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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made a few random posts, but I figured I would make a thread regards my motor rebuild for others to reference to easier. I did a quick search for rebuild threads and found none :?:
Our rig currently has just over 203k miles on it, so a fresher motor will give it back more pep than when it was new.
I got a used (140k mile) motor from Ebay for $500 over a year ago. It sat on the motor stand until I got sick of looking at it and having to move it to get to other tools etc :lol:
Got the motor stripped down to a bare block on Wednesday and I thought all looked good :think:
Here is the block all cleaned up:
[attachment=0:a3zqw0qu]block-clean1.jpg[/attachment:a3zqw0qu]
Yesterday I got the heads, pistons/rods, front cover/oil pump and all other bits and pieces all cleaned up as good as the block. Then I ran down to my local expert machine shop (PMI in Jefferson City) for them to accurately measure everything and check for any run out in the bores etc. I measured the bores, pistons and bearings myself and all looked good to me.
PMI called today and gave me some not so good news...
The bores are 3.5 thousandths over stock size.
The pistons are 2 thousandths under stock size.
Main bearings on the crank and block are "just' within specs.
All this will result in a 10/10 grind for the crank and a 20 thousandths overbore.
The rocker shafts will also be new, along with the supports that D&D manufacture (seen on the lower part of this page http://www.aluminumv8.com/new/newstuff.htm)
I also plan on an oil pump rebuild, new freeze plugs, full gasket and seal set, Crowler cam, lifters and cam bearings, timing, timing chain set and ARP head studs.
I will also be balancing the rods/pistons and stripping the heads down to relap all the valves by hand and put new seal on them. Maybe clean up any casting marks on the ports and call it good.
Any other suggestions while its all apart?
Will post updates as and when they happen. Got to order some parts from D&D to allow the machine shop to do their thing, then start the reassembly when time/funds allow.

Martin
 

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You should detail the hell out of this motor Martin! Do you know how awesome it would be to pop your hood and have a polished and pristine motor under there? Maybe polish the valve covers and intake, maybe a little bore and a little stroke. I have considered it myself but never felt like doing it.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thought about it Jeremy, but it would be a nightmare trying to keep it clean! I guess the valve covers and plenum wouldn't be too bad, but the motor and heads? :think:
From having polished fuel tanks, wheels and toolboxes on my big rig, I know first hand what a pain polished aluminum can be.
Now if someone knows of a top coat I can put on the block and heads, that will stand up to the heat etc, I would be open to ideas :thumb:

Martin
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
NikeCheck246 said:
I am lost down that road...I just like shiny things
No Comment..... :lol: 8) :lol:
 

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RIP Our Friend
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OOOHHH :shock: `) SHINEY BITS! Yea my nice pristine perfectly spotless engine lasted to the first mud puddle in the neighbours drive. NOOO THANKS. Way too much work for something only I am goinna see when I check the oil.
 

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Black would be my vote. Fully blacked out engine would look really good in there. Only worry, it would be **** near impossible to find the oil leaks. Chrome tends to look tacky.
 

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Product called "Nicote". Used for stainless and aluminium finishes. We put it on the bare hull of ferries we built here in Oz. Basically, in the saltwater environment especially, apply paint to aluminium and it will just corrode away underneath, so we leave it bare, put a pattern in it with a scotchbrite pad machine, then nicote once a year.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmmm that blue is a little.....hmmmmm........bright for me?
I think I will just degrease and wash as needed. That's all I did to get the block looking like it does currently :thumb:
May polish the valve covers and plenum and that will be it I think.

Martin
 

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Sounds like you got everything covered.

Just a few tips/suggestions from personal experience; more related to removing/installing the engine than acutally building

-Clean/Tap all the bolt holes.
-Hit all the connections on the wiring harness with cleaner,
-Label all the connections well. Most are easy to go back in place.
-Be careful when removing the harness from the oil pressure switch, the end fell off mine. I just soldered an electircal connector and shrink wrapped it. I had to bend the connection point on the switch just a hair for it to clear. It works well
-Some years have different connectors/clips (on the harness), but this should work: After you pull the clip for the connectors, like the temp sensor or injectors, put the clip back on the connector (harness side). You can just push it on the injector/sensor without having to fumble with the clip (if that makes sense). I lost half my clips the first time I pulled the engine. Luckily they had all been swept up in some kitty litter. Not expensive, but a pain to find when its the only thing holding you back.

Im sure you know, but be sure to use some good assembly lube and hit all the spots that come in contact (rockers etc).
Before I turned the engine over the first time, I tried to "prime" it or get the oil flowing by removing the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine over a couple times, in short bursts.

