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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I am now the proud owner of two p38 range rovers!

###Little but of back story or skip down for the actual problem###

The first p38 is on coils and works a treat, this second one I picked up mainly for parts last weekend is completely original with the whole EAS system in place.
The previous owner stated it was working when parked only around a month ago, and I am led to believe him as he genuinely was disappointed when it wouldn’t rise up (along with the fact I found two €120 receipts for full tanks of fuel within the past month) so I assume he wasn’t lying unless he enjoys a back breaking ride.

###The problem###

The usual - all eas lights on with the 35mph max warning - car won’t rise - pump won’t turn on etc.

Checked all fuses, they seem fine

Plugged into easunlock software (getting proper stable connection, green light and consistent rx) - read faults first time - only fault is “vehicle has moved”

cleared codes, unlocked eas but it instantly goes back into full fault mode when the software is disconnected.

manually turned on pump using software with the drivers door open - the rear airbags both pumped up (turned off pump manually as I didn’t want them to explode!) front bags did not do anything. (I assume maybe the rear solenoids were stuck open or something as the car should not have changed height with door open)

I then left the car with the rear bags pumped up almost to max, taped some paper to the arch and marked a line to see if it would drop over night - a day later it had not dropped at all, not even a millimetre! I cleared the codes once more and after shutting off the vehicle (had it running Incase pump worked) - I could hear some solenoids clicking and the rear bags dropped back down to what appears to be access height or something like that - very

Im now left in this situation where I am quite confused - I feel that a large percentage of the system is working.

1. I could turn on the pump
2. It raised up the back air bags
3. It did not leak over 24 hours
4. It can let air out of the rear air bags by itself.

One time after unlocking eas, the pump was activating itself but it would only turn on for a second, then off, then on etc - never seemed to build pressure.

One time, after unlocking eas and turning off the vehicle, some solenoid was clicking like crazy - couldn’t hear any pressurised air being released tho just a 10 clicks a second kinda sound then it stopped.

I can only assume that there is some kind of a solenoid or driver pack fault as everything else in the system appears to work. - the other coil p38 I have has all the old eas components still left inside so I could theoretically swap them over for testing purpose etc.

Anybody have any idea as to what could be the main problem? Since the pump works, the system doesn’t leak and the solenoids kinda half work - I’m lead to believe there it’s maybe pressure switch or driver pack (or both) and possibly some stuck solenoids.

Thank you.
Michael.
 

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Could well be the driver pack, or at least the connections in the plug between the driver pack and the valve block. Unfortunately it's the one that isn't accessible with the valve block in place so it has to come out to check. The female sockets can lose tension and not make a good connection or all it may need is a squirt of contact cleaner and plugging back in.

I have had problems with EASUnlock putting a fault back on when you shut it down even though it appears to be working fine while it is connected. Simple answer to that one is while it is working, rather than shutting down the software then disconnecting, just unplug from the OBD socket while the software is still running. The software gets offended but the EAS ECU doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi Richard,
Wow I wasn’t expecting a reply so fast.
Yes I do suspect it is the driver pack due to the weirdness of the solenoids - guess I will have to pull it out and see really, possibly swap in the one from the other p38.
I’ll let you know how it goes sometime tomorrow or when I have time to work on it again!
 

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You can do a quick check on the solenoids using EAS unlock. Just activate them individually and see if they go clickety-clack.

Also check the pump is actually filling the tank. With pump running & a door or tailgate open, the ECU should not operate the valves. It should just fill the tank until the pressure switch operates. If the rear is rising with a door open then valve block must be leaking from the pump feed through the Inlet or Exhaust to corner valves?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You can do a quick check on the solenoids using EAS unlock. Just activate them individually and see if they go clickety-clack.

Also check the pump is actually filling the tank. With pump running & a door or tailgate open, the ECU should not operate the valves. It should just fill the tank until the pressure switch operates. If the rear is rising with a door open then valve block must be leaking from the pump feed through the Inlet or Exhaust to corner valves?
Hi, Thanks for your message.

Im not sure if I am missing something in my EAS Unlock software but I don't see anything that would allow me to activate solenoids? I have an option to depressurise the system which I assume opens the exhaust solenoid (which works and I can hear air releasing)

I will have a look into what you said about the possible leak between the valve block to the corner valves, the rear rises so quickly I would be led to believe that its more a solenoid stuck open than it is a cross leak though.
 

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Go to the Heights tab, Click the Get Heights button and each corner will display the number it is seeing fro each corner. There is and Up and Down button above and below each of these numbers, you can adjust each corner in turn by clicking on the Up and Down buttons.
 

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Also in EAS Unlock when you click the corner heights up & down, it also activates the Inlet or Exhaust valve at the same time !! Nanocom is different, and requires you to activate the "corner + inlet" or "corner + exhaust" combination manually.

So EAS Unlock is easier for calibration & adjustment, but Nanocom gives you more detail & control.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Go to the Heights tab, Click the Get Heights button and each corner will display the number it is seeing fro each corner. There is and Up and Down button above and below each of these numbers, you can adjust each corner in turn by clicking on the Up and Down buttons.
Hi again,
Just did what you said this morning, clicked all 4 up and down - heard clicking from the solenoids every time so I assume they are working.
Cleared the codes and unplugged the obd connector - this worked and the car did not have any codes but it would not raise to the selected height - the pump would not run even though the car was in no error mode.

