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2014 Range Rover Sport Autobiography
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So... driving back from work the other day and I rev up to get on the highway. Car feels weird all of a sudden, and I notice blue/white smoke coming from the rear. Shuddering, power isn't there. No errors on the dash, but I'm spewing tons of smoke. I chug on and make it home about 20 miles. Still runs and drives, but only on 4 cylinders. From what I can tell, it doesn't seem as bad, no metal or antifreeze in the oil. I have a lot of oil in the exhaust though. Engine has 99k miles. Codes read include misfires on cylinders 5-8.

Call my warranty company... no dice, seems like they went out of business and I can't get a hold of them... so essentially I'm out of warranty. Filed an FTC complaint. It's funny because I had one claim with them in the past and they paid it.

Got a local quote for a rebuild. 12k... not as bad as I thought it would be, but I'm still shopping. Can anyone recommend a local shop (NJ) or engine rebuilder they've dealt with before? Perfect scenario would be to get it rebuilt or buy an already rebuilt motor and drop it in. I don't want to part it out or sell it, the rest of the rover is in such great shape it would be a shame to take it off the road. TIA

Wheel Car Vehicle Tire Plant
 

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2014 Range Rover Sport Autobiography
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Might want to check for a lower mileage wrecking yard motor.
Everything I've found at wrecking yards has been priced at 12-13k so not really worth it. For that cost I would just rebuild.
 

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Is the rebuild a total rebuild including boring and honing of all cylinders and new pistons, turned crank and complete valve job or is it a repair of whatever ails the motor? What if the crank is broken or cylinder scored and the motor not repairable/rebuildable. Make sure those scenarios are addressed before signing on. I've heard of instances where a rebuilder promises to rebuild a motor only to find the block cracked or whatever. The 12k becomes a lot larger. Good luck.
 

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Is the rebuild a total rebuild including boring and honing of all cylinders and new pistons, turned crank and complete valve job or is it a repair of whatever ails the motor? What if the crank is broken or cylinder scored and the motor not repairable/rebuildable. Make sure those scenarios are addressed before signing on. I've heard of instances where a rebuilder promises to rebuild a motor only to find the block cracked or whatever. The 12k becomes a lot larger. Good luck.
I was thinking it was going to need at least all that is emboldened... Engine Oil in the exhaust would suggest to me oil blow by on the exhaust valves and also the cylinders, cylinder rings, and/or the cylinder walls worst case... or Best case a bad or warped head I would surmise...

Has the engine ever overheated? (you cannot count on the dash temp gauge it's near worthless). Have you ever had to pull over for a bad/clogged radiator, low coolant, stuck thermostat, low oil level in the sump or anything of the sorts?

Our last vehicle constantly ran hotter than the design of the aluminum block and heads could take. At 55,000 miles the engine went tits up, loss of a lot of power on the highway with 4 family members with me... Dealer said it was due to a stretched timing chain and water pump failure... Had those items replaced fully at Ford Dealership.

Same problems came back withing a week because the engine cylinder walls became warped over daily driving and heat soak. Allowing the cylinder rings to get out of round, lose compression, and cause oil blow-by into the air-intake system. The new air filter went from white to yellow and the air-hose/intake system itself was coated with engine oil I discovered when performing a full Tune-Up and Oil/Filter change. There was so much oil blow by that the oil-sump had went from 6.5quarts (changed the oil 6 weeks prior) down to 2.5quarts with zero oil lamp/warning indication beforehand, no signs of overheating, and zero performance loss until it was too late. That engine was toast and no amount of rebuilding on that same block was going to be worth any effort.

I hope your situation is different and good luck!

-Ham
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was thinking it was going to need at least all that is emboldened... Engine Oil in the exhaust would suggest to me oil blow by on the exhaust valves and also the cylinders, cylinder rings, and/or the cylinder walls worst case... or Best case a bad or warped head I would surmise...

Has the engine ever overheated? (you cannot count on the dash temp gauge it's near worthless). Have you ever had to pull over for a bad/clogged radiator, low coolant, stuck thermostat, low oil level in the sump or anything of the sorts?

Our last vehicle constantly ran hotter than the design of the aluminum block and heads could take. At 55,000 miles the engine went tits up, loss of a lot of power on the highway with 4 family members with me... Dealer said it was due to a stretched timing chain and water pump failure... Had those items replaced fully at Ford Dealership.

Same problems came back withing a week because the engine cylinder walls became warped over daily driving and heat soak. Allowing the cylinder rings to get out of round, lose compression, and cause oil blow-by into the air-intake system. The new air filter went from white to yellow and the air-hose/intake system itself was coated with engine oil I discovered when performing a full Tune-Up and Oil/Filter change. There was so much oil blow by that the oil-sump had went from 6.5quarts (changed the oil 6 weeks prior) down to 2.5quarts with zero oil lamp/warning indication beforehand, no signs of overheating, and zero performance loss until it was too late. That engine was toast and no amount of rebuilding on that same block was going to be worth any effort.

