[Big te]

Hi

guys sorry got got a fault on air suspension lhf can't lower valve stuck how do I find the valve in question sorry but new to this air system but know my way around a car help

thanks

Trevor

 

[DFNDTHIS]

Not sure I understand your problem. You have EAS fault and believe a valve is stuck? Do you have a code reader or EAS reset tool?

 

[Big te]

Yes read the coads and reset all ok for a while then hard fault can't lower l/h front valve stuck reset and ok then the same again reaching target height lowers to motorway and returns then after a while same again

 

[Orangebean]

"ANY CORNER VALVE STUCK OPEN, CLOSED, OR CANNOT LOWER
This is set when the system is unable to make a sensor’s output reach its demanded value."

Are you using EASUnlock to read/ reset your codes?
So could be a sensor problem, or a bag/ line leak (or, of course, an actual valve problem). After the easy bit of checking for a leak, I'd test the sensor with a multimeter to check that it's tracking OK, then swap the sensor with it's opposite number to see if the fault moves with it.

 

[NorCal RR]

Could also be a bad driver block. I had "valve stuck" and swapped solenoid valves to find that the problem didn't follow the valve. Driver blocks have a pretty high mortality rate, at least the originals did. My replacement has been good for around 11 years.

 

[pwood999]

Before swapping the driver pack, check each of the 12 pins & sockets in the multiway connector between driver pack & solenoids. I have seen several where the housing is tight, but the individual pins are loose & making intermittent contact with the respective socket. Easy way is to remove one pin, and manually try inserting into each socket in turn. You will soon find the loose offender. Then gently squeeze the socket to ensure good contact.

If the connection to any solenoid is intermittent, then when the EAS ECU tries to adjust height, it doesn't see expected changes in the height sensor within a time window. . . . . and assumes the valve is stuck !!

 

[cornishboat]

+1 on that pw, after 2 years of an intermittent fault (the same one described) (some of you may recall the issue) I dismantled the connectors one by one and found a partly corroded wire on the large connector beside the compressor. After cleaning, tightening and resoldering the car has been as sound as a pound now for many months.

Happy New Year Chaps

 

[Gordonjcp]

That's a bad driver pack, all day long.  You can try unplugging and cleaning the connectors with some proper contact cleaner and that might help a bit, but generally because you've disturbed the wiring and moved whatever dry joint under the silicone potting in the driver pack.<br><br>The good news is, the worst that'll happen is it'll occasionally try to pop itself up to full height (because it can't lower so it thinks it's bottomed out) and freak out because it can't work out what's happening.  If you happen to catch the big yellow "Extended Height" lamp coming on and poke the height switch to drop it back down, quite often it'll be okay.  Maybe occasionally you'll need to wave the diags cable at it to reset it.<br><br>The cure is a new driver pack, or if you're brave you can try de-potting the old one to try and resolder it.  Every single driver pack I have pulled from a scrapped vehicle has had at least one intermittent channel, even if the vehicle didn't have any apparent suspension problems.

 

[Lause]

just reading up on my own EAS problems - what do you mean with "driver pack"? The big multiplug in the front right corner of the EAS-box? Or the compressor assembly? Or the block, the valves are mounted to?

 

[RRToadHall]

None of the above. The driver pack is the black box that looks like a big deck of cards. Basically it's the logic unit that controls the valves based on what the EAS ECU tells it to do.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/P38-RANGE-...ash=item3f7fc38aa8:g:18oAAOSwv0tVJThd&vxp=mtr