RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Folks HAppy new year to u all.

Can some one please tell me what makes my 1996 Rangi to give a tapping noise when the engine is on.
I have got various suggestions One being that the Engine Valves need to be reset.
If this is true how does one go about it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,855 Posts
What colour is the oil? How many times has the oil been changed in the last 50,000 miles?
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
The oil was changed just two weeks ago and its still giving the tapping noise
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Mag,

What are lifters?

q-rover,

I use one from Mobil.Cant remenber its exact name for now. Which will u recommend.

Paul,

Am in Nigeria.

Folks am being pushed to get rid of the rover, I dont want to so ur help is really needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,052 Posts
I use 5W- 50 fully synthetic(not the most expensive, about $110/ 10L)
and change it around every 5000Km.
Can't say whether it is good or not, but I have no strange engine sounds
in the 3 years/ 30.000Km I have had the car.

I would go for xxW-50 for yor oil. The reason I have 5W is winter, it's been
-17°C here recently.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
q-rover Thks, I guess I will do an oil change once more.Though this tapping was on before i did the oil change about two weeks back, and after the oil change the tapping was still there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
It might be worth giving the engine a good flush before next oil change to make sure there is no crud in there blocking any oil ways. Either use a good propriety engine flush or I have used the technique of adding a pint of diesel to the oil and then drive for about 50 miles before draining. I believe others have used a diesel engine oil (which have higher detergent effect) for about 1000 miles and then change back to normal oil. When choosing your oil a super expensive synthetic probably isn't worth it. A good dino oil changed every 6k is what I use. Finally choose a grade that matches temps where you are - I'm using a 10w40 at present for temps of -8 I would guess for you a 10w50/60 would be the one.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
AMck, Thanks for ur feedback. But I still have a couple of questions. Can you advice on some good propriety engine flush that will be good for the 4.0 P38 V-8 engine.
 

·
FOUNDING MEMBER
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
I actually used a quart of the slick50 stuff a couple years ago and never had the noise since. Some say do not use, but seems to have been good for mine, which is up to 210,000miles.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Thanks Iceberg,

I live in Nigeria and will have to use something i can easily get my hands on.Or i might end up importing the slick50 if you can give me more details about it.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Iceberg,

Just googled slick50 and they have for the fuel, Engine, and ATF, which should I use. Should I use all three if i can lay my hands on it.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
27,818 Posts
Slick 50 is an additive not a flush. With limited availability i your area I would just go for off the shelf engine flush. They go by many names like 5 minute flush and are made by almost every oil company. Gunk, Wurth, Redex, STP and valvoline all have them. IF these are not available just use the diesel in the engine trick before your next change. Kerosene is another long used flushing agent. When you change your oil add a quart of tranny fluid. The tranny fluid will provide the added detergent properties without breaking down your lubricating properties.

After you get things cleaned out you can certainly add a slick 50 product to quiet the lifters. Lucas makes a version as well. Given your location it might be a good idea to do a spot of research on the ingrediants of what is available as most of these products all have the same main ingrediant.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
40 Posts
Hi

I had a metallic ticking noise which turned out to be a cracked Bank B exhaust manifold - the drivers side in the UK. I saw an article on another knowledge, made a simple listening device - a fire proof probe, plastic tube and a funnel - then checked out the engine. It appears that the Bank B exhaust manifolds have a habit of going - mine was cracked in two places. This is why you see so few on the auction sites. I got it TIGed up - cost £10 and new gaskets. The whole fix cost under £20. I was amazed by the difference.

The History Man

RR 4.0SE GEMS with Mark Adams chip set
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,758 Posts
Could be many things. First, I would be reluctant to use an engine flush since you could cause damage to engine bearings if the flush thins the oil to much. I started using diesel motor oil and now use some atf as per rrtoadhall to assist in cleaning the engine. None of this has reduced our engine clicking but it has not gotten worse, either. Our problem, I believe is that the steel inserts in the rockers work loose and this creates the clicking noise we hear. Our rangie falls within the vin series where this can happen, so search for that and see if you are close to ours which is near the end of the series. Another possibility unfortunately is a bad cam lobe or 2 [or hydraulic lifter]which would create the excess clearance. Low oil pressure due to plugged screen, poor pump or worn bearings is also possible. Do you have any history on the vehicle which would tell you what someone else may have done [ie something wrong] Slick 50, Lucas oil stabilizer [which we use] helps to thicken oil and may just solve your issue or a higher viscosity oil may do it. The lifters are designed to take up about 20-30 thousands clearance away ]to reduce noise]yet still provide adequate valve seat pressure for heat transfer so the valve won't burn. This clearance is set on assembly of the valve train system. good luck and let us know if you find your solution.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
258 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Hey Folks,

My mechanic says its the tappers that they are worn out and they need to be changed.Am yet to flush the engine as suggested in previous comments,so i need to know the best option.Do I let him go in there and change the tappers or do I just do the flushing only
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,365 Posts
OK, now if you do a search you will find several threads which tend to advise changing the cam, lifters, push rods and rockers/shafts as a kit.

Have a good read before you rush into just changing something which will wear out in a short time.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top