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Discussion Starter #1
Another problem turns up.

I have a rumble from the front of the engine and on inspection I found that I can move the fan about 1cm in and out. The pulley moved with it. I tightened the 4 bolts that hold the pulley on and it still moves. So, is there another bolt to tighten somewhere? The fan is the vicous type.

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Discussion Starter #3
p76rangie said:
Sounds like you need a new water pump.
If I remove the water pump mounting bolts is there enough room to extract the pump with the fan assembly still attached? It would be easier to dimantle on the bench.


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TehPriest said:
p76rangie said:
Sounds like you need a new water pump.
If I remove the water pump mounting bolts is there enough room to extract the pump with the fan assembly still attached? It would be easier to dimantle on the bench.


:pray:
Depending on what engine you have, it is only one nut you have to undo to get the fan off. I am not sure whether you would get to all the water pump bolts easily with the fan and pully still on.
If you pulled the radiator first, you would have enough room to get the water pump out with the fan on.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have just checked to see which part I need and have now got a new problem. The pump on the car looks like the STC483 unit BUT, all the pictures of this unit from suppliers show it as having 3 bolts to fix it to the pulley. Mine has four :cry:

So I am well and ruly stuck now.

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Welcome to RR Ownership. :D

Have you got it off the car yet?

Can you post some pictures of the water pump you have on your car and whats the letters on your VIN (don't post the whole thing) KA etc.

Cheers

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #7
After looking around the various suppliers I think the part may be STC588 which is listed as a V8 Defender with Air Con :? It looks exactly the same but with four bolt holes.

I will try to get some pics.

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As Rangie says, it's easier with the Rad out, after all you've got to drain the coolant and it gives you a good chance to give it a flush.

You'd be better first splitting the viscous unit off the pump in-situ, even if you get the pump off there's no really good way to hold the pump in vice, tighten all the belts up as tight as possible and a good tap with proper viscous spanner and a big hammer.

It should be either an STC483 upto an MA VIN, then they changed to a serpentine belt which is something like an STC4378, but even that ones got 3 holes.

Doesn't make sense why someone would go to the trouble of changing the water pump and pulleys, or unless that's why your pumps failed, because the alignments out, normally the bearing goes, not know one where the impeller shaft moves. :?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
TehPriest said:
After looking around the various suppliers I think the part may be STC588 which is listed as a V8 Defender with Air Con :? It looks exactly the same but with four bolt holes.

I will try to get some pics.

:pray:
That should have been STC488

The odd thing is there is no water loss. I would have imagined that if the bearing had gone there would be. Holding the fan blade it takes firm but not heavy force to move it back and forth. At least 1cm and probably more like 2cm. The whole fan, impeller and pulley move as one, the pump of course stays still. There is a definate rumble and shake of the engine at idle and at higher revs when accelerating. There are 2 belts one for the alternator the other for W/pump, P/S and A/C. The alternator is a little set back and runs off the inner crank pulley, the other runs off the outer crank pulley.

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If you are taking the viscous coupling off, loosen it clockwise, looking from the front. One big nut. It has a left hand thread. Then you take off the fan cowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Time for a bit of embarresment now. After going out to take some pictures I have realised that I am going nuts, or should that be bolts :oops: I was sure I tightened four bolts up but on close inspection it clearly only had three. So back to the STC483 it is then. :oops:

Sorry for the bother. :doh:

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When you're replacing the pump, if you get a proper LR one it'll come with a new gasket in the box, but they'll need your old pump minus the viscous coupling and use all new 1/4 bolts as I sheared a few using a spanner with little force and there all different lengths so make a note of where they come from (sorry don't know whether you know or not).

If you want the LR part numbers for the bolts I've got them or you could use namrik in sussex, they're really reasonable for all fastenings.

Good Luck :D
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK more progress.

Aquired new pump and gasket.

Removed old pump. Not quite how the guide says as it forgets to mention removal of the stays, pulleys and belts. But it is off so tomorrow I will clean the surface and fit the new one. Just have to rememer where all those bolts go :idea:

Some pics;

Tools needed (surprisingly few)



1 1/4" open end, 7/16" and 1/2" combi, screwdriver to release the water pipe, Pliers to release 1 plastic clip (for easier access) and small socket set using the driver and 1/2" and 7/16" sockets.

Fan and belts



I may as well replace them while they are off as well.

The old and new pumps



And finally a small video. It is the sound that is more important than the vid itself.

Click for video
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The Rave CD says 1 hour for the waterpump job. Yeah right. Maybe 1 hour for the pump but another 3 for all the belts :oops: How on earth are you supposed to get to that rear alternator nut :shock:

Well it is back on and re-filled. Will do a drive out later and then check the levels again.

Oh, and who was the clever designer that decided to put the pinch nuts on the unserside of the tensioners :twisted:

Just off to give myself some absolution now.

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Discussion Starter #17
Just got back from some lane. dual and motorway driving and so far no signs of any leaks. And WOW what a difference. Engine is now almost silent until you floor it that is then whoooooshhh. No noises, squeels or vibrations. Excellent.

There are a couple of new annoyances not due to the pump problem but that have now become apparent.

1. Steering seems to be not self centering properly.
2. Engine not happy running on LPG.

My new race 10mm plug leads should, postal strike alowing, arrive tomorrow so they may make some differece to the latter.

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Is your power steering pump belt correctly tensioned? You would've had to remove it to do your water pump, seems coincidental if it was working fine before and isn't now.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
journeyman said:
Is your power steering pump belt correctly tensioned? You would've had to remove it to do your water pump, seems coincidental if it was working fine before and isn't now.
All seems to be OK again now. See viewtopic.php?f=4&t=34790&p=269552#p269552

All the belts are new and adjusted so I knew it ewasn't them.

OK on with the miriad of other jobs.

:pray:
 
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