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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Yes, which is a big bonus! but trying to get to a connector under the front seat, or behind a trim panel is probably going to be near on impossible! looks like it might have to be the latch attack through the window aperture method!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #22
That is a great link! They're just up the road from me, I'll ring today.
Cheers RRfanman
I don't fancy cutting holes in the old girl, but thank you all for your suggestions.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #23
I still think the fact that the drivers window is not set could be having an effect. Maybe the micro switch is ok.
I'll try to set the window lower with a piece of wood, if it lets me. I assume it detects the motor stopping as the set point?
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It shouldn't have an effect. I can leave mine with the windows and sunroof open, and lock it with no I'll effects

If any of the windows/ sunroof aren't set then it just means that when superlocked, the alarm system won't activate the ultrasonic sensor, as the system doesn't know for sure that the windows are closed

I wouldn't have thought this will cause problems as your vehicle is already locked..

Marty

Sent from my S4
 

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All these (denial) phases sound very familiar too, Gareth5000: WD-40 ? -> will syncing do it ? -> Headlight/hook ? -> it's something else (window set) -> it's (probably) not the microswitch... etc...

..but, ultimately, I decided against 'clutching at straws' - and cutting holes (by any means): It only took 5 minutes - and was (relatively) painless...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #26
It had no effect, as predicted.
I spoke to Lee, from the link you sent me. He may have an option!
I'll keep you posted...
Lol, in denial.
 

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Good to know that denial has subsided ! Maybe Lee has access to some suitable technology (-no, not that laser cutter-)... but I bet the seat has to come out, and/or he has to 'go in and face the BEast' (Yes, the BECM): Yes, please keep us posted (unless Lee's method is a 'trade secret' or something and 'bad boys' may read it... obviously)
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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491 Posts
Err.. that's what I said re the bad microswitch Garvin... and that it - EKA- (apparently) works on some Ozzy rigs. (#1) LR dealers already informed the OP there was not an EKA for his VIN...

But 'Bite the bullet and buy a FOB & etc' ??... Seriously ? (Yes, expensive if they can do it, if the BECM is not too alarmed)... Yes, they will be (very) happy to take your money (without any guarantees whatsoever that it will work, of course !)
Seriously, well yes! Even if it doesn't do the trick it will help in the future in being able to have two routes to communicate with the BECM, so not completely wasted expenditure.

As for the 'drill a hole in the door card' method the seat/wheel is in the way (and you might need quite a a big hole... -although I assume you mean to get to the outstation -but how do you then protect all the wires etc ?). Like the lateral-thinking approach though... In my case I (seriously) wondered about going in through the outside of the door (right though the trim with a 100mm metal hole saw)... then new (ebay) trim (hole behind remains handy 'for the next time' ?...). I wish I was joking about that too..

Overall it's 'a damage-limitation exercise' - aka 'hammer time' !
Ah, yes. The time honoured engineering approach of "if at first you don't succeed, get a bigger 'ammer!" :) OK, the method outlined does look to be the least damaging option. However, getting the door card levered back at the top with the door shut and the internal locking button in the way to make room looks pretty challenging!
 

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Fair points Garvin; To give LR their due (!) they made our rigs really difficult to steal... but during that process they ('accidentally') made it (far too) frequently difficult for the owners to get in (ie. legitimately) with keys and/or FOBs !? It will be interesting to see what Lee's method actually is (if it can be posted up).

-As for hammers it is 'not the size of the hammer' that counts but 'what you do with it and where' of course; Ho puns intended - although IIRC I noticed someone on here advocating that 'bigger hammer' method in their sig. (?)

Again, faced with that £200/pop key FOB issue (- hmmmm... what was that above about 'stealers' ? -) I went aftermarket, and whilst installing it I made some of the lock actuator wiring 'accessible' (as I also mentioned in #18 ). This mod. allows me to lock/unlock these servos 'manually' (ie. without the extra holes/hammers/etc). The way to do this is fairly obvious (or folks can PM me if they need the 'secret' details). The 'downside' is you have to get in first to do the mod......
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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OK, OK so giving the latch a good dose of 'what for' may get Gareth into his P&J and even able to change the latch. But then what? With no EKA code and no fob how does the system get de-alarmed and the key able to operate everything again?
 

