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Discussion Starter #1
Guys and Gals, how many of you use your factory rims with a larger tire to get a taller side wall?
Here's My Lovely Bride's over built grocery getter, 2004. She wants to downsize to an Evoque. Fine with me because I'm going to take over this and have some fun away from the Supermarket parking lot.
Yes a lift, smaller rims and different tires always allows beefier rubber to greet the road and trail, goes without saying, right?
You guys have done some amazing build and mods to your chariots.
But I'm still uncertain wether or not an extra 2" overall would fit with her in the "Standard" road height.
Attached is what I've been able to gleen from the interweb as far as a side by side comparison.

In the Chart, Size 1 is the Factory tire size. And currently the tire size on the car in the pic.
Thoughts...would a 255-65-19 fit without rubbing?

If any of you have done what I'm asking about, if you have pics, please post.
Thx
Cheers!
Randall
 

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I think it would be better to go with smaller 18" wheels as you get much better tire choice. I currently have 19" wheels and the most aggressive tires I could find are Goodyear Duratrac's which are fairly mild for off road use.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I think it would be better to go with smaller 18" wheels as you get much better tire choice. I currently have 19" wheels and the most aggressive tires I could find are Goodyear Duratrac's which are fairly mild for off road use.
Thx for your reply. Love this place.
Totally agree 100% with your suggestion of going to an 18" rim. That absolutely would give me copious amounts of options available as far as tire size.

Being that you still have 19" rims, did you change get those GY's? Different size vs the factory 255-55-19?

Still very curious if a 32" would fit without a lift kit?
 

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My Cooper Zeon 275/55/20's are 31.93" in diameter and they are about as far as you can go without modifying your inner wheelwells. My tires do hit the inner wheelwell on the front of the front wheels when turned full lock either left or right the right tire hits turning to the left and the left tire hits turning to the right. It's really only brushing against the plastic wheel well slightly but I do worry about the right wheelwell where it is slotted for air flow under the ECM weatherproof box. I'm afraid the lugs on the tire will catch on one of those slots and pull the wheelwell out, so I have to make sure I don't go full lock at roadway height. The tires listed above are a little narrower so you may not have that issue, as its caused by a combination of the tire diameter, width (mine are 11.2" wide) and the backspacing of the wheels. The next closest spot is in the right rear wheelwell where the fuel fill pipe bump in the wheelwell is located. I've got about 1/2" of clearance from that spot.

Theres a couple of pictures in this thread:

https://www.rangerovers.net/forum/6-range-rover-mark-iii-l322/331316-score-week.html
 

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Thx for your reply. Love this place.
Totally agree 100% with your suggestion of going to an 18" rim. That absolutely would give me copious amounts of options available as far as tire size.

Being that you still have 19" rims, did you change get those GY's? Different size vs the factory 255-55-19?

Still very curious if a 32" would fit without a lift kit?
Changing the tires was the first thing I did when I first got my L322. At the time the Duratracs were the best I could get in the standard 255/55/R19 size. The speed rating on the Atturo tires in that size at that time was "L"...70mph otherwise I would have gone with them. The latest version has a better speed rating so i might be temped to go to them next tire change. At the same time I got rid of the useless wheel nuts and put a set of solid wheel nuts on that cant be damaged just by looking at them!!!
 

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Hi Randall I have found that the bolts that hold the upper latch of the hatch get loose,
so do the lower latch catch bolts on the tailgate.

and the inner workings of the upper latch can fail and then the lights wont go out in the hatch when you close it,
this will leave a dead battery
 

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I’ve been using Goodyear Wrangler Dura Tracs. They are 255/55/19’s using the stock rims. I looked this up on a land rover site and found that the factory had equipped cars like this for off-road teams. So far it is working very well.I also used a 2 inch lift kit for the air suspension which was relatively inexpensive and took me less than an hour to install. These tires are 1 inch larger so it lifted the car half an inch up so it now has a 2 1/2 inch lift anove the factory specs. I have no rubbing and it has worked very nicely. It also saved me from buying an extra set of wheels. 18s will give you a much wider choice of tires though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My Cooper Zeon 275/55/20's are 31.93" in diameter and they are about as far as you can go without modifying your inner wheelwells. My tires do hit the inner wheelwell on the front of the front wheels when turned full lock either left or right the right tire hits turning to the left and the left tire hits turning to the right. It's really only brushing against the plastic wheel well slightly but I do worry about the right wheelwell where it is slotted for air flow under the ECM weatherproof box.
Thx for the reply. Good real world info.?


Guys,
Everything in my soul is screaming to get a set of smaller rims, slap on a set of lift rods and throw on a set of aggressive 32" tires and hit the trail.

