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2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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Discussion Starter #1
I've been on a sublime 4x4 trip in Colorado this week and tackling some awesome trails with tons of rocks and plenty of mud puddles. I guess some mud got into my Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) and the next time I used it, it didn't release all the way. I could smell the cooking brake after I parked and the next day it was squeaking badly. I figured it was the EPB and went to the hardware store in Vail to get a Torx bit so I could remove the rotor to inspect it and see if I could manually back off the EPB so I could worry about it when I got back to KS. The EPB shoes were completely gone and worse yet, when I looked at the rotor this is what I saw:
rotor.jpg




That's just one of the cracks. There was another exactly the same size 180 degrees from that one. You can even see how the rotor was deforming from the crack. (weirdness on the shiny part above the circled crack) The cracks were so bad they could be seen from the outside of the rotor once I knocked off the mud.

I took the truck to the folks at the Glenwood Springs dealership and they got everything fixed in a day and even loaned me a brand new RR Evoque while the worked on my truck. The repair with a brake fluid flush was $1,300. I recommend the dealership - but not the Evoque. (the evoque had a ton of road noise and positively disgusting turbo-lag. The engine seemed dead until the boost kicked in. Priuses were beating off the lights. Unacceptable.)

I'm posting this to encourage you inspect your rotors closely if you ever have a sticky EPB. If the rotor's cracked, it's probably not too far from shattering.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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818 Posts
Yikes. I think this just happened to me - one wheel at a time. I just replaced my pads and rotors all around, and got the vibration/smoking/nasty from my rear right - and coincidentally I was on my way to O'Reilly Motors (my local LR Indy shop) to fine tune an alignment they did (which corrected a HORRENDOUS alignment from my 'beloved' :rolleyes: local LR dealer - more on that in another thread at another time).

The indy shop was convinced that my right rear CALIPER had locked up, so I ordered another one from Rock Auto - only to have the EXACT SAME THING happen to my LEFT rear two days later.

Odd coincidence, two calipers locking up within days of one another, no? So...I ordered the other one. Now I think I don't need either one.

I'm about to dismount the rear wheels to have a look and see what is going on. I did the brake job myself, and cannot imagine that I screwed something up with the parking brake assembly: I didn't even have to touch it , in fact: the rotors dismounted without requiring any parking brake pad retraction, and the new rotors mounted without any adjustment needed either.

Turns out that I may have needed to 'dial back' the pads a scoche to give them more clearance - I won't know until I look. I'm not looking forward to it.

I've been on a sublime 4x4 trip in Colorado this week and tackling some awesome trails with tons of rocks and plenty of mud puddles. I guess some mud got into my Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) and the next time I used it, it didn't release all the way. I could smell the cooking brake after I parked and the next day it was squeaking badly. I figured it was the EPB and went to the hardware store in Vail to get a Torx bit so I could remove the rotor to inspect it and see if I could manually back off the EPB so I could worry about it when I got back to KS. The EPB shoes were completely gone and worse yet, when I looked at the rotor this is what I saw:





That's just one of the cracks. There was another exactly the same size 180 degrees from that one. You can even see how the rotor was deforming from the crack. (weirdness on the shiny part above the circled crack) The cracks were so bad they could be seen from the outside of the rotor once I knocked off the mud.

I took the truck to the folks at the Glenwood Springs dealership and they got everything fixed in a day and even loaned me a brand new RR Evoque while the worked on my truck. The repair with a brake fluid flush was $1,300. I recommend the dealership - but not the Evoque. (the evoque had a ton of road noise and positively disgusting turbo-lag. The engine seemed dead until the boost kicked in. Priuses were beating off the lights. Unacceptable.)

I'm posting this to encourage you inspect your rotors closely if you ever have a sticky EPB. If the rotor's cracked, it's probably not too far from shattering.
 

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Premium Member
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5,175 Posts
Yikes! Thanks for posting these experiences guys. Sorry your trip got buggered up by this SEOMike.

I've had problems with the EPB dragging as well on both sides--no cracks, but it heated the rotor's to the point where the grey anti-rust coating turns black and is accompanied by the smell of burning shoes.

I've deconstructed what I think is the issue for me. I hardly ever used the EPB and with a lack of use the EPB can drift into contact with the rotor over time (btw my mechanic said he has seen this happen on EPB equipped MB's as well). Once this starts, a lot of dust builds up inside, add a bit of moisture and you get a clay-like substance that continues to bind things up in there. The inside of my rotor was a real mess last time this happened. Fortunately the added heat did not fry my wheel bearing as well.

As a prevention, I've started cycling the EPB quite frequently now and have not had any issues since. Hopefully this is the solution.

IMO the EPB is yet another complication introduced by LR (and others) to replace a manual cable and adjuster nut that used to work just fine for the last 50 yrs. I'd rather the PB just not work than leave me stranded.
 

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Premium Member
2006-2009 Range Rover Sport
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5,175 Posts
Turns out that I may have needed to 'dial back' the pads a scoche to give them more clearance - I won't know until I look. I'm not looking forward to it.
I guess it depends on how worn the EPB shoes are vs the decreased dia of the new rotor, but I dialed my adjuster back about 3-4 clicks, then let the self adjusting (aka the self drifting feature :)) reset the EPB. The EPB worked ok after that.

Fyi. The official LR procedure is (again) complicated and involves some dismounting/remounting procedure done electronically. It never worked for me the one time I tried it. I'm not even sure the dealer follows this.
 

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Premium Member
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I guess it depends on how worn the EPB shoes are vs the decreased dia of the new rotor, but I dialed my adjuster back about 3-4 clicks, then let the self adjusting (aka the self drifting feature :)) reset the EPB. The EPB worked ok after that.

Fyi. The official LR procedure is (again) complicated and involves some dismounting/remounting procedure done electronically. It never worked for me the one time I tried it. I'm not even sure the dealer follows this.
I don't think you have to dial it back any unless the rotor being replaced is not OEM and as you mentioned the thickness will not let it fit.

When I had the tech help me as I could get 1 rotor off (the one with the EPB), he said they don't even dial it back, they just remove the rotor, and once installed, they engage the EPB and it tighten's up against the rotor and "it" knows when to stop by the amount of force it presses up against the new rotor.

I use my EPB extensively when parked on an slight incline to avoid the "thud" from going from Park.
 
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