RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello All
My car is a 1999 P38a Auto 2.5 DSE 107000 on clock Was 34000 when I purchased as the second owner 17.5 years ago. I've always had car serviced and maintained twice yearly by a true RR devoted fan who also runs his own on road and has dedicated off roaders as well. A guy and friend who I've trusted implicitly since my ownership. Being disabled and unable to work, my weekly journeys are stop start. I average around 50 - 80 miles per week, all local trips, Drs, appointments, mums, shopping etc etc The problem is? well it began or became noticeable to me earlier this week. A rattle that sounds BAD. I took my car to mechanic who could not put a definite "its that" to the rattle. Poking and listening with a sth ethascope he thinks it is associated with the timing chains, which have not needed to be worked upon. Though it will be a first, providing that that is what the noise and problem is. But, he seems to recall that there are some tension chain adjusters which can cause this rattle. On tick over it is quite loud, but when building revs it quietens somewhat and blends with the engine noise until revs reduce. Has anyone else had this problem? knows of it? any thoiughts will be gladly appreciated. IK need my car as KI'm diksabled and at 6ft 3" its the only car I can easily get in and out of.

Regards
Michael
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
222 Posts
You are probably not going to like this, but I would suggest a look at your camshaft.
They are known to round off a lobe or two and that could be the clatter, or maybe, a failed lifter.
A compression test would be a start towards diagnosing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You are probably not going to like this, but I would suggest a look at your camshaft.
They are known to round off a lobe or two and that could be the clatter, or maybe, a failed lifter.
A compression test would be a start towards diagnosing it.
Ouch! Thanks JohnnoK. I'll suggest this to mech tomorrow. Fingers crossed it won't be this.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
485 Posts
I might be wrong but don't they have a rubber belt not a chain , in that case it could be a bad bearing on a tensioner maybe??? not familiar with that model motor.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
222 Posts
You are probably not going to like this, but I would suggest a look at your camshaft.
They are known to round off a lobe or two and that could be the clatter, or maybe, a failed lifter.
A compression test would be a start towards diagnosing it.
OK, good news.... stupid boy didn't read properly. It's the V8s that round the lobes off, so you can breathe again, and I will retreat in silence. :-}
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
It does sound like a timing chain problem. There are two chains: a lower one from the crank to the FIP and an upper one from the FIP to the camshaft. They both have chain guides and tensioners.
107 000 miles is not a lot on these BMW engines. Problems often surface from 150 000 to 200 000 when the chains become stretched through wear, altering the pump timing. It becomes hard to start when hot, requiring the FIP to be retimed. Is yours hard to start when hot? However they don't become noisy like you have described. These engines often do 300 000 miles+.
Replacing the timing chains and associated bits is a biggish job. The head has to come off requiring new stretch bolts and gaskets as well as the new timing chain bits. I wouldn't start on that until you have eliminated everything else.
Check the fan is not catching on the radiator first. I had that happen to me making an awful sound. You may need to take the radiator shroud off to get better access to the front of the engine.
Check the viscous fan unit and water pump. There is a long serpentine belt at the front of the engine. Check the tensioner bearing. See if there is anything loose and rattling. The aircon pulley can also give problems. Take the small belt off the compressor.
Nobody has problems with the camshaft on the diesel. However the hydraulic tappets sometimes need one or two replacing. This would generate a tapping noise not what you have described.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
NO problem at ALL John. I thank you for reading and responding to my original post, as indeed I am grateful yop you and ALL who have taken the tkime to respond! Knowledge iks power and who knows, maybe ikn posts to come, I may state your thoughts and save some other time and money in their investigations! Cheers Friend! `)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
As of yesterday Monday 12th Nov. Cars now with mech. He seemed worried that the problem is with the timing chains themselves. But will start with the areas covered in the replies stated. Fingers and everything else crossed. Watch this space
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Dear All
Well, I'm still going to be a P38a owner!! Mech rang last night to say that itIS the crankshaft pulley that is terminal. PHEW!!! I'm SAFE with my mech. 17+ years hes worked on my car. He doesn't rip me off, he's quite Excellent.
Mech has asked me to check the Best Prices available, LR want over £500 and don't have any off shelf at present. Other trades parts he uses are not as dear but ion comparison to Ebay (New) they cannot match. At moment I have best price £150. Any advice of non rip off parts deaers wolrth uising?
Thanks

As of yesterday Monday 12th Nov. Cars now with mech. He seemed worried that the problem is with the timing chains themselves. But will start with the areas covered in the replies stated. Fingers and everything else crossed. Watch this space
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,416 Posts
Must have been well shot to make a noise like that.

It is a bit more than a pulley. it is a BMW part known as a vibration damper and is rubber in the middle.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/pulley-vibration-damper-crankshaft-corteco-stc2102-stc3345-p-1296.html

A special tool is needed to hold the crank while you undo the central nut.

https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/crankshaft-pulley-holding-tool-britpart-da6133-p-35063.html

When I took mine off a while back, it required nearly 300 ft lbs of torque. Your mech will need a 3/4" torque wrench.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top