-ish fluid from BG that seems to be working well in these t-cases)

Also, the differentials are not fill to level, it's a measured amount that goes in. If you fill it to even with the fill hole, it will be slightly overfull, which can cause aeration of the fluid, and even more wear to the bearings and gears.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Uh Oh! I missed that one, cause I filled her to the fill hole, I guess I need to let some out, how much goes in each diff?
 

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Rear non-locking takes 1.1 liters, locking takes 1.5 liters (1.16 and 1.6 qts, respectively) If locking, be sure the fluid either has a friction modifier in it, or add one to it, with the ratio stated on the additive.

Front takes 0.6 L (0.65 qts)

T-case is fill to level.
 

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Search and ye shall find:thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I checked the royal puple does have a friction modifier in it. also I think I added the correct amount of fluid because I have half a quart left after doing the rear. Now Im off to get another bottle of RP 75w140 for the front.
Rear non-locking takes 1.1 liters, locking takes 1.5 liters (1.16 and 1.6 qts, respectively) If locking, be sure the fluid either has a friction modifier in it, or add one to it, with the ratio stated on the additive.

Front takes 0.6 L (0.65 qts)

T-case is fill to level.
 

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Yeah, it's not a dramatic difference between correct amount and to the plug, equates to about a half inch of fluid level in the diff. But with noise being the issue, I personally wouldn't want anything that I did to have a possible negative effect.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hey Dave, which BG fluid do you use in the Rover sport? Universal synthetic?
 

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I've used the BG Synchroshift a few times. It seems a little thicker then the factory fluid, but I have been assured by the BG guy, who I trust, that it meets all specs. So far no complaints, however, I have very limited results with this, and can not fully recommend it yet.

It is currently in a few customer's vehicles(they knew it was a try it out situation) and my boss's vehicle. I will keep the board informed if I do start to like this in there, or not.

I personally think the universal synthetic is a better match, but on the mysterious Shell data sheets that I have never been able to find, the Synchroshift is a better fit.

My recommendation is to use the factory stuff, it's not too absurdly priced, and you only need a couple quarts every few years.
 

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How did that royal purple 75w 140 work out for you in the longer run, any negative effects and are you still using it or did you fix the noisy pinion bearing?
 
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