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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
paper work states they took the motor out! I would never have that shop work on my Rangi, When I called that guy he said even if the car is burning oil at a Qt. every 500 miles
he would still not do the rings { dick Head }

Thanks Martin
Scotty
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,248 Posts
Scotty said:
paper work states they took the motor out! I would never have that shop work on my Rangi, When I called that guy he said even if the car is burning oil at a Qt. every 500 miles
he would still not do the rings { dick Head }

Thanks Martin
Scotty
holy crap!!!!!! :naughty:
that is just wrong, they didnt even measure the bores it sounds like mate.
if it were me, i would pull the motor, pull the heads and check them really good.
strip it all down and go from there.
hopefully, the cam, lifters and valve train are all really good, along with the heads.
that will leave you with the bores themselves and the crank.
if the crank is fine, and all bearings look ok (plastigauge before ripping it apart), then replace the rod and main bearings and check the liners for runout and clearance. you may need a machine shop if you do not have the runout calipers, i cant remember how much they are. regular calipers will work for the measurement of the bores themselves.
i think you will find the problem inside the liners, hopefully new rings will cure it, if not then research how much you can safely bore them and have the block bored and honed to the new pistons.

martin
 

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G'Day Scotty,
Well interesting senario,note in all the i read threads that you haven't yet removed your spark plugs and compared for oil burn.Also have you done another compression test,done properally can reveal a worn cylinder or rings? Maybe the head job was botched and a valve guides are worn or a guide seal damaged or cheap or wrong . Last what oil do you use didn't look to see what country and area you live but a 15w/50 with some Lucas I/2 litre or 1/2 a bottle may help :thumb: If you have no oil leaks ,the motor runs smooth and runs well ,apart from the above and pay attenion to oil as its only a push rod motor,this maybe the simple answer rather than spending out on a rebuild now :think:
 

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Before you start 'ripping into' anything, I'd check/clean both of the PCV hoses (and the oil separator). Get them all in good shape. Also, remember that you can't just replace with 'heater hose' pipework for these connections - you need to use 'vaccuum rated' hose or they will collapse!! After getting these fixed, monitor the oil level/usage over the next 200/500/1000 miles and see if it has changed. If the the oil-separator/high-vacuum PCV hose is blocked, then a surprisingly large amount of oil can be ejected out of the other (low-vacuum) PCV hose directly into the throttle body and consumed by the engine that way.

If you are still loosing lots of oil, then I'd get a 'leakdown' test done on the cylinders/engine, to find out how quickly each cylinder is leaking.

P.S. are you realllllly sure you have no leaks? It'll be one of the few LRs ever, if so.... :)
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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scotty,
i would for sure do what was said above mate. i was working under the assumption that you did basic tests, but maybe i just got too carried away. :shhh:
do the above then post up the results.

thanks

martin
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Thank you guys so much for your input I have replaced the PVC hoses with factory, and I have cleaned the oil seperator as suggested, And still no change I'll tell ya I have done no testing what so ever! I use 10/40 75k Val. I like the thought of changing to a 50 weight oil with the Lucas. I will take the plugs out and start doing some test as suggested.then do a follow up post. Yes this is the RANGI With NO LEAKS!!! I have steam cleaned the engine and underneath it's clean spotless really and my drive way is white and spot free.

Scotty
 

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Scotty,while ya on line now that your ventalation is now clear to check if she is breathing and not blowing while running remove the oil filler cap and place slowly back to its home posi if ventilation is good it should suck the cap into place ,should hear it drawing air threw the filler cap.
Sth California is a warm climiate? if so the higher Vis oil would be better.
 

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One other thing, make sure that the 'pipe stubs' that the PCV hoses connect to, are free flowing also. One fairly well known blockage point, is where the hose on the header tank side, connects to the big plenum on the intake manifold. Take a 3mm/ 4mm/ 1/8" drill bit, put it into the hole on the side of the intake manifold and turn by hand to make sure that it isn't blocked there.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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scotty,
will be loading in san diego tuesday am mate. i am currently in nevada, so will be running back roads to I15, then down. let me know if that is going by you etc. shoot me a pm if it is, be nice to meet another fellow member!

martin
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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2,064 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Thank you guys, I just got home from work, I'll go out and try some these ideas in a little bit..And post updates.
Martin I sent you a P.M.

Scotty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Any more updates on this after.... "make sure that the 'pipe stubs' that the PCV hoses connect to, are free flowing also. One fairly well known blockage point, is where the hose on the header tank side, connects to the big plenum on the intake manifold. Take a 3mm/ 4mm/ 1/8" drill bit, put it into the hole on the side of the intake manifold and turn by hand to make sure that it isn't blocked there"?

I have the same issue (and a LEAK FREE P38A with 180,000 miles)....and have not had the PCV hoses nor EGR done....By the way...it is leak free because we replaced ALL engine gaskets 6 months ago.

Thanks,

Dave
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Dave,
He rebuilt the motor in it, and it's trouble free now.
It was rebuilt by some Yahoo's many moons ago, but now he did it himself it's trouble free

Martin
 
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