I know its an easy job but its all we've done on the RR since I bought her Monday and I'd like to try to start and contribute as early as possible. So lets get on it.
Our project vehicle is a 1993 County Classic Range Rover. Here's what you'll need:
1 torque wrench
1 socket wrench (recommended: 3/4 with 3 inch extension)
1 14mm socket
1 swivel extension (if you don't have this, bring a hearty list of pre-prescribed swear words you don't mind neighbors hearing).
1 13mm socket
1 crowbar
utility razor blade
fine grit sandpaper
replacement gaskets
an hour and a half of time to devote to the project; up to three depending on skill.
Step through:
Removal
1 Remove the heatshield on the under side of the manifold.
With the 13mm socket attached, remove two bolts and washers holding the heatshield to the underside of the exhaust manifold. Use of the 3 inch extension is suggested. If you have difficulty with the back bolt, consider using the swivel attachment to break it loose.
See picture of removal
[img=http://img114.imageshack.us/img114/7964/rr1.th.jpg]
and removed part:
[img=http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/3038/rr2f.th.jpg]
2 Remove the spark plug wires as these may impede reassembly. Remember to mark the wires and their proper order for reassembly.
[img=http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/7505/rr002.th.jpg]
3 Loosen the 8 bolts holding the exhaust manifold in place. We found the ideal length for working with these bolts was attained with a 14 mm 1/2 deep well socket and a 3/4 inch converter. The 3-inch will work as well. The bolts were only torqued down to 15, so they weren't a bear to get loose. But expect rust to have built up on them and the manifold over time. This can make finding proper purchase a pain.
Again, the swivel extension is recommended if you have difficulty getting a bite on the back bolts.
4 Remove the bolts and washers and set aside
5 with the crowbar, gently wiggle/pry the manifold back until you there is about a half inch gap between it and the block. It is reccommeneded that you wedge the manifold in place while you work. We used a small wooden wedge. Notice: BE GENTLE WITH THE CROWBAR! You're making a small gap; you are not trying to actually bend anything.
6 with your utility razor blade, scrape clean the area on the block and manifold where the old gaskets may have stuck when they failed. It is suggested that you rub the areas down with fine grit sandpaper as well.
[img=http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6760/rr006.th.jpg]
Reassembly.
7 Insert the new gaskets into the space between the manifold and the engine. It is suggested to slip the front gasket under the manifold and the rear gasket over the manifold. Depending on the gap created in step four it may be easier for you to try other directions.
See picture for proper fitting of gasket. The left of the gasket is the rear of the manifold.
[img=http://img374.imageshack.us/img374/7973/rr005.jpg]
8 Finger tighten the bolts back into place. We found it easiest to push up on the manifold slightly while starting them. Doing so removes the gap made by the crowbar previously. The wider the gap you make, the harder you have to push now.
Aside: if the heads of your bolts were rusty like ours but otherwise in good shape they can be saved. With your sandpaper (or a file if they're really bad, as some of ours were) scrape off the rust before you reinsert them.
9 Tighten down the bolts clockwise for each gasket. Torque them down to 15.
10 Bolt the heatshield back in place.
11 Plug the sparkplug wires back in; noting their proper order as per 2.
Crank your Thing up; should sound a lot better now
And heck, that took longer to write than it did to do
