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PSA. L405, and presumably L494 + L462

IF THIS ISSUE IS PRESENT- DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR WITHOUT OPENING A WINDOW- IT WILL LOCK ITSELF REPEATEDLY GIVING NO CHANCE TO UNLOCK VIA FOB NOR PHYSICAL KEY- THERE IS A CHANCE THE ALARM WILL SOUND IF THE VEHICLE REMAINS CLOSED WITH NO WAY OF STOPPING IT

If you have all lights on dash, including but not limited to:

Park brake fault
ABS fault
Traction control fault
Airbag fault
Normal ride height only
CEL
Stop/Start inactive
Terrain Response not available
Adaptive Cruise not available
Lane monitoring not available
Blind spot not available
Surround view not available
Park assist Fault
Restricted Performance

Along with a "Hood Open" message, non functioning remote key, non functioning door locks/doors locking themselves when closing, Left OR Right headlight inoperative, inoperative or reduced power steering, speedometer inoperative, and the inability to turn off the vehicle ignition.



When scanned, a canbus fault is found on line "B" in every module. The ABS module does not communicate with a scan tool. The issue can be intermittent before becoming current!

IF THIS ISSUE IS PRESENT- DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR WITHOUT OPENING A WINDOW- IT WILL LOCK ITSELF REPEATEDLY


This is caused by a ground connection (Circled in Red) on the front frame rail behind the forward wheel arch liner, Left hand side of the vehicle for LH steer cars, Right hand side of the vehicle for RH steer cars.

The correct repair is to drill out the rivnut in the frame, replace it, install a new stud, clean the original connections, torque to 10NM, and cover in a corrosion inhibitor.

A field repair can be done by simply using the T-30 (Circled in Blue) bolt above the original ground point. This is a collision sensor and so it is not feasible for a long-term solution. Tools needed are: 13mm spanner/socket, T30, Phillips #2, Trim tool/Pick tool, and needle-nose pliers to assist in removing the plastic push rivets. The rivets are extremely soft plastic and will likely break on removal.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Car

Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Motor vehicle
Speedometer Odometer Vehicle Tachometer Steering part


I hope this post will come in handy for someone. I imagine this is mainly an issue for folks that live in areas that use rock salt in the winter. My truck lived in Canada and Illinois for all of its life so far, even if it got a carwash every week I still found lots of leftover salt in the affected area.
 
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Santorini Black L405 V8 SC SWB
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PSA. L405, and presumably L494 + L462

IF THIS ISSUE IS PRESENT- DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR WITHOUT OPENING A WINDOW- IT WILL LOCK ITSELF REPEATEDLY GIVING NO CHANCE TO UNLOCK VIA FOB NOR PHYSICAL KEY- THERE IS A CHANCE THE ALARM WILL SOUND IF THE VEHICLE REMAINS CLOSED WITH NO WAY OF STOPPING IT

If you have all lights on dash, including but not limited to:

Park brake fault
ABS fault
Traction control fault
Airbag fault
Normal ride height only
CEL
Stop/Start inactive
Terrain Response not available
Adaptive Cruise not available
Lane monitoring not available
Blind spot not available
Surround view not available
Park assist Fault
Restricted Performance

Along with a "Hood Open" message, non functioning remote key, non functioning door locks/doors locking themselves when closing, Left OR Right headlight inoperative, inoperative or reduced power steering, speedometer inoperative, and the inability to turn off the vehicle ignition.



When scanned, a canbus fault is found on line "B" in every module. The ABS module does not communicate with a scan tool. The issue can be intermittent before becoming current!

IF THIS ISSUE IS PRESENT- DO NOT CLOSE THE DOOR WITHOUT OPENING A WINDOW- IT WILL LOCK ITSELF REPEATEDLY


This is caused by a ground connection (Circled in Red) on the front frame rail behind the forward wheel arch liner, Left hand side of the vehicle for LH steer cars, Right hand side of the vehicle for RH steer cars.

The correct repair is to drill out the rivnut in the frame, replace it, install a new stud, clean the original connections, torque to 10NM, and cover in a corrosion inhibitor.

A field repair can be done by simply using the T-30 (Circled in Blue) bolt above the original ground point. This is a collision sensor and so it is not feasible for a long-term solution. Tools needed are: 13mm spanner/socket, T30, Phillips #2, Trim tool/Pick tool, and needle-nose pliers to assist in removing the plastic push rivets. The rivets are extremely soft plastic and will likely break on removal. View attachment 306999
View attachment 306998 View attachment 306997

I hope this post will come in handy for someone. I imagine this is mainly an issue for folks that live in areas that use rock salt in the winter. My truck lived in Canada and Illinois for all of its life so far, even if it got a carwash every week I still found lots of leftover salt in the affected area.
great write up. I’m sure this will help quite a few people eventually!
 
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