I hope your situation is different and good luck!

-Ham
It's never overheated. I had recently replaced the water pump for a small leak but that was it as far as cooling. I dumped the oil just to check and 9 quarts came out even after burning oil out through the exhaust. I think I may just order this: 2014-2020 RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 5.0L V8 GAS SUPERCHARGED ENGINE MOTOR ASSEMBLY | eBay and just do a swap. A stage 2 build sounds enticing and if I'm dropping the coin, a few k more for a better built engine would be a better choice I think.

I'm waiting on the mechanic's reply as to how he will overhaul the engine before I decide.
 

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It's never overheated. I had recently replaced the water pump for a small leak but that was it as far as cooling. I dumped the oil just to check and 9 quarts came out even after burning oil out through the exhaust. I think I may just order this: 2014-2020 RANGE ROVER SPORT L494 5.0L V8 GAS SUPERCHARGED ENGINE MOTOR ASSEMBLY | eBay and just do a swap. A stage 2 build sounds enticing and if I'm dropping the coin, a few k more for a better built engine would be a better choice I think.

I'm waiting on the mechanic's reply as to how he will overhaul the engine before I decide.
Then you should be still be alright if engine block, and cylinder wall wise thankfully...

However, if you pumped out 9 quarts of oil you were probably over a quart overfilled. I'm never able to put in more than 7.5 quarts of the Castrol 0w-20 Professional without getting an overfill message once... So I extracted a half a quart and all was well then. Subsequent oil changes have been only 7.5quarts and makes the oil level say Max Level.I use the Extraction Method Exclusively on the Rover and have since my first oil change.

Too much oil in a high compression engine like the AJ-V8Supercharged will make the engine blow a seal(s)... Most likely a head gasket which would give you no compression in the 5-8# Cylinder Bank resulting in major loss of power and put white smoke out the tailpipes!

Another cause of Head Gasket failure is overheating so if you did your own water-pump you should know how much fluid was actually missing... Or the shop that performed the water pump swap should have known how much was used up with the bad pump when they refilled the system. Not having enough fluid is detrimental even once...

Your current engine probably just needs a new head gasket and not a total rebuild which will be much, much cheaper and hopefully never overheated even once so all the lower parts are still good-to-go!

I like your idea of a Stage II Engine but... I'm the kinda guy that figures if something isn't broke, then leave it the heck alone (except for routine maintenance of course) because upgrading and fixing things that didn't need it has caused me some considerable heart-burn and even a stomach ulcer the last several years of my life! You'll want to go the most painless and cost effective way for sure. Just this man's advice so as always... YMMV.

ETA: I love the color of your Rover. I wanted that color but I think it's the rarest color of them all... as I've only see 2-3 in person, ever...
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
It's strange, because I checked the oil religiously and it never read overfilled. After this happened I checked and it read as overfilled. Then I got 9 quarts out of it. As for the water pump, the dealer did it less than 2k miles before. I'll ask the mechanic if it could be the head gasket and if it I dodged a bullet. You're giving me some hope 🤞

The rover is chili red which I think was a one year color. It was the only color I was looking for when shopping and i was able to snag it, it's fully loaded and like I said would be a shame to part out.

I mean look at the options list:

Handwriting Font Material property Paper Parallel


No matter what it's getting fixed, but if it's just a head gasket I'll be over the moon.
 

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Oh that is a "Loaded-Baby" for sure... I don't have the Meridian (standard system sounds really good when playing my I-phone stored music or YouTube so I'm ok with that) "but wish I did have the Meridian Sound because as is the standard sound system is really stupid hard to upgrade..."

I don't have the Adaptive Cruise either but I'm a control freak (hate flying anywhere) and wouldn't trust it to begin with. However still a nice piece of kit to have if you trust it and drive long road trips a lot and for resale value option...

But I have everything else. The original owner put the Window Sticker Invoice inside the manual so that was nice of them to keep it for me. My baby is Fuji White with black 22" Stormer 9 spoke wheels, all black trim, and 20% window tinted windows... so she's a sexy beast like yours is. I get more attention in this vehicle than with anything else I've drive and really don't know how to feel about that except this... Cops, in general... are a heck of a lot nicer to me and give me the benefit of the doubt unlike before...

And a BIG HECK-NO, don't part-out that beautiful Rover! Take her to a well respected Independent shop... We just found one near us that only works on Land Rover/Range Rover Vehicles and that 80% of their employees came from North Atlanta Land Rover Dealership where I was going that is 2 miles further away even... Bear Valley Land Rover is the name and the owners are Christians...

