[upboardin]

Im pretty sure that my flex plate is in need of replacing. I am hearing a knock from the bell housing area at idle in gear, as the RPMs increase it quiets down, stops in park and neutral.

Per RAVE it appears that the transmission has to be dropped in order to change it? is this something with normal tools and marginal intelligence (and a few beers) I can do at home? Looks like I will need a tranny jack.

I searched around but could not find any detailed instructions... Does anyone have any detailed instructions and/or pictures of the process? Any tips would also be very appreciated.


Thanks!

 

[leftlanetruckin]

hell I'll be going through CDA tomorrow with any luck :thumb:
Regular tools should do the trick IMO.
My Alldata is showing 8.4hrs to r&r the flexplate, so have a couple of 6 packs on hand :wink:

Martin

 

[ghur]

Did mine recently. Follow rave for the gearbox removal. Getting to the bell housing bolts can seem impossible but it can be done. I used a series of extentions with my socket and ratchet which made life easier getting to the top bolts over the top of the gearbox. A wobble drive extention is invaluable. With the geabox support / cross member removed you can lower the rear of the entire gearbox - engine assembly for easier access.

Once the flex plate and bits are out inspect the spigot on the rear of the torque converter (T/C) and the associated spigot unit that attaches to the crankshaft for wear. My flex plate had being changed fairly recently judging by the overall condition of the parts but the vehicle must have done many miles with a broken flex plate prior to its first replacement and both the T/C spigot and spigot locator were oval. This meant that when everything was re-assembled the T/C was obviously not exactly central and there was heavy vibration which is the reason I pulled mine out. I fitted a new spigot locator and had the T/C overhauled where they rebuilt and machined the spigot.

If you need to remove the torque converter use a straight edge across the face of the bell housing and measure the distance to the T/C as it is very important that when re-fitted it locates on the oil pump correctly and slides all the way in or you will break the pump when tightening things up.

Its not a simple job but remember the gearbox weighs about 17 tons (it feels like it when you are lying on your back) so be very careful. If you had seen my Heath Robinson setup up for lowering the gearbox you would faint. Not very smart but it worked. I would not recommend doing it solo. Get a helper. He can pass the beers.

 

[upboardin]

Thank you both for the info

Besides the flex plate, is there any other parts I need? should I replace anything else while I'm down there?

Thanks!

 

[cyclone]

Hey upboardin,

How did you get on with it? I'm lining up to do mine this week end.

Tyrone

 

[Ferdinand]

I've just put in a price request at a special LR Garage here in Denmark - Don't have the time or place to do it myself - so I have to pay to get it done (And I HATE giving money for labour!!!!)

 

[upboardin]

Hey upboardin,

How did you get on with it? I'm lining up to do mine this week end.

Tyrone

have not had a chance to get to it yet... and its been raining and cold for the past few weeks.

In the next week or two i should have time to get to it

 

[RRToadHall]

Thank you both for the info

Besides the flex plate, is there any other parts I need? should I replace anything else while I'm down there?

Thanks!

If you have any hint of leakage at the rear main this is the time to replace it.

 

[LarryS]

Thank you both for the info

Besides the flex plate, is there any other parts I need? should I replace anything else while I'm down there?

Thanks!

Check the reluctor ring for cracks, these maybe hair line so check closely in good light.

 

[leftlanetruckin]

Going through CDA again this weekend if a hand is needed :thumb:
Probably Friday pm/Saturday.
Martin