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Discussion Starter #1
So I started another post about my car not starting but I got it started and now this is happening. The truck starts fine, then idles rough, and stalls when I put it in gear.

About a week ago, I started my car that was sitting for about a week because I was slowly fixing a tie rod. The car started and then went into a really rough idle that seemed to get worse as the car ran and warmed up.

When I got my tie rod fixed 2 days later, tried to fire it up and it wouldnt start. Replaced all my spark plugs, and it fired right up, but still had the rough idle.

Black sut came out the back, and the exhaust was really black for about 10 mins. Then it became white, but the engine was idling really rough. I drove it around my parking lot for about 5 mins, parked it and then had to go to class.

When I got back from class I started it up, and again, it was rough. This time when I started to put it into gear, it just stalled.

It seems to get worse the longer I let it warm up. My cabin had been smelling like exhaust, so maybe its the converter? but then I dont know why it wouldnt stall in park (even when I reved up the engine), and only when I put it in gear?


FYI: I know my Oxygen sensors are bad and I need to replace them, so keep that in mind.
 

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Premium Member
2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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3,622 Posts
White exhaust = burning coolant. Not good news my friend.

If it weren't for that, I'd suspect your IAC (Idle air control valve) or possibly the maf meter.

How is your oil? Milky? Condensation under the cap? Smell a little sweet?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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865 Posts
Black smoke = overfueling..

White = oil or Anti freeze, is it using coolant

Electrical connections under fuse box if a old model do build up a sort of corrosion, use switch cleaner and plug in out a few times, works well.

Same goes for fuses in engine bay and in cabin.

HT leads, hope you dont have junk aftermarket on there, I mention this last as you say its getting worse and worse but slightly improves with cleaning plugs, typical ht lead failure sign

Coils.....
Crank shaft sensor..

Flex plate, can cause this to as excitor moves awy from crank shaft sensor
Another grey unchartered area is when wiring gets tampered with by people doing things that shouldnt be done
I know I bought a lemon and now have a 2.4 ton missile, I let my customers drive it (depending) for comparision to theirs.
Best tip I can give you is dont give up and to have a understanding of electrical and mechanicals, from injectors to sensors
Hope you got a good battery in the rangie
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The smoke is coming out of the centre muffler now, and really bad - black smoke with little fiber-like material floating around in the air.

I hope that doesn't mean cat converters are done!!!!!

The white smoke I was referring to was just the normal color of exhaust when its cold out, not an actual white color. And the oil seems to smell and look fine. Changed it probably 2000 miles ago.

The electrical system is just wack in my RR. I have a brand new batery/terminals and it still drains if I dont drive it everyday for an hour or so.

Its hard for me to get around to the local auto stores, but I will see if I can pick up some new spark plug wires.

Thanks for the help and ill be back with updates!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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865 Posts
Bummer I forget you guys have cats unlike our Lions here...........mmm anyway
O2 sensors....

Test HT leads firts, place a digital multimeter on the 20k mark, readings should ideally be 8k and lower
 
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