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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
My 95 4.6 p38a is immobilized in my garden! I woke to find the new battery dead flat, I thought that was why the doors weren't unlocking. My drivers side window doesn't close all the way so I was able to pull the bonnet with a piece of wire. I charged the battery but the doors still wouldn't open. I searched the forums and found the 1515 eka code, I've tried various ways suggested to enter the code but no luck. At this point I should say that when I bought the car the key was lost, I've used the manual key since I had it [4 years] with no problems.
I then read about putting the ignition key into second position before connecting the positive. This brings up the dash lights but when I tried to turn it over the alarm went off.
I rang a couple of dealers to find the correct eka code but there isn't one listed. They had no useful suggestions other than call a locksmith, who would know nothing about Range Rovers.
Is my car a right off?
 

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Not good but not a write-off...

Yours is a '95 so probably does not have the immobiliser coil around the ignition, so that 'POSN. II' method would not work - whereby you push buttons on the FOB, step 5, but you don't have the FOB anyway..

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/becm/alarm.html#altfix

Yes, your car 'just' thinks you are trying to steal it of course: Did you close the bonnet again after charging the battery ?; You may have really upset the BECM though; What dash messages are showing up ?

PS: Others may (in fact will) disagree but I believe it is worth partly disabling the locks (cut the superlock actuator wires to them) if you have metal-key-only entry...
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #4
I get side indicators in the unlock position only. Maybe the microswitch doesn't work on one side of the lock?
The dash does nothing unless I do the position 2 thing.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
That sounds like a good idea. Shame I can't open the doors.
I'll try spraying the lock with wd40, it may fix the microswitch if that's the problem.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #6
I did close the bonnet. When I connected the battery in pos2 the dash lit up normally with no alarm warnings that I noticed, just the normal beeps.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Just thought... My window mechanism is missing a tooth, it won't go all the way up. This gave me access the the battery, but will it stop the eka code from being read?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
I've made some headway. I used pos2 method to turn the ignition on, then used a stick to press the window button. I'm in!
I tried EKA 1515 again and after 5 minutes, heard a beep beep. I tried the doors, nothing. I put the key in the ignition but the alarm went off when I turned it.
That's the first time I've heard that beep, I'll keep trying...
 

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Good progress there, Gareth5000 ! Sounds like the BECM is not in a too-alarmed state... Have the other doors 'un-superlocked' too ?

Yes, this could still just be a faulty (intermittent) latch/microswitch issue; WD40 is ineffective as these switches are sealed (and in fact too much WD40 can upset the friction links in the mechanism).

See (and note the 'switch test' methods within):

http://p38rangerover.com/central-locking/the-cental-locking-system.html


Incidentally I believe EKA access was not used in early/'95 OZ cars (?)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the link. There is no EKA code for my car, according to the dealer. What now? I'm flummoxed.
The door is still super locked, I meant get in through the window without breaking it.
Can it be synced or preferably disabled from the serial socket?
 

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Ah, that's disappointing - I though you were 'in' by the 'usual' means - aka the door/s !

Tricky one this (depending again on just how upset the BECM is) but -unfortunately- some form of destruction is probably next...

eg. I would assume that there is a problem with the door lock mech. (eg the aforementioned microswitches) and so probably trash it (the latch) to get in now as per:

http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/doors/doorlocks.html#intro

You may be really lucky with some wire hooks down the gap now the window is down - but don't bet on it; It mainly depends on the state of the linkages from the lock down to the latch (and if they are actually functioning correctly) eg. as in:

http://www.rangerovers.net/forum/7-range-rover-mark-ii-p38/11692-definitive-fix-stiff-p38a-door-handles.html


The main point is that at some point you may need to (physically) get to the BECM to unlock it ...but it is underneath the (RHD) Driver's seat... of course !

-However if you want to be less destructive than that you could try to explore the BECM via the OBD socket (if that's what you mean); The slight problem here though is that some (particularly earlier) BECMs will not communicate unless the ignition is on... and 'alarmed' status may affect this option; You won't really know until you try it..

Yes - 'Catch 22' => Hammer time ?

BTW 'Syncing' is the process only used to make sure your FOBs talk to your BECM - and so it does not apply if you don't have FOBs...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for your detailed reply, sorry for my incorrect descriptions. You were right, I did mead OBD socket, and to explore the BECM through it. The ignition does come on with the pos2 method, but I also doubt the alarm would allow access.
Time to sift through the forums and don the headlight for some upside down downsides from down under.
 

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No problem: Your 'headlight and hook' method sounds very familiar.... but I still used the hammer later ! Photo/picture of 'the enemy' below, or at least close enough for you to see what you are aiming for down that tiny gap ! Note in particular the three actuator rods heading up from the latch to the lock.

