Range Rovers Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anyone experienced and understand running the Rave Electrical & EFI tests and results?
Issue: Nonstarter - Rave pg. 815, LTV test results:
T1: Good. Spark strong at HT and plugs
T2:V1 = 12.6v
V2 = 12.4 w/ ig off : .3v ig on​
V3 = 12.4 w/ ig off : .3v ig on​
V4 = 0v​
According to pg. 815 these results are problematic and may be causing the non start.
Pg. 815 states low volts at V2 & V3 indicate possible bad Ignition Switch.
I've installed a new switch returning same results.
T3: Coil & amp are new and pass.
T4: Ohms at Dist good.
T5: Passes rotor arm test.

EFI tests so far accomplished from Rave pg.218:
T1: good
T2: good
T3: good
T4: good
T5: I don't understand

Moving ahead in Rave to Resistor Testing:
Tune Resistor test result with battery connected:​
W/ ecu clip off : 3.89 ohm​
W/ ecu clip on : .878 ohm​
Tune Resistor test results with battery disconnected:​
W/ ecu clip off : 3.89 ohm​
W/ clip on : .99 ohm​

No further EFI testing yet completed.
Grounds at Chassis, Dist, Coil, Bonnet, & under seats all clean and confirmed.
Continuity and Volts confirmed at Ignition Switch.
No voltage at coil with ignition on or off yet HT spark looks strong.
How can this be? Again:
V1 = 12.6v
V2 = 12.4 w/ ig off : .3v ig on (Should be 0v with ig off and 12v ig on)
V3 = 12.4 w/ ig off : .3v ig on (Should be 0v with ig off and 12v ig on)
V4 = 0v
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
950 Posts
A further thought, but absolutely crucial to running and a complete showstopper.

The ignition coil has two (or should have) wires on the negative terminal post. One is the trigger wire from the ignition amplifier that's switching the coil on and off (which must be fully operational as you get the sparks out of your system) to cause sparks, the other one is a trigger wire going to ECU that gives it rpm pulse count. Without that wire in place the ECU is dumb to the engine rotating and won't fire the injectors at all. It's a very small detail without which it won't run.

Worthwhile to verify as if it's been removed and not refitted it'll stop you in your tracks. Often it's mistaken for location and placed wrongly on the positive post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
950 Posts
Trying to emphasize the importance of the link wire above, the two system know nothing about each other APART from this link, it's vital to ensure it's correctly installed with good contact verified.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
950 Posts
Making the assumption that it is the pin 39 check, that is to verify the signal route from ignition coil to ECU as I understand it.

With ignition on it's reading the latent voltage as supplied through the coil, and showing you that the pathway is established to ECU.
With ignition off, the voltage supply to coil is withdrawn and should report zero volts.

Two zeros with the on/off orientation shows there's no way of the ECU receiving rpm count, and so won't pulse the injectors because it then assumes the engine is not rotating.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for your replys RRLondon. I'm thinking that the key to understanding this are the V2 & V3 test results. T5 thru T33 Isn't my focus. The volt drop at cranking indicates a short but not at the switch as Rave suggests. Today I'll be looking at this and will post my findings tonight.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top