[brandn3w]

I have a rather silly/simple question about water pump removal on my 2012 RR HSE.

How do you remove the fan shroud?

All the how-to's and videos are on a RRSport or LR4 and the shroud is split and you remove the top half to let the fan out, but on the FFRR it looks like it's only one piece.

Is that correct and it just comes out completely?

Just looking for a little direction or tip on that part before I just remove it all as the rest looks fairly similar. Thanks in advance!!

 

[BillConn]

I have a rather silly/simple question about water pump removal on my 2012 RR HSE.

How do you remove the fan shroud?

All the how-to's and videos are on a RRSport or LR4 and the shroud is split and you remove the top half to let the fan out, but on the FFRR it looks like it's only one piece.

Is that correct and it just comes out completely?

Just looking for a little direction or tip on that part before I just remove it all as the rest looks fairly similar. Thanks in advance!!

When I did my water pump, I recall having to remove the shroud and fan together as a unit. It was a bit of a PITA. There is also an some random crap attached to the shroud itself like an oil cooler.
It’s a tight fit squeezing the massive assembly out of there especially when trying to hang on to the fan/clutch assembly whilst removing it.

 

[BillConn]

Oh, and I should add. The fan clutch nut on the 2010-2012 RR’s is standard RH threads.

 

[brandn3w]

Thanks!! I was looking at it vs the videos I was finding and even the coolant bottle was on the opposite side. It's actually fairly different from RRS and LR4.

I have a naturally aspirated 5.0L and read it's LH thread and the SC'd is RH. I'll give it a crack and see, ha.

Man - was hopeful I wasn't looking at the shroud right and it could be split in half and come out. Thanks again!!

 

[newmanium]

Theres a bottom side piece that does come apart from the main one, from what I recall that had to be separated from the main unit by undoing the Torx screw and sliding apart. You can then slide the housing out along with the fan. If you don’t do that, not sure there’s enough room. Definitely a pain, and putting it back on was frustrating to get all the plastic tab pieces lined up.

You’re correct that SC and NA thread on opposite to each other. SC is RH.

 

[brandn3w]

Thanks!! If I show this eBay link can you point out which torx? I see a phillips screw that may be able to release it?

If not - I'll poke around and see, but do appreciate the guided approach when possible!!

eBay Shroud

 

[newmanium]

In red is the one I'm talking about. In yellow are all the other ones I remember, the one at the top holds on the AC hoses with a clamp. The bottom right holds the cooler for an oil line that you pop off. And the bottom left one also mounts both the top/bottom shrouds (I'm pretty sure they overlap) to near the upper radiator.

 

[brandn3w]

Fantastic! THANKS 😊

 

[lenlo]

That fan shroud looks identical to the 2006-2009. Don't forget the push pin that goes at the very bottom, circled in orange. Also added an orange dotted line where the two pieces of fan shroud are joined.

 

[brandn3w]

Very helpful - especially rotated into the correct orientation!!

The bottom push pins look like that top 2 that connect to the radiator itself - just plastic pry tool them out?

I'm so shocked how differently (read: more complex) the FFRR is from the other chassis. Crazy to me.

This is going to be so useful for other people - there's literally no info on this style and my manual I downloaded looks like a L320 chassis not L322.

 

[newmanium]

I ended up breaking one of the push pins and another broke when I tried to reassemble. Worth buying new ones, made it a lot easier. Here's an overpriced eBay listing of them for reference:

Three (3) Push Rivet Fasteners Clips for 2003-2009 Range Rover Fan Shroud Cowl | eBay

Set of THREE (3) Fan Shroud Push Rivet Fasteners for 2003-2009 Range Rover.

www.ebay.com

 

[brandn3w]

Oh man lol I'm sure I can find a cheaper alternative, BUT!! Thank you so much for sharing as I now see the complete design and how many I'll contend with on this job.

 

[brandn3w]

You guys rock!!

It definitely splits in two and comes up with the fan. To be precise for our trucks:

• 2 Electrical connections on LHD side
• 1 Zip tie holding the wiring needs snipped
• 2 T25 Torx on LHD side and lower LHD side
• 1 8mm bolt on RHD holding refrigerant line (I think) to shroud (get from bottom)
• 3 clips as shown above - 2 at top on radiator and last one on the bottom under the truck in the middle

That's it! The bottom most left yellow circle I didn't actually have to remove. Thanks again - really appreciate the help and hope all this helps someone in the future.

Honestly, thank God, disassembly went well and was enjoyable. Back together later this week!

As a "bonus" - the belt tensioner is actually a FoMoCo part that is used on USD trucks. Mine I believe is bad and looked the part numbers up and it looks like it's Ford PN BT131 which should save someone some money since OEM is $150 and the "Ford" part is $67-95.

OEM

Ford

 

[lenlo]

Nice work! I wish someone would put together a full cross reference to FoMoCo parts on our rigs. I did call the dealer on a part awhile back and gave them the number on the part. The parts counter guy said it was not a part number but an engineering spec. He looked it and cross referenced it to a Ford P/N at a fraction of the cost of the LR part for the same thing.

 

[brandn3w]

Ya - it's wild. The water pump had FoMoCo and markings show it was just manufactured for JLR. It didn't look like it was a Ford item.

Fairway Ford has the belt tensioner for $58 --> LINK

 

[JS5D]

Excellent information. I need to get in there too and was looking at all the obstructions (compared to my LR4). Very good.

Regarding the cooling water pump. I changed the pump on my LR4 2 years ago as it was leaking (from picture looks like the same 5.0 engine?). It is common fault in these engines but not hard or expensive to fix. I found that my pump (FoMoCo) was in fact ok, but as is common the little plastic pipe at the back connecting to the cooler behind had a poor o-ring and was leaking. The recommendation is to replace the pipe (comes with new o-ring) as well as the pump because you are there and the plastic cooling water pipe that cradles the little connecting pipe and tends to break.

You need to lift the intake manifold, but it has a rubber seal so you can just bolt it back on without the need for a gasket or sealant

All this plastic is not long lasting with heat which is the same problem on many cars. My son's BMW has pretty much all it's cooling system replaced (by me).

 

[brandn3w]

Great info - thanks!!

Just ordered the FoMoCo belt tensioner from the link above so we'll pray it's right and save some money.

 

[newmanium]

View attachment 291504

FYI on these, it helps to lube em up - I actually pulled it back off to fix something else, and noticed one of the o-rings was all twisted up. A little bit of some Dow lube I had lying around and it slid on cleanly.

 

[brandn3w]

+1 on little lube. Use that trick on injectors as well that never want to fit into their rail or intake manifold.

 

[brandn3w]

Took the fan pulley off and made it much easier to get the WP on - would recommend this if you're changing the stretch belt.

So Ford belt tensioner came in and the pulley is slightly wider. The diameter is the same and it's tighter to spin (new bearing) and the spring end looks the same thickness. Only identifiable difference is that pulley width.

Bolted it in and doesn't touch engine and picture below shows it's only slightly larger. The marking also is "M199D" and OE is "M199N" - again not sure if that matters or not.

May check breakaway torque on the tension on both and see if it differs, but again like the bearing it's new so it's probably stiffer.