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Discussion Starter #1
Vehicle: 2005 (US market, BMW engine)

Problem: high pitched squeal or whine from the engine, keeps pace with engine speed, starts when the engine does, constant but may vary in volume, stops only when the engine stops. Progressively louder/worse over time.

Fix: Indy shop [Motorcars LTD, Carrollton (Dallas), Texas] replaced idler pulley on alternator belt - old one was plastic and showed irregular wear with bearing that wasn't freely turning. $188 Seems to be fixed.

Shop also mentioned that there is a TSB recommending 20W-50 oil if lifter tick/knock is noticed in this engine. I'll be changing to Castrol Syntec 20W-50 next change, from the 5W-whatever I have in it now. (In my climate, cold weather isn't much of an issue, since we seldom if ever get to 20F)
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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noname said:
Shop also mentioned that there is a TSB recommending 20W-50 oil if lifter tick/knock is noticed in this engine. I'll be changing to Castrol Syntec 20W-50 next change, from the 5W-whatever I have in it now. (In my climate, cold weather isn't much of an issue, since we seldom if ever get to 20F)
20w-50 is a bit thick isn't it? the 5 or 20 is its viscosity when cold, so going to 4 times the start up viscosity is going to starve your valves of oil flow on start up especially in cold climate. I would go for something like Castrol GTX High Mileage which is a 15/40 but ideally would go for a 10/50.

Just my 2 penneth.

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was just passing along the info from the TSB (which I haven't seen, but this service manager has always been straight with me.)

In cooler climates, 20w-50 would be bad, and I usually run the lowest viscosity, full synthetic I can get. It seems like the heavy oil will just damp the sound, but sound indicates vibration, and vibration in the engine leads to wear.
 

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Great info for the engine sqeal, that should always be one of the first things to check for that.
20w50 would be fine for Texas, Of course with a Range Rover (and anything else, really) I'd never consider using anything other than synthetic. My preference is Mobil 1, but I digress...

I actually use 0w30 Mobil 1 sometimes. I know some would gasp & consider it like using water, but I've had no problem, & if I get another 1 or 2 MPGs from it, it works for me! To each, their own...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, forgot to mention that my economy (per the on-board info & measured) had decreased by about 2-4 mpg since the noise started. I have a 1000 mile highway trip next week, so I'll check it.

My usual oil is Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntec 5W-30 or 5W-40. I tried Castrol Edge once: there seemed to be more noise under the hood and it felt sloppy on acceleration. I actually had it changed again after about 2000 miles because it concerned me.

With what passes for winter down here starting, I think I may go to 10W-40 Syntec or M1 or Amsoil on the change this week. The Amsoil is not easy to get in a hurry, but worked very well in my Dodge diesel. It made the P38 and Disco leak like a British engine; it always finds the leaky seals and small passages, which is why it one reason it is such a great motor oil.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Noticed a wine that goes up and down with the engine revs and seems louder with more electrical load. I'm hoping it's just the idler pulley as described here, fingers crossed it wont be too much of a pain to replace....

Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good luck. I have just started noticing an intermittent, slight, new whine. It is less of a problem than the renewal of the "air suspension inactive", again.
And then there is the tire weight that keeps getting thrown (sticky weights on the powder coated wheels), or the new, strong vibration of the steering wheel on braking, or the Vanos knock, and the license plate light warning that started yesterday.

I guess I've figured out how to spend that tax refund.
 

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2002-2005 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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noname said:
Good luck. I have just started noticing an intermittent, slight, new whine. It is less of a problem than the renewal of the "air suspension inactive", again.
And then there is the tire weight that keeps getting thrown (sticky weights on the powder coated wheels), or the new, strong vibration of the steering wheel on braking, or the Vanos knock, and the license plate light warning that started yesterday.

I guess I've figured out how to spend that tax refund.
Vibration of the steering wheel - check the lower ball joints, that was it for me.
Vanos knock - change to a slightly thinner oil that can get round the system better on cold starts, also keep the level right at max or 1 or 2mm higher, again, works for me.
Licence plate warning light - you may be getting moisture behind the lens which is messing with the contacts, have you taken the bulb out and cleaned them up with some fine emmery paper? Even if they look ok they can have a thin film on them, it only needs to flicker once and it will throw a bong.

Next?

I'm going to try your info first on the whine before I let the thought of failing alternators, PS pumps and compressors even enter my mind!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I had been running 5W-30 Mobil 1, and the local rover shop said "20W-50", which doesn't seem to be helping. I going back to thin oil just to reduce fuel consumption (1-3 mpg difference)

My alternator is water-cooled, so I didn't want to mess with that, either.

And one license plate bulb is burned out.I think I'll handle that.
 
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