Range Rovers Forum banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to you all, I'm in a middle of a Bussines road trip so I than in Advance for your quick response if possible.

P38 1999 4.0 SE BOSCH / Last night 1:30 am after driving 250 miles no problems I did a low beam to high beam light change and the truck went pitch black ( engine shut off, all lights off inside and out ) for 3 or 4 seconds and then it came on again like nothing... that truly woke me up... after 15 or 20 seconds I did the lights change to confirm what happened and it did it again exactly the same... still driving I decided I was going to follow without light changes... I clicked the button so I can see me Fuel - Driving range and It did it again but this time with no come back.... Ended up on the side of the road... I disconnected the battery and reconnected and nothing, did it again and nothing and while I was cursing about it I saw interior light came on I turned the truck on and everything was ok BUT THE SPEEDOMETER, it does not work at all.

I arrived to a well lit rest area turned off the truck, disconnected battery again for 5 min, connected and turned on, everything "fine" headlights go from low to high and back, info buttin make it's changes... speedometer still off.

Any of you has experiencs something like it??? Any Ideas... Still have 1200 miles to go and I don't want to end up stranded in the middle of nowhere!!!!

Thanks in Advance

Raul
 

· Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
807 Posts
A bad battery or alternator can cause all types of gremlins (mine did) but never had symptoms like yours.

You can have them checked out for dirt cheap.

Not to scare you but it could also be BeCM related. Maybe message Scotty to see if he's heard of this
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks a lot Nico, a little update... I arrived Houston without playing with any buttons ( not even stereo ) just as a precaution. Next morning almost 80 miles city driving no problems at all... I arrived to my hotel to load my stuff and left engine running for let's say 10 min and when I jumped in exactly when I pressed the break pedal to put it in gear it went off again... 100% dead... Disconnected battery and nothing... I took off every fuse and relay back from the battery and it came back.... after that went to Pasadena TX ( 40 miles ) hook up a trailer with a car on top ( 5600 lb s total ) and drove for an hour, rested and yesterday I came back to Brownsville 360 miles almost free of issues... only I felt like I was not running at 100% of power... and Service Engone light came on... anyway I kept going and arrived home.I just returned the trailer and now that I can feel the Range again by itself... I feel like COIL/WIRE/SPARK PLUG or something not working fine... unstable on idle with break at red lights. Once you press the gas and go feels better.Thanks again
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Nico an Update... I'll take the truck today to Scan the service engine soon light to see what it comes out.... and go from there. Also you may be right on the Alternator I just remember that last year in August I have a "similar" issue on a road trip and the shop replaced the "brushes" or "carbons" of the alternator for some used ones cause new ones were not on hand.... Just a guess. On December I got new coils, spark plugs and wires ( but you never know ) so I don't think it can be one of those.

Thanks again

Pato
 

· Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
807 Posts
It sounds electrical (not coils, plugs, etc) since the engine shutting off is triggered by your use of electrical components (highbeams, trip display, etc).

The alternator, battery, and BeCM are involved in processing all of those signals, which is why I volunteered that guess.

The BeCM processes EVERYTHING electrical and can be responsible for the vehicle cutting out. For example when you turn on the headlights w the switch, the switch merely sends a signal to the BeCM and then the BeCM turns on the lights.

It really wouldnt surprise me if the BeCM is your culprit.

When it comes to BeCM stuff, talk to Scotty - NOT to a mechanic.

Sounds like a nightmare I really hope it gets sorted for you. Keep us posted with the solution.

I've also heard of fuse boxes needing to be replaced....
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Nico thanks again for you guidance, sure if it comes down to BeCM I'll check with Scotty, we already crossed PM's I appreciate that you guided me to him.

Now the update... I took it to scan ( O'Reilly's ) and it came out with misfire on 1 and 8... It was not doing that before the "episode" on the road last weekend... any ideas.. are we still on the Battery / Alternator field or ????

Regarding the Fuse Box inside the hood here are some pictures... I've had this problem ( for what I have read here is very common ) with the driver side ( LH of course jajaja ) blower motor since I got the truck, I was going crazy cause sometimes it started sometimes it didn't and as you may know when it doesn't the flow of air on the dash vents is minimal... well after it finally did not came on at all and a lot of reading here I checked the Relays and suprise... Yellow Relay burned and Fuse box... see the picture... I got some replacement and it started working but after a month is giving trouble again... somebody told me that thye problem may be the old Blower Motor that is making the electric line to over heat??? Sorry not that good of a mechanic/electric but a hand on person when I have the right guidance

Again Thanks in advance.

Technology Electronic device
Technology Electronic device

 

· Registered
Joined
·
900 Posts
A bad fuse box will cause all those symptoms. Don't do anything until that gets changed. Best sure you order the correct one as they made 3 for p38s. Only buy new as all old ones have problems.

The previous owner if the p38 we just bought turned off the truck, removed the key and came back outside to a running truck. Fuse box problems will do weird things.
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Spike... I wrongfully taught that if the RL7 relay or section of the fuse box was the only one "damaged" the function that relay controls had to be the only one failing but a lot to learn with RR's ahead. So bottom line before replacing coils again or going any further on diagnostics do you recommend to replace the fuse box... Mami British a good option to get it? Bought some stuff from them before and everything ok.

How will I know wich one to order .... just for the placing of fuses and relays or by VIN # ??? Please advice on this.

If anyone has a comment on this feel free as more info help me understand better and develop some knowledge.

Regards and Thanks to you all again

Pato
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
1,369 Posts
OK you did ask!

I think that a good general rule is NEVER ignore ANY warning signs, be it blower motor, misfiring, door locks malfunctioning, the SLIGHTEST sign of overheating, EAS leaks.

I'm on my fourth P38 and have learned this the hard way.

If you can catch these types of faults the fix can be surprisingly cheap, eg blower motor carbon brushes 10 dollars.
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Spiggy Thanks... I'll adopt that rule as of right now... swinging a little of the main issue here... regarding the blower motor... is it true that the fuebox issue on RL7 is because electrical motors ( blower ) return a small amount of electricity back to source so RL7 position on the Fuse Box get overheated??? Sounds weird but may be true....
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
After reading what you all have been kind enough to answer and reading and so more reading I come to the clear conclusion that I need to replace ENGINE FUSE BOX first of all... and go from there... I'm a little confuse of the correct Fuse Box like I have read here and in other posts that there are 3 models... can someone smarter than me help me figure out which one is the right one to order?
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks all for your help I'll start with the fusebox and go from there.... I've had no problems with the fuses but Relays you know the story... any replacement or equivalents work fine or I need to look for original LR / Siemmens ones ???
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok by VIN I already figure out that the correct one is the 99-02... does this Fuse Box was used in another LR models like other parts? Or only in RR.

Thanks
 

· Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
134 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok here I go again... I did some research and the new Fuse Box goes from $250 to $360 usd... then I called to the U pull it and another place arround here and found a used one from a 2002... Went to the place they took it out and brought it to the counter... took all fuses and relays out and no signs og melting or cracking anywhere and of course proces is $100 dlls... Don't know if take the risk $150 does make a difference...what do you think??


Also if you remember ( or read ) my original post you may see there the issue that after the "black out" the speedometer didn't work... I just figured out that the needle does move but is stuck under the rest rod just at the 10 mph mark.. some how during the episode the needle got down there... see picture... any ideas how to fix this???


Thanks again


Pato
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top