I turned on the pump through the software and it pumped up the back again.

I will have to take apart the valves and solenoids id say as at this point (apart from the pump not turning on by itself) as it seems to be the only thing not really working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also in EAS Unlock when you click the corner heights up & down, it also activates the Inlet or Exhaust valve at the same time !! Nanocom is different, and requires you to activate the "corner + inlet" or "corner + exhaust" combination manually.

So EAS Unlock is easier for calibration & adjustment, but Nanocom gives you more detail & control.
If that’s the case then all my solenoids should be working, I’ll take it out and replace the driver pack with the other one I have lying around, then maybe have a mess around to make sure the pressure switch is working and put it back together.
 

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If the compressor doesn't run when told to by the ECU but will with the software, most likely cause is an open circuit thermal cutout in the compressor. Use a piece of wire to link the Orange and Black wires at the compressor. If it then runs, the thermal cutout has died.

It may be the driver pack output to the inlet or exhaust valves, so the 4 corner valves are working but not the in and out.
 

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The quick way to check the driver pack & solenoids without any diagnostics:
  • Unplug connector at front of EAS Housing
  • Apply 12V via Pins 12+13, and Ground to Pins 10+11
  • Apply 12V to each of pins 1-6 in turn.
    • 1-4 are the corner valves
    • 5+6 are the Inlet & Exhaust
  • Diaphragm valve solenoid is pin 8
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you both for your messages,
I checked for continuity on the black and orange wires on the pump, got a perfect 0 resistance so I assume the thermal switch is fine.

I then looked for an open circuit between pins 7 and 9 on the valve block connector - pressure below 120psi should be open circuit - and yes it was perfect open circuit (and yes the system wasn’t pressurised) so I also assume the pressure switch is working.

I didn’t get a chance to start it today, only test for continuity so tomorrow I’ll start it up again just to see if there is any difference (I’m just being optimistic) then I’ll have to take out the valve block and have a look at the driver pack.
 

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Before taking the valve block out, try doing the test Pete suggested. You'll be able to hear the solenoids click if they are working and that checks the driver pack and the connections between that and the solenoid valves.
 

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I have been down this path before.

My advice is to rebuild both compressor and valve block, then check for leaks with soapy water.

Only then start testing components.

To start testing likely worn-out components leads to chasing your tail.

Good luck.
 

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and while the valve block is on the bench, you can test the corner valves for leaks using a workshop compressor. Connect to each in turn & apply 40-60 PSI. Then squirt that valve solenoid with soapy water & look for bubbles.

Or go the whole hog, and create a test system . . . .

293431


293432


Plus Manual Control box !!

293433


293434
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hello again everyone, thank you so much for your replies. I am out in the garage right now and just did the test with the solenoids (the one by jumping the pins on the valve block connector) and all of the solenoids clicked on and off. This means that the solenoids are fine and the driver pack is fine?
Also here is a picture of my diagnostic computer, nice and portable huh
Thanks
293436
 

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At least a tower is likely to have a proper serial port......

Do you have a compressor and a means of putting air into the valve block? Short length of nylon air line and a Schrader valve adapter? If you do, you can put pressure into each outlet port and see if it holds it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
At least a tower is likely to have a proper serial port......

Do you have a compressor and a means of putting air into the valve block? Short length of nylon air line and a Schrader valve adapter? If you do, you can put pressure into each outlet port and see if it holds it.
I can do you one better Richard! While I was out this morning I decided to have another mess around (running the engine, jumping pins etc)
When I put the car to ignition 2, all the eas lights turn on, but once the car is started, the lights just return to normal with no faults on the dash. It was set to access mode so I set it to normal - went out to check the pump but it wasn’t running, but I could hear solenoids click click clicking non stop.
I turned it back off again, while the ignition was off the solenoids were clicking and the back of the car lowered itself back down (self levelling I assume)

I started the engine again, This time the car thought it was in normal height mode (but was now pinned to the ground)
In the engine bay I could still hear the solenoids clicking away but no pump, so I figured I would manually jump the relay to turn on the pump and see what happens.

After about 5 minutes it started to rise! All 4 corners this time!

I then shut it off again and checked the relay (I had checked all relays and fuses in the beginning, but just to be safe I swapped in a new one - even with this new relay the pump would still not run by itself)

I am not sure what could be wrong? I have check the relays, fuses, thermal switch and pressure switch yet the pump will still not turn on by itself - I have a spare pump from the other p38 that I can use (I dont know the condition of it but at least it’s a second option)

I have left the car pumped up on all 4 corners in normal mode now so I can see later if it has dropped back down - I feel that this is very good news though as it means that pretty much everything in the system is functioning - just not correctly.
293437
 

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I know you've checked it but that is the exact symptoms you would get with either a dead thermal cutout in the compressor or a failed pressure switch. You mentioned you've checked the pressure switch and it should be short circuit when the pressure is below 150 psi and open when above that.
 
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