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Discussion Starter #41
Lol, I didn't get a chance to use the lead. The little fellah had the seat out in a flash when I told him it couldn't be done. By the time I put the camera down he was ripping plugs out like a man on an electric chair.
No secrets, he's happy for me to post it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #42
An update:
I got the BECM and ecu [it had to go to] back. I also got a remote, wrong key though.
I plugged it all back in and, without reading any instructions proceeded to start it, which it did.
As it idled I tried the remote, nothing. I stopped it, thinking it might sync up. Obviously it didn't. When I tried to start it again I got the engine disabled warning. Lee programmed an EKA code into the BECM but so far I haven't managed to get into EKA mode.
I've tried pulling the BECM fuses out and replacing them with the remote key in the ignition. I also tried all the previously mentioned fixes...
Lucky it's in the garden and not up a sand dune!
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Using the fuse method, but leaving it a bit longer before replacing the fuses I'm now able to start it up and drive it. It's still alarmed, the drivers door is still superlocked, rear doors are opening now though.
I haven't been able to sync the remote as yet using the door lock method, any tips....?
 

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Easy, you can;t sync if you are in an alarmed status and the drivers door is not operating properly. Same suggestions and advice posted dozenss of time in this stuation still apply.
 

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As above, without a working lock/microswitch you can not signal to the BECM

-Try starting up and tripping the Intertia Switch; It might just 'unsuperlock'

- Or use Lee's BECM loom

Alternatively:
 

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Discussion Starter #46
You're right, I see that. It's just that I'm hammer shy, and now that I've got it in front of the garage and have another car...
I'll try the inertia switch with the engine running, if I can get it going again. If that fails Lee said he'll resend me his lead.


IMG579.jpg
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If it's just the drivers door that is superlocked but the other doors are now opening, then you also now have the option of unbolting the rear drivers side door from the hinges (and unclipping the connectors in the door jamb) and taking the door off..

Then you have access to the circular hasp which can be cut through to get the door open. Replace door latch (as it's probably faulty if it hasn't un-superlocked.. or there's a wiring/corrosion issue) and replace the cut door hasp and good to go..

Marty
 

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Ah, so then the choice is hammer/latch or saw/hasp, Marty ?.... Ok, but assuming (!) it is a faulty latch then I still vote for the former ! Incidentally Gareth are you 'saw shy', too ? - I used to be damage-averse myself but P38 ownership 'cured' this !

If the intertia switch or Lees' lead methods don't work - and the driver's seat is still out it may just be possible to get the door panel off (?); Anyone ever tried this ? (- and if so how much damage was caused ?!) If possible this way you could check the connector/links etc... and/or even apply some volts across the 'superlocking' actuator to move it - maybe.. (but I would suspect that Lee's lead signals to the outstation/s to force this, but indirectly ?)

If none of these techniques work of course you still can't get the latch off with the door closed though - so you know what comes next, maybe.....
 

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Discussion Starter #49
If it came down to opening the door by force, would it be possible to loosen the front wing/sill to gain access to the bottom door hinge bolts and supporting the weight of the door, slide it forward away from the latch point?
 

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Nice idea but it is a loop not a pin - see other doors (or photo) for details !

This is the part you can (just about) access and saw through if you remove the rear door....
 

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I had a problem with driver's door all the time it goes in superlocked position and then i cut the iron part that hold the door then disassemble the lock and cut one bull**** that lock the door in this stupid way...and now everything is ok...Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #52
It turns out the key fob was the wrong frequency. Lee sent me a new receiver, which I fitted. The engine is disabled again and the back doors have superlocked. I'm unable to sync the remote.
The alarm has been unticked in the BECM. Luckily the passenger door still opens and I can open the windows.
I've tried everything previously mentioned, but no luck yet...
 

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Not a great photo - but good enough to explain what (probably) happens...

The superlock actuator (and corresponding pegs) can be seen outlined in yellow; Due to lack of use it can partially seize up. Thus it moves just enough -when energised (c/o a pulse via the outstation)- to rotate the superlock mechanism into the lock position. However -even when the voltage is applied in the opposite direction- there is simply not enough power/torque to unlock it again ... as maybe this takes more force to turn it (?)

A longer pulse -or one with a higher voltage- might do it (probably), but you have to get to the relevant wires to do this.. and that is where Lee's lead comes into play.... once you get behind the door panel !

Photo also shows the 3 microswitches involved.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
The reason I can't sync the remote is the BECM has immobilized the car again, with no EKA code there's no way to disarm it. I have to send the BECM, ECU, receiver and remote back to Lee. He can sort it all out with his rig. Hopefully, when I get the car going again the remote will open the drivers door.
 

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I have to admire your optimism and patience Gareth, even with the 'hopefully' included !

Hopefully (!) I am wrong but:

When it was all working (albeit briefly) that very same instruction/signal (to the outstations) that caused the passenger door to unsuperlock was sent to the driver's door too, but it did not obey it, however...

Chances are the superlock actuator within is seized, as mentioned above. Not sure which latch design/s you have but again the type in the photo is the worse one; (With just grease applied as the barrier) water gets in via those 'lever holes'... and can't get out again due to the rubber seal, hence all the corrosion problems.

As Lee has explained no doubt the BECM is in an 'alarmed' state -again- because it still thinks you are trying to steal your own car !!
 

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Decided to investigate further within (in case I had blamed the superlock actuator unfairly...)

See photos: In fact the latch has a small pawl (pink lines) which is held in place with a spring; In normal use this just stops the lock from going into the superlock position. However a ' quick (anticlockwise) flick' of the superlock actuator (shown as the green oblong within pegs) - done at the same time as the lock motor is pushing the gear wheel shown clockwise - simply moves the pawl out of the way so it can assume the superlocked position:
 

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(Obviously those photos do not show the actual lock/superlock mechanism within the back plate).

The point is that the superlock actuator/pawl do not act to unsuperlock the latch; The main unlock motor does that (operating in the other direction).

I now suspect that the superlock actuator merely enables superlocking which subsequently mechanically jams; Alternatively a fried/imoperative main motor prevents the unlocking action (?)

Situation in 'open' position for comparison purposes:-
 

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pawl p.JPG

Photos do not show the pawl/ratchet very well... Pink arrow on the gear wheel quadrant (edge on) below shows what the pawl normally catches on... yes this really is what helps cause all the trouble !!

Obviously all the lock mechanism on the backplate is involved, too....
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Thank you Fanman! You've done a lot of research for me, and others.
It's all a lot clearer now.
The internet, letting simple people drive complicated cars...
 

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No problem, Gareth, 'it's good to share' and also 'why re-invent the (gear) wheel' ? etc; Or: 'The internet (and digital cameras): helping simple people drive (and repair) over-complicated cars' ? Oh, well...

Unfortunately we still don't know (for sure) just what causes this superlock mechanism to seize up though - but we can probably assume now that lack of use of the superlock mech. just makes this more likely (?). When probing about I actually managed to get it to lock up a couple of times, but the front plate was 'open' so some physical manipulation was possible to free it up (unlike the situation on the car). If I explore this further within that backplate on the latch I will definitely pop up my (photographic) results, though !... and/or maybe even a movie on youtube ?
 
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