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OK, OK so giving the latch a good dose of 'what for' may get Gareth into his P&J and even able to change the latch. But then what? With no EKA code and no fob how does the system get de-alarmed and the key able to operate everything again?
Well, and as indicated above a couple of times above (#11), it all depends on 'just how alarmed the BECM' state is now; And that it it may be possible to resolve this 'superlock' problem via the OBD - or it may need direct connection to the BECM to unlock it..; Overall, whilst it might actually be possible to do this with the door closed it is much easier with it open (particularly as we are assuming a microswitch fault) ?!

-Alternatively perhaps Lee has some 'other method' (perhaps even the device mentioned above) that will resolve all this ?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #32
Just a quick update... Lee told me a couple of tricks that I hadn't read about. One involved removing the 3 blue BECM fuses, from the back to the front, then replacing, rear one first, middle, then front. with the key in the ignition. No luck with that, but the passenger door isn't superlocked anymore. I was able to unlock it from inside, so access is getting better at least.
The next method involves tripping the inertia switch. This should unlock the doors. I haven't managed to set it off yet, he sent me a workaround but the footwell panel is being obstreperous and refuses to budge. I'll report the results shortly.
Failing this, Lee has some hardware which will get it going. I'll report in when I know more.
I have pdf's of those methods, I'll ask if I can post them. Also he mentioned that he has a mk2 version with only three wires, I'll see if I can get more info on it for you.
 

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A-ha.... now that sounds like a very smart way to coax the BECM into co-operating; Yes, it would be great to post the details up if Lee allows this (or perhaps he could supply them if we requested them individually ?). Not sure how you get to those fuses with the door in the way, though... and I wonder what hardware he has, too

As for tripping the Inertia switch - how about a hammer ??
(No, not really..... )
 

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You would just need to ground the inertia switches BeCM input, to achieve the same thing (if it actually helps in this scenario).

Since it is all four doors superlocked, obviously a microswitch has failed to toggle, presumably the CDL, ground that wire and you might stand a chance, be it through repeatedly trying the latch - perhaps when it's coldest - or physically/electrically directly at the latch connector (which obviously means getting to it).
 

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Yes, that's the idea; Whack the switch with a small hammer (sorry, a screwdriver...) - if you can actually get to it !.. or alternatively short out 2 & 3 on the C111 connector: See diagram below; Tried this on my GEMS and it 'unsuperlocked' just fine (but in my case the BECM is not 'upset' either !)...
but that whack/short upsets the car (alarm etc) for sure....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #37
This is the state of play...
The inertia switch thing does nothing with the car in lockdown. Lee is going to send me a bit of kit that will open the doors, first by connecting it to the door lock [details to come], then the BECM. This will open the back doors, the same device will enable me to start the motor and move the car to a more convenient spot. Then I have to tip the seat back to get at the BECM, remove it and post it to Lee. He'll waft his soldering iron over it and sync it with a fob, I'll cut the superlock wires and bobs your uncle!
I've been looking at bluetooth OBD2 adapters.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/190875924827?lpid=87

Maybe someone can write some useful apps for our rigs, my new phone has more power than my desktop computer.
Perhaps we could bypass the BECM altogether...
 

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That's a pity - presumably the BECM's alarmed state just inhibits the Inertia Switch anyway (ie. if you can't actually start/move the car then its Intertia is negligible..?!)

These next stages also familiar though:.. 'unlock' the door... remove the BECM.... 'unlock' the BECM..... perhaps a combined 'hammer/soldering iron tool' is needed for P38s ... but I don't think that's what Lee's device is (?) As far as I can tell his GEMS 'box of tricks' mentioned before (#15) means you don't actually need the BECM... at least not to start it up; Read on here a while back a plan someone had to put a GEMS 4.6 into a boat.... no BECM needed of course as no doors/locks, EAS, HEVAC, etc.... and definitely one way to avoid all those overheating problems, too ?..

Yes, OBD is very useful tool with our rigs too; And your new phone is 1000 times more powerful than the BECM... and that's a conservative estimate !

Prefer the OBD/laptop kit myself, mainly due to their real-time charts....
But don't expect special phone aps. for P38s thanks to 'quirky' protocols.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #39
With the help of a small chap, 2013-10-11 11.09.13.jpg mark.jpg lead.jpg I was able to get the BECM out while the door was still locked. I didn't use the lead supplied by Lee to open the superlocks or start the motor.
I'll post it off tomorrow.
 

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Good plan; The hardest part is just getting the side plastics/rivets off the seat surround to expose the bolts... as no doubt your small chap will have noticed: Keep the big hammer handy though (Sorry - have not mentioned it for a few posts...)

Why did you not try Lee's kit though ?.... looks interesting !... plugs into BECM leads ? (- any 'secret' details ?)
 
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