[mylife1903]

Yesterday began new challenge
first, reduced engine performance than flashing MIL. I connected with elm reader on the highway and saw misfires on5th mostly and some on 4th cylinder. P0305 P0304 and P0300

flashing check engine light mostly a sign of failing ignition coil today i swap 5th and 7th coils, cleared codes tested the car. First flight was in normal condition after 10minutes i kost powerr and again REP and flashing mil returned

i check the spark plug in 5th cylinder visually normal

add some injector cleaners and 98octsne gas

need some others experiences

 

[Keralis]

so what is your actual question

never drive with a flashing CEL, it is catalyst damaging. those buggers are expensive

Did the code move with the coil? Check wiring. If it is cylinder dependent it is likely a coil, if it was a bank of cylinders I'd say something else.

 

[mylife1903]

so what is your actual question

never drive with a flashing CEL, it is catalyst damaging. those buggers are expensive

Did the code move with the coil? Check wiring. If it is cylinder dependent it is likely a coil, if it was a bank of cylinders I'd say something else.

Not coil dependent code didn’t move with coil.

Actual question is it’s mechanical related or electrical?

after deleting codes vehicle runs fine this is little bit hope for me. In Second engine rebuilding I can’t stay alive my wife kills me

i dont have catalytic converters car runs better without converters

 

[Keralis]

Start with basics, if it didn’t move with cylinders than check compression and go from there.

Check injector pulse with a mechanics stethoscope..

Here’s an 06 with the 4.4 on my lift:

The owner is actually the owner of Safari Gard.. if anyone knows them

It had a difficulty to start, low compression on certain cylinders.
We retimed it, which cured some compression but we found it needed a complete engine replacement.

Only 270,000 miles though....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[mylife1903]

Start with basics, if it didn’t move with cylinders than check compression and go from there.

Check injector pulse with a mechanics stethoscope..

Here’s an 06 with the 4.4 on my lift:

The owner is actually the owner of Safari Gard.. if anyone knows them

It had a difficulty to start, low compression on certain cylinders.
We retimed it, which cured some compression but we found it needed a complete engine replacement.

Only 270,000 miles though....


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Been there
10k kms ago did complete engine job
i am terrified now, if low compression very very bad news again for me
was low compression on 8th due burnt valves

diagnostic software show 2.1m/s for injector don’t know telling something or not.
Begging god for bad spark plug now

 

[RABarrett]

Considering the circumstances, you may be experiencing either a coil or plug wire issue. As the engine warms up, the mixture leans out, causing the demanded voltage from the ignition to rise quickly. This rise in voltage can cause a defective coil or wire to start arcing to ground. This will cause the misfire, the code set, and the conditions occurring during warm driving. Just a heads up, burned valves will cause a misfire during cold as well as warm conditions. As a word to the wise, it is more telling to compare the pulse duration on the injectors. Suspect a broblem only if the duration is considerable different from other injectors. I suspect a coil, or plug wire. Ray

 

[mylife1903]

first thank you Ray for your respond
little bit update

i am very very challenger never give up. 14 months of rebuild this engine teach me many things
but this 2006 range rovers has strange problems. 2007 models has less problems

what we done
swaping the coil on 5th cylinder not solve the problem and code not moved witk coil to the 7th
new spark for 5th cylinder not solve the problem. Old spark was just old but in normal condition, acceptable for his age
cleaning the injectors with wynn’s chemicals not solve the problem

after
cleaning injectors effect is good, injectors are quieter now

yesterday i drove 30km sometimes monster was alive sometimes no power, reduced engine performance jinjin and flashing mil.
today morning i cleaned the codes drove 20km sometimes no power sometimes normal, very intermittent
my friend told me after cleaning you have to drive more and try to steady on 2000/2500rpms
drove 50kms from city on higway first 30km was a dream than again jinjin reduced engine performans flashing mil no power.
Crazy car woth crazy problems
All in my trip my live performance reader was attached and didnt like the fuel pressure 3-4 times I restarted the engine and checked fuel pressure than after why and where came an idea open the fuel cap. With open fuel cap drove the monster for an hour with hard performance 0-100 60-160 no problems
interesting

now i am thinking whats is the real problem i think this is an electrical issue
because i drove this monster without compression on two cylinders for 6 months never had a power issue. Cold starts was difficult and all body was shaking but after warming she was alive and misfires didn’t cause flashing mil with broken engine.

I know this, if the problem is mechanical it’s a steady problem you can feel it on cold and warm engine. This one is strange sometimes engine works ideal cant feel it’s running or not sometimes on low rpms i am shaking with all body of car.

Will check connections and cable on each coil, this one is alsa good challenge

 

[RRToadHall]

P0305 P0304 and P0300

flashing check engine light mostly a sign of failing ignition coil today i swap 5th and 7th coils,

Your three codes are for misfire on #5, #4, and and random misfire.

 

[mylife1903]

Your three codes are for misfire on #5, #4, and and random misfire.

Update
yesterday came two more codes
P0171 lean code on bank1 and P0137 second O2 sensor

problem is still very intermittent and unguessable sometimes engine runs quite and stable sometime works like has airleaks than flashing mil, reduced engine performance after 10 minutes everything is just fine.

Tomorrow we will disconnect lambda and give a try

little bit info
after driving very active i smell little bit gas from exhaust like rich mix but the code is lean, its a very strange fuel mixing issue but why just on 2 cylinders?

 

[mylife1903]

After 1.5 years of challenge biggest issue is found and killed.
The main problem was 5th injector.
After ordering 2 intake gaskets and tb gasket we removed supercharger and intercoolers
Resistance on 5th injector was 65
We put it on bench, first 1-2 seconds it worked than stopped just died.

I replaced that injector with a used one from 2008 4.2 rrs

Monster is alive

Some information for readers
You can remove supercharger with elbow attached. You need a little mirror for visual help.
After that you have move intercoolers for space and finally you can see the fuel rail.

While i was there I cleaned the intahe air temperature sensor and map sensor.

Whole body of supercharger looks like this

If you are driving long enough on a range rover you will be a self educated land rover mechanic even better than stealers parts changers.

I also use my experiences on this car to point the main culprit. Once i get out of gas and check engine light was flashing, remembering this also use fuel trims.
Disconnected coil show +11+12 corrections on that bank on long term fuel trim but disconnected fuel injectors is showing +22 on ltft

It is a range rover and i am waiting other challenges already.
Next work is rebuilding the coolant valve and replacing thermostat. Than i have 2 rear speakers and subwoofer issue. Also rear camera is intermittent working. I have an issue woth purge valve too. I am planning a good wd40 shower for thath valve and a carb cleaner shower for fuel vapor canister

 

[pontoon]

In my case i found most of my engine issues were being caused by an elarged gap on the injector conntion wiring. i snipped them all and replaced them with ned connectors and all the problems went away , no more shaking CEL etc.