You will find varying opinions on how to break in an engine, but this is what I did (about 5000mi later so far so good)
Fresh oil and filter (duh), but I used conventional. I heard you shouldnt break an engine in on synthetic, but Im not positive. Dont go too thin (this first change came out like water). Since you have a new cam, you need to break it in as well. Keep it at 2k RPM for 20 min. Your gut reaction will not want to do this, but thats how the cam companies say. It will smoke like crazy, thats just the assembly lube/oil.
After cam break in, fresh oil and filter. This will last abou 500 miles, at first take it easy, then you need to throw in some higher RPM. Drastic RPM changes to seat the rings. A couple full throttle pulls as well. Then change filter and oil. This is the point where I put in synthetic. I packed up the truck 3 days later and drove from Eastern KY to Houston, around Houston, and back. No problems, engine runs great.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cheers for the tips Nick!
I'm used to labeling the wiring harness like mad, due to normally doing motor swaps in EFI rigs :thumb:
The clips are a PIA, but the spare motor had the wiring harness on it, and all clips are back in their respective plugs, so will have a spare of everything if needed :thumb:
I think the o2 sensor plugs broke on the old motor, so I know to look out for those anyway. :pray:
I use the snot out of assembly lube when I rebuild a motor (I ALWAYS rebuild a motor before it goes into it's new home to rule out anything else if it doesn't run right etc), as well as give everything a **** good soaking.
Good call on your priming idea. I was going to do some research on priming this thing up before starting, and using Vaseline etc probably wont work due to me being away from home for so long. So sounds like lots of assembly lube, oil everywhere, then crank with no fuel/spark will sort it out. I will also probably fit a mechanical fuel gauge to ensure good pressure before starting too :thumb:
20 minutes at 2k rpm's will no doubt sound like torture to my ears, but I will do whatever Crowler says :thumb:
If you or anyone else has any "tips n tricks" to make my life easier, I am all ears!
Many thanks!

Martin
 

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Couple other tips regarding engine removal-

-If you take the exhaust manifolds off towards the beginning of working, stuff a rag into the Y-pipe inlet. If anything can be dropped in there, it will be dropped in there. I dropped my wrench in there for the bellhousing bolts. I started to disconnect the Y pipe to shake it out, but ended up breaking the studs that clamp it to the rear exhaust by the muffler (ended up being like $70 or something to get it fixed). I used a coat hanger wire to fish it out of there.

-Im not sure if you have removed the radiator or not, but its pretty easy. Just be careful with the overflow outlet. As you know, its made of plastic and is fragile. A rubber "coupler" attatches to it, which then attatches to a hard plastic tube/pipe that goes to the over flow tank. Instead of taking the rubber coupler off the radiator itself, take it off the plastic pipe that goes to the tank. Leave it attatched to the radiator and you are less likely to break it (although if it really is that fragile it could break in the future).
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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9,261 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Cheers Nick!
The manifolds will be coming off the old motor too, as they are leaking I think.
The manifolds on the motor that is getting rebuilt look very good, so they will be going into the rig when it's all said and done.
I know all about the stupid plastic nipples on radiators, I have had to replace 2 Jeep radiators over the years due the stupid things breaking off!
The rad will be getting a thorough inspection too, although I am hoping a good flushing will suffice....

Martin
 

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I'm going to keep a keen eye on this thread, as this is something I'd love to do to ol' Priscilla. Don't have enough time on my hands atm though, so I'll wait patiently, and live vicariously through this thread while I wait. `)
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hell, I am on the road at the moment, so not a lot of progress here neither!
The block, pistons, crank, rods, cam and heads are at the machine shop (all old parts). I need to order the new parts and then have them do their machine work magic when I get a chance to.
Also waiting on them pressure testing and decking the heads, then I can do the rest to them...

Martin
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Final list from the machine shop....
Heads skimmed and pressure tested, they tested fine thank god! Intake surface not out enough to justify the extra $90, D&D said they will be just fine.
Block had a 2thou low spot on the cylinder head mounting surface, so will be decked to make it 100% flat.
10/10 grind on crank. They will get the bearings in and torqued down, then grind to perfection instead of doing a "stock" grind. No need to measure anything when they are done. :thumb:
20 over rebore.
Install new cam bearings, freeze plugs and galley plugs.
After all the measuring etc they did initially, and the cleaning of the heads and block, will be a few $$$ but hopefully well worth it :pray:
D&D will be calling me back with a shipped price for:
20 over pistons, rings and pins.
Cam kit (Crowler)
Bearing kit for rod and mains.
ARP head studs.
2 new rocker shafts and D&D's custom supports.
Freeze and galley plugs.
Full gasket and seal kit (OEM IIRC)
Will be working till next year me thinks :lol:
Should be a very strong motor when done ;)

Did I miss anything (hopefully something cheap if I did)?
Martin
 

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Yes Martin, you missed the pictures :lol:
Great work.

I will be doing the same soon because my RR just beat the 300k mark, all working well but it's time to start thinking on a new engine, I have two solutions, or try to rebuilt another engine, or I try to find a 530d engine + wiring to put in there... humm let's see :wink:

Cheers
Meanwhile, tomorrow my audi heater core arrives :wink:
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No pictures yet, because the block is at the machinist, and the parts are in a different state! :lol:
Let me know if you need anything with the heater core, but I think I covered it all in the thread.
Make sure you have a sharp hacksaw blade on had for @90 seconds of cutting inside the matrix where that center rib is (or was in my case) :thumb:

Martin
 

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Hey Martin-

Get to work! Got my popcorn, waiting for the show.

-Jason

leftlanetruckin said:
No pictures yet, because the block is at the machinist, and the parts are in a different state! :lol:
Let me know if you need anything with the heater core, but I think I covered it all in the thread.
Make sure you have a sharp hacksaw blade on had for @90 seconds of cutting inside the matrix where that center rib is (or was in my case) :thumb:

Martin
 
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