-This method may work if the actuator rod has dropped off (but not if the microswitch has had it of course)

-Note the photo is only a Passenger Door lock for a LHD; Items 3 and 5 on the RAVE diagram are the 'key' ones !... and yes the alarm may well be triggered as you probe around like this.... and just shouting 'shut up I am not trying to steal you' is very ineffective at stopping the noise if/when this happens - but it may amuse the neighbours...


Also forgot to mention: If you use the metal key to 'lock' it twice in quick succession it superlocks.....
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks RRfanman, great help again.
I loosened the center of the horn to make it quite so that's no worries.
If there is no EKA code listed for my vin, does that mean the default 1515 should work, or does it mean that the key method won't work anyway?
 

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Hope you did not 'modify' your alarm sounder with that hammer.... as after a )noisy) while it can be very tempting.. !

The 'default 1515 EKA' routine is reported as "OK for NAS vehicles and for 'some' Ozzy ones", but I also have the impression it won't work with the earliest ones (ie. that 'default' was not actually set on them); Again the official documentation is ambivalent on this. The problem however is that if one of your microswitches is inoperative (as we suspect) then you can not signal any such code to the BECM anyways....

In the meantime, something to consider (for later maybe, or just advice) ? :-

http://www.labtronx.com.au/mobi-lize.htm

Anyone on here actually used this device ?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the early 'Oz' versions do not have an EKA code set at all (including the default 1515) then signalling to the BECM via the key in lock/latch will not do anything anyway will it? On that basis perhaps the BECM will respond if communicated to via RF from a fob. If that is the case surely it's time to bite the bullet, buy a fob and get it coded up by LR (at great expense I'll grant you) to see if that will do the trick! Can LR not advise what the EKA code situation is from the chassis number to see if this will work?

Failing that I would be tempted to bore a hole through the door card from inside the vehicle to access the multi-plug to the latch, disconnect and then provide the necessary voltage directly to the latch to unlock the pesky thing. Indeed, you could always try injecting the EKA codes directly into the multi-plug back to the BECM. The door card has to be the least expensive bit to damage/replace/repair doesn't it? The latch can then be replaced and all should be good again . . . . . . . until next time!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Getting the FOB from LR will help in the future, but if the door latch isn't working at the moment, then he won't be able to sync it to the vehicle to get it unlocked.

If you're going to go with the hammer/break the latch method - then once you've got the drivers door open, you should then be able to take the door card off, replace the latch, and then get the other doors to unlock.

It could be worth cutting/disconnecting the 'superlock' wire on the new latch so that the drivers door can never be superlocked - that way should you have issues again, then you'll still be able to get the door open...

I've read of people who have cut the superlock wire in both front doors so that you'll always have access. The rear doors can probably be 'jumpered' with 12V on the connector from the BECM as the rear doors are driven direct, rather than via an outstation.

Hope you get into it soon!
 

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Err.. that's what I said re the bad microswitch Garvin... and that it - EKA- (apparently) works on some Ozzy rigs. (#1) LR dealers already informed the OP there was not an EKA for his VIN...

But 'Bite the bullet and buy a FOB & etc' ??... Seriously ? (Yes, expensive if they can do it, if the BECM is not too alarmed)... Yes, they will be (very) happy to take your money (without any guarantees whatsoever that it will work, of course !)

As for the 'drill a hole in the door card' method the seat/wheel is in the way (and you might need quite a a big hole... -although I assume you mean to get to the outstation -but how do you then protect all the wires etc ?). Like the lateral-thinking approach though... In my case I (seriously) wondered about going in through the outside of the door (right though the trim with a 100mm metal hole saw)... then new (ebay) trim (hole behind remains handy 'for the next time' ?...). I wish I was joking about that too..

Overall it's 'a damage-limitation exercise' - aka 'hammer time' !

@Marty; Cutting the superlock wires is what I mooted in #3. Only done this on one wire/door on my rig so far but I have done it so I have access to the actuator wires in the front door pocket (and a built-in plug/socket bridging arrangement therein: Yes, another hole... but just a 'small' one !)
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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It's a pity that getting to the BECM would be such a pain.. if you could get to the connector which had the superlock wires in it for the rear door, the you could jumper it with 12V to activate the superlock motor. With the rear door un-superlocked, you could then unlock the rear door with the sill button, and open the rear door.

If you then removed the rear door from the hinges, you would get access to the hasp on the front door, which could then be cut with a hacksaw/cutoff wheel. Then there's no damage to trim etc.
 

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The OP is already 'in' here, via the window... are you suggesting he now attack his rear door card with that 100mm hole saw I mentioned !? But seriously, probably the main point is that if, as suspected, one of his front microswitches is inop. then it has already effectively 'self-trashed' anyways... and so he would just be (fittingly) 'finishing if off' with the hammer !?

Overall it is sad that (-if not just a dropped-off actuator rod-) the real 'villain of the piece' here is probably a 30p microswitch:-
 

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