1). So, honesty about getting to what is wrong with the Rover is number one...
2). Final/Absolute Parts and Labor costs are number 2 [and about (60%) of what the Dealer charges for Labor...]
Pluss They pass on to you their 20% discount on parts that repair shops/Dealer's get down to the customer (which is really cool and unexpected)... Try that on at the dealer and you'll get laughed or cussed out.
3). And lastly they don't take 10 Days to 2 Weeks to get you on the Books for an appointment. The day I called was the day they said we'll start on her in the morning if you get it here today before 5pm so we can lock it inside the gate securely.

My last visit to Bear Valley and we had our Rover back in 2 days... and that was only because we had to wait on an overnighted CV axle from an OEM Dealer in New Jersey I think it was to get to Roswell, GA. I do a LOT of the maintenance on our vehicles but sometimes you get over your head and/or don't have the time and it's sure nice to have a Good, Honest, Indi-Shop you can trust that will warranty both parts and labor! Screw The Dealer from now on... And I still have over a year of warranty with them!

Best regards,
Ham
 
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That Tapa reman looks sweet. If you read the description they do say the stock cylinder walls are not tolerant to being run hot due to cooling or lubrication problems. Plus they upgrade several other items as well. .
 

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So... driving back from work the other day and I rev up to get on the highway. Car feels weird all of a sudden, and I notice blue/white smoke coming from the rear. Shuddering, power isn't there. No errors on the dash, but I'm spewing tons of smoke. I chug on and make it home about 20 miles. Still runs and drives, but only on 4 cylinders. From what I can tell, it doesn't seem as bad, no metal or antifreeze in the oil. I have a lot of oil in the exhaust though. Engine has 99k miles. Codes read include misfires on cylinders 5-8.

Call my warranty company... no dice, seems like they went out of business and I can't get a hold of them... so essentially I'm out of warranty. Filed an FTC complaint. It's funny because I had one claim with them in the past and they paid it.

Got a local quote for a rebuild. 12k... not as bad as I thought it would be, but I'm still shopping. Can anyone recommend a local shop (NJ) or engine rebuilder they've dealt with before? Perfect scenario would be to get it rebuilt or buy an already rebuilt motor and drop it in. I don't want to part it out or sell it, the rest of the rover is in such great shape it would be a shame to take it off the road. TIA
I recommend swengines.com I have a 2010HSE sport and needed an engine, I paid a lil over 8G's through swengines they shipped directly to the shop I chose . It comes with a 5 year parts and labor warranty and I had it installed in 2019 and have not had any problems what so ever . check them out www.swengines.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That Tapa only has one review on Ebay...not me.

Did you ever find a shop in NJ?
I have. They're pretty booked so I have to wait until the end of the month. Not a big deal as the Range isn't my daily driver.
 

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I would think that you can find a less costly engine than $12-13k. Nothing special about the Range Rover Engine. Its's a Ford AJ-V8 that's been in use for more than 20 years. One of Ford's best engines. IMHO, when you get a price quote like that ... the shop doesn't want to be bothered with doing the repair. It ties up a bay for several days, cumbersome repair, and they'll likely not get it right the first time. Do some research and fine it you can find a shop more willing.

If the rest of the RR is in good shape, I'd definitely rebuild or replace the engine. Though I live in Norther Virginia where we have to pay a personal property tax (5%+) on autos. So, if I were to buy a new RR (or relatively new), I might be paying $3000/year+ tax on it.
 

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Plenty of low mileage V8 SC's on Car-part.com in the $8-12K range with a warranty. I would go that route over a rebuild.
 

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I wonder what could of been the cause of this. 58k on my autobiography & already had to get my supercharger rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dropped her off yesterday, let's see what they say
 

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That Tapa reman looks sweet. If you read the description they do say the stock cylinder walls are not tolerant to being run hot due to cooling or lubrication problems. Plus they upgrade several other items as well. .
Aluminum engine blocks are great for weight savings... But they MUST BE ran cool and fully oiled-up with the clean and proper oil too.
 

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I recommend swengines.com I have a 2010HSE sport and needed an engine, I paid a lil over 8G's through swengines they shipped directly to the shop I chose . It comes with a 5 year parts and labor warranty and I had it installed in 2019 and have not had any problems what so ever . check them out www.swengines.com
5 year warranty on parts and labor... Heck that is better than JLR offered on my New Crate AJ-V8 that was replaced under warranty. JLR only warranties a new engine for 1 year from the date of install... They do give unlimited mileage for that year though at least.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Swengines.com gave me a quote of 13k for a used engine with 33k miles. For that price i'll buy the remanufactured tapa engine.
 
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