Who doesn't want a more aggressive looking 4x4, right?

BUT........(and there's always a but)

At the moment I'm not going to spend any coin on new rims. I actually like them. The attached pic is with the factory 255/55/19's.
With the Advent of Plasti Dip, I can change the color at will.
So it comes down to tires.

The usage for my chariot is still going to be a lot of highway and local around town miles.

Seems like a 32"ish will fit without a lift. But they may give me some puckered butt cheeks moments when the wheel is hard over.

What about splitting the difference?

255/xxx/19
55's are 30"
60's are 31"
65's are 32"

Anyone running 60's? (31" overall height)

And.....

Does the extra side wall affect the highway handling?
 

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As long as you stick to a tire diameter less than 32 and a width less than 11, say 31.50 by 10.5 you should have no issues on a set of stock range rover rims. Stock 255/55/19 are 29.3" tall, by 10" wide. 265/55/19 would be about 30.50 in diameter by 10.5" wide. 275/60/19 are 31.9" tall and 10.8" wide roughly the same size as my 275/55/20 Zeons and you will be living on the edge. Different manufacturers tires will have slightly different diameters and widths for the same advertised sizes based on if they are P or LT rated and the size and shape of the lugs on the edge of the tires. Some of these sizes (like the 275/60/19) may not even be available. Note that the larger diameter effectively lowers your final drive ratio, which kills some of your low end power and acceleration.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Time to take this thread to a another dimension concerning my factory 19" rims.

- Lift Rods

The frustration with owning a 2004 is the limited availability of options to get this truck up higher on a permanent basis to support the easy to find 32" tire for my stock 19" rims.

Strutmasters and Atlantic British air to coil keeps standard drive height.
No lift option available through them.

A few questions about lift rods: (if I can find some that fit. REMEMBER SHE'S A 2004)
1. What is the long term affect on the air ride suspension?
2.With the truck up higher and having 32" rubber on the road how will she feel on the Interstate and around town?

Thx guys for humoring me.
Maybe this thread will help others too.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Instead of starting a new thread I want to add to this.
All of these questions still have to do with fitting a taller tire on factory rims.

New thought....

It seems like a 32" tire without a lift will work but will rub the well when hard over, right?

What about Wheel Adapters?

A "Spacer" will do the same thing as an Adapter. I don't like the idea of loosing threads on the lug.

So, would using a wheel adapter that would move the entire wheel further out prevent wheel well rubbing?

Personally I don't want to run a 2" lift full time.

Are any of you guys running spacers/adapters?

Do you think this idea makes sense and would work?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For those of you who are using lift rods, ie 2"-2.5" is that what the normal "Off Road" height would be?

What would be the lift in Off Road mode without using rods?
AND.....

When using lift rods, do you get even more lift when you switch to Off Rode mode?

My wife has been driving the truck for 11 years.
I never thought much about tricking out the suspension and tires until we started talking about getting her an Range Rover Evoque.

This place has been awesome.
And you guys are great.
Never a snarky reply to anyone's questions.
Guys, that is huge!!!
Not all forums are like this.
 

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All of your ride heights will increase by whatever the difference is in length of the original rods and the newer longer rides. If the difference in length is 2", then access height will be 2" higher, normal mode will be 2" higher and offroad will be 2" higher. Don't know if you can extend the super extended mode by 2" without running out of shock strut rod length (the length of the piston rod when it reaches the top of the strut housing is a mechanical limit). For an offroad only vehicle 2" or 2.5" might be good, but for an all around mostly on road vehicle 2" higher is probably to high (note I don't know how much "longer" these Johnson rods are compared to stock rods).

Changing it with the software is a better way to go if your not setting up an offroad rig, because you can increase it in small increments (although it does take some playing around with the settings) until you find the happy medium that works with whatever tires you end up with. Then you can set the software settings back to stock and swap over to proper length rods if you want.

Using spacers is a risk, if the tires are wider than stock, if you push them out to much you run the risk of hitting the fender lip, in my case I don't think I have but 1/2" of space between the tire and the lip of the rear fender openings on compression or in access height. Again maybe lifting it up high enough will prevent that problem. Also on the front wheels moving the tires out will actually increase the distance from the pivot point of the wheels to the outside edge of the tires increasing the likelyhood of hitting the front fender liner, or the very front lower edge of the fender. The pivot point of the front wheels is the bottom of the front struts which for the most part are completely behind the inner edge of the wheel, its not at the point on the hub where the wheel bolts to. Its a math problem.

I know people get 22" tires under these things, but they must be running on tires with a really low aspect ratio (like 35 or 45) and they probably run really rough.
 

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