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Discussion Starter #1
Folks,

I did my OC last week. Since the 2nd OC, I've been using Castrol Syntec 0w30, also when I purchase the oil, I ensure that its Made in Germany rather than the ones made in USA to ensure its a true Group 4 base synthetic oil.

I sent the oil for analysis, which I do after ever OC to trend my engine to check for how the oil has been handling and to check fro wear metals for prognosis of potential issues. After 10,094 miles, the oils still had enough additive to keep protecting the engine for at least another 2 k miles. Even though I had 10k miles on the oil, it showed as if the oil had only run for about 3k miles.

This sheds 2 things. With 60k+ miles, the RRS engine is running great, and that doing an OC too frequent is really not wroth it if running a good synthetic oil rather than a synthetic blend that LR recommends.
 

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Good info Frisco, thanks (consistent with what I keep reading about synth oils, replacing them too often is at the very least a big waste of money.) FWIW, for MY2006-2009 gas engines - both N/A and S/C - Land Rover recommends Castrol GTX, which is not even a synthetic blend, just garden variety conventional oil (to be replaced every 6 months or 7500 miles.) On 2010+ engines they doubled up the service interval between oil changes, but now recommend a "specially formulated", full synthetic oil - Castrol SLX - that might be tough to source outside of a dealership, at least for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I believe you can buy SLX from a GM or VW dealer and possibly BMW. There may be a few flavors of SLX out there. The oil analysis on a SLX is very similar to Castrol Syntec 5w30. However if you want to get technical, its not a true PAO (true synthetic in simple terms). So rather pay an extra $1 or more per qt and get the the 0W30 Castrol Syntec which is true PAO.

Also LR may be going to SLX due to its extended drain interval, and its similarity of a 5w30; which is to avoid the slight ticking noise from the engine.

Umbertob, as you stated, in addition, it takes time for the additive in the oil to kick it, which are usually "heat activated." So depending on how much you drive and distance, it could sometimes take 1k miles for your engine to be protected - so changing your oil to early is actually causing more issues \ wear.
 

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Frisco...I'd be a little hesitant to run 0-30, I know it gets hotter and colder up there in Frisco vs. here in Houston, but I think 10w-30 should suffice, maybe 5W-30

Interestingly enough, even using Royal Purple, once I get to about 7500 miles, I do see some performance sluggishness in the vehicle, which immediately goes away with an oil change...so I'm interested to now try the brand you are using...that sounds like a good option, and better than Royal Purple?

Cheers.
 

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Uh-oh an oil thread :naughty:

Good info Frisco. Anyhoo, I will be switching over to completely synthetic once my free oil changes are done, and changing out at 15K as long as I'm not driving around in too much dust.

But I swear Castrol really eff'd up the oil business when they won the FTC ruling on "synthetic" vs Mobil a decade ago. It just ended up more confusing now that any base oil can be called synthetic if you beat it up enough with catalyst. The true synthetics are straight chain PAO/ester/alkylated naphthalene combos, basically Group 4/5 combinations. Back in the day, Mobil 1 was this way. I'm not sure what is today. I need to check with my buddies over at ExxonMobil to see if anything they make today is as good as what was made before this ruling. Maybe the Mobil 1 motorcycle oils are. Mobil used to sell all the ingredients to make pure synthetics to Amsoil and Red Line as well--not sure if they're still blending the 100% real stuff there either since the ruling.

And Frisco, I'm w Paul on this, assuming you don't drive in really cold weather, and don't give a rats ass about CAFE standards, why not use 10W in the summer and 5W in winter in your area? I still have some vintage 100% synthetic Mobil 1 20W50 in my garage that I'm saving for a special occasion. :D
 

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gooseyloosey said:
I still have some vintage 100% synthetic Mobil 1 20W50 in my garage that I'm saving for a special occasion. :D

Ooh...a drinking party! BYOO - Bring your own oil!!!
 

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PJPR01 said:
gooseyloosey said:
I still have some vintage 100% synthetic Mobil 1 20W50 in my garage that I'm saving for a special occasion. :D

Ooh...a drinking party! BYOO - Bring your own oil!!!
I'm imagining oil drenched, hungover RRS's up on cinder blocks on my front lawn with discarded funnels all over the place the next morning... Matt Leinhart would be proud.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sorry folks - did not mean to turn the RRS forum into a oil forum

PJPR01 - You are right gets hot up here. The 0w gets confused quite a bit and holds up well in this heat. I don't think there is a true synthetic oil that is not 0w. The Castrol I use has a viscocity of 11.27 which is pretty high, and since its PAO based, it will not break down and hold up well. The true PAO's are Group 4 and 5 base oils.

Anthing that is 5w or 10w are usually group 3, which the new SLX seems to be. The oil analysis of the SLX is very similar to the Syntec 5w30, unless you go with the Professional SLX , and I think is called LL04 which seems to be a Group 4 base oil.

Let me know before you do an OC with your royal purple. Like to send that for analysis, willing to pay for it, just to see the difference.

I sent my oil to Blackstone and Stavely, both to ensure the analysis is was accurate - they both stated that the oil was still good. The additive for protection could have lasted for at least another 2k miles, must everything else looked like wear after 3k miles. Being that we have a big sump, I guess that helps.

GooseyLoosey - Even during my free OC's, I took castrol syntec to the dealer to use rather than the GTX stuff they were putting in. The Castrol GTX that is recommended by LR has lower viscocity of 10.8. Since this is a conventional oil, this will breakdown faster due to heat and pressure, most probably sheer down to 9.x

The Castrol Syntec 0w30, and on the back of the bottle which states Made in Germany is in my option the only better oil they have. Anything else seems to be a just as good as Mobil, eg M1 5w30 which is a group 3, so you might as well get Penzoil Platinum. The Castol Syntec 0w30 meets the Ford's Spec that our RRS is set to, as well as the Mercedes 229.5x Spec. Seems like anything made in Europe seems to be the true syn oil, either group 4 or 5. The M1 European formula is the same way - group 4 based. If its a made is USA, strong chance its Groupp 3. I've just changed from M1 European Formula to Castrol Syntec 0w30 on my Mercedes and it seems to run better. There used to be a ticking noise inherent to M113 engines that has disappeared.
 

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I meant the oil thread thing jokingly.

So Frisco, I haven't been keeping up with things on this front much these days, but everything now over 0W from the major "synthetic" mfgrs is likely Grp 3 you're saying? Arrgh.

I believe the reason that the major brands in Europe are still real synthetics, is that they(BP), the folks bringing you Castrol and the Macondo well, did not get the same ruling over there.

If I'm going to change it myself every 15K, I want Group 4/5 oil in there. Oh well, I may be forced to pay up for Red Line or search around for the European stuff as you have.
 

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Here's what I found out from someone who knows quite a bit about Mobil 1. Can't speak for Castrol here.

Just because Mobil 1 (of any viscosity) is made in Europe does not mean it does not contain a Group 3 base oil. They blend various amounts of Group 3 in both markets. Fwiw, the Mobil 1 grades with the least amount of Group 3 are 15w50 and 0w40.

So, looks like I will be buying Red Line 5w30 to get 12-15K.
 

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I'm confused again...

Frisco - that would be cool...I'll save a sample on the next OC.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
gooseyloosey said:
So, looks like I will be buying Red Line 5w30 to get 12-15K.
gooseyloosey - RedLine is a really good oil. Redline seems to have a higher ester content than other oils and since ester is a polar molecule, it tends to stick to parts. Keep in mind that RL may not be able to go the long drain intervals (should be fine for 10-12K mile drains, though). One drawback to RL is if you get too much moisture in the crankcase, the water will chemically break down the esters (happens to all motor oils that have a high ester content). This should be fine for those of us that do a lot of longer drives to work or honey do's which allows the engine to heat up to expel any moisture, not a short soccer mom ride for 5-10 minutes.

Mobil1 has lost some respect amount the folks who track the oil analysis. I still think the Mobil1 European Forumla is a Group 4 based on my research, and analysis, could be wrong.

Only the Castrol Syntec 0W30 (made in Germany) has the reputation of being a group iv, the Made in USA as stated earlier, based on analysis is not .
 

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G'Day gents.

I agree with the Loose Goose references and have experienced both the 'Mobil and Redline' product ranges with respect to motorsport & any daily driving stuff !
I've been under the impression since most of the european stuff needed to work on air-cooled Porsches and the like, they required much higher heat tolerances due to ze Germans running the thermostats at 92 degrees celcius, or even vehicles from the northern hemisphere winters suitably specified with strange grades.

The "Mobil1" range from earlier applications just doesn't seem to provide the protection from start up near sub-zero temperatures which I've felt in another car, and since the Rangies run Alloy V8's that are heat sensitive the Redline products give just that bit better level of confidence I want with extended oil changes ?

Cheerio,


Vinniman
'88 Highline
Perth, W.A.
 

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Frisco_TX_RRS said:
gooseyloosey said:
So, looks like I will be buying Red Line 5w30 to get 12-15K.
gooseyloosey - RedLine is a really good oil. Redline seems to have a higher ester content than other oils and since ester is a polar molecule, it tends to stick to parts. Keep in mind that RL may not be able to go the long drain intervals (should be fine for 10-12K mile drains, though). One drawback to RL is if you get too much moisture in the crankcase, the water will chemically break down the esters (happens to all motor oils that have a high ester content). This should be fine for those of us that do a lot of longer drives to work or honey do's which allows the engine to heat up to expel any moisture, not a short soccer mom ride for 5-10 minutes.

Mobil1 has lost some respect amount the folks who track the oil analysis. I still think the Mobil1 European Forumla is a Group 4 based on my research, and analysis, could be wrong.

Only the Castrol Syntec 0W30 (made in Germany) has the reputation of being a group iv, the Made in USA as stated earlier, based on analysis is not .
Good points Frisco. I'm not there yet, but once I'm changing it myself can I send your guys a sample @ 7.5K, and if that looks good, @10-12K to see how far I can push it. :thumb:
 

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To all,



Firstly let me say I don't get into lubricating oils characteristics and properties very deeply. I'm not saying it's impossible, but I find it hard to believe that anyone can tell the difference between any GOOD quality motor oil in the way an engine runs. If your talking about transmission fluid where friction and predetermined slippage comes into play, there can be a world of difference. As for 0w oil in hot climates, they "may" flow a tad quicker on cold starts which "may" be an advantage. As for 2010 Land Rovers and Jaguars, I have attached some photos of the OE oil and the Mobil 1 oil I use. The reason I use that Mobil 1 is because it's cheap and readily available, not because of some preconceived notion that it's the best. Both of these oils say they are made from domestic and imported components. ibis1 ;)[attachment=2:3qrfpbd1]DSCF1009.JPG[/attachment:3qrfpbd1][attachment=1:3qrfpbd1]DSCF1010.JPG[/attachment:3qrfpbd1][attachment=0:3qrfpbd1]DSCF1011.JPG[/attachment:3qrfpbd1]
 

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I didn't know Castrol is owned by BP. Let's scoop it up for free in the Gulf of Mexico.

ibis, I understand very little about the esoteric aspects of motor oils myself, but why would you use a 5W-40 oil on an engine that recommends 5W-20 viscosity, such as the 2010 Land Rovers?
 

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umbertob said:
I didn't know Castrol is owned by BP. Let's scoop it up for free in the Gulf of Mexico.
`)
Hey Umberto, you don't need to go that far to get free oil. Take a shovel and a pail and head down to the beach by the El Segundo refinery and start digging. Its old Chevron oil, but as long as you're not particular about who spilled it.
 

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umbertob said:
I didn't know Castrol is owned by BP. Let's scoop it up for free in the Gulf of Mexico.

ibis, I understand very little about the esoteric aspects of motor oils myself, but why would you use a 5W-40 oil on an engine that recommends 5W-20 viscosity, such as the 2010 Land Rovers?
umbertob,

I'm sorry if I gave you the impression that I drive an 2010 Land Rover. I don't, but if I did I would use the recommended oil at least until the warranty expired. ibis1 ;)
 
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