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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Seems like the pistons and rods are good to go.

The sludge in the pan is the smoking gun about the history of this engine! Were there any gritty bits in the sludge or was it all smooth? Gritty bits are always a cause for concern but smooth sludge generally indicates that the oil has just been left in and 'cooked' for far too long. Looks like you've cleaned it up really well just like the other engine bits.

When all this is back together then get always use the best engine oil you can get/afford. The spec is semi-synthetic and I have read some reports where fully synthetic oil has leeched through some of the gaskets - not sure of the science or veracity of such claims.

I use semi-synthetic which Land Rover say is good for 12k miles - I always change mine at half that distance! I acquired the vehicle when it had done 38k miles and with a full service history. I changed the oil every 3k miles for the next couple of years and, initially, the oil came out very black after 3k miles but then gradually lightened up which is when I switched to 6k mile changes. The sump has been off once about three years ago and was very clean and when the heads were off some years earlier they were also very clean so I'm content that this regime is good - may be a bit of overkill but I always like to look after engines with a diet of good fresh oil and filters and they've always looked after me!

Also worth noting that these aluminium engines should also have the correct coolant and kept to spec/changed regularly otherwise internal corrosion can occur - not evident on your block and heads though which is good news.

As for not being a master mechanic - not really required. These engines (in fact the whole of these vehicles) are easily maintained with basic tools, a good understanding of how they operate and, of course, RAVE. When (note when, not if) the EAS plays up then refurbishing the valve block, compressor, air bags etc. is also very straightforward and for someone who can readily strip down an engine like this it will be a doddle - all the instructions are on this site . . . . . . somewhere!
 

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Since my engine was rebuilt about 130k ago, I've used fully synthetic oil and changed it every 10k. Still comes out clean although running on LPG helps that.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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No problems with fully synthetic and leaks?
 

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No, none at all.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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511 Posts
Thanks Richard. I always had a feeling the tales of fully synthetic oil causing leaks were a bit far fetched. Next oil change (coming up soon) I might switch to fully synthetic.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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342 Posts
Good grief! £90! Pleased ours is (relatively) about half that price. Edge 10/60 £9.35/l Vs £22.50/l and we think it is way over priced!
 

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Thing with ECP is nobody ever pays full price unless they are stupid or blind. If you look at the top of the page there's a code which normally will drop oil prices by 40 or 50%. It's still overpriced but changing it every 10,000 miles that's only twice a year.
 
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Well, I’m impressed!
it looks like your doing a wonderful job. I’m sure your efforts will be rewarded.
My 98 P38 4.6 is in exactly your condition before strip down with it running well but increasing oil consumption.
you have inspired me.
What is the cost?
good luck
alan
 

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2000 P38a RR 4.6 HSE
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Expenditures to date.

All costs USD$

Head gasket Kit STC4082 - $220
Timing Chain Replacement Kit (atlantic british) - $120 - No Part Number
The above Kits include all gaskets and o-rings for a complete rebuild of the 4.6
NKG Plugs 8 pack PFR6N-11 3546 - $78
Main bearings Glyco STC4299 / H1142/5 STD - $76
Con Rod bearings Glyco STC1426 STD - $45
Piston rings Set of 8 STC1427 - $124
New oil and filter - $50
New Coolant - $70
Various small items, brake clean, sand paper, brushed, razor blades et cetera approx. $150
Shipping (your costs will vary) $100
Total $1033
Hours of labor so far - 25 total and 10 being in the renewal of the pistons and oil pan.
I'm waiting on the rings and the timing chain kit to show up. Everything else has been done that can be without them.
 

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2000 P38a RR 4.6 HSE
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Valve Lapping and installed new valve seals from Kit STC4082 -
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Main bearing replacement -
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When I installed the new mains I was able to correct the end float excess. The spec is 0.003 - 0.010" I had 0.0115 prior to replacement and now have 0.0045 or 0.005. Probably 0.00475 but I don't have a gauge that can measure that small. I got the 0.0045 with a firm push on the pry and 0.005 throwing all my weight behind the pry bar.

The difference between the two center pads on the old vs. new main bearings was visually evident, I didn't measure the difference with my calipers because is was easily visible, but I think the two center pads on the thrust portion of the bearing were causing the weird wear on the con rod bottom bearings (#'s 8, 7 and 3 from photos earlier in this thread) that looked like twisted rod marks. I carefully measured the con rods and they didn't have any twist or buckle.

I think I answered my own question, from post #12 in this thread:

" End Float was 0.0115", just above the tolerance. 0.0015" more than Rave says is the max. I ordered new main bearings and will attempt to get it within the limits set by Rave when I install the new bearings, if that's possible. I think from what I've read I should be able to get it back within tolerance when I put the new bearings in. If I cannot, I guess I'll have to live with 0.0015" extra float. Is this 0.0015 going to cause problems, if so what would they be? "

From what I've been able to research on crank end float, it can cause all sorts of problems but one of them is bottom or top con rod ring distorted wear patterns. I won't get in to the technical stuff here, but basically when the crankshaft can move too far (end float) it also pulls the con rod slightly out of line with the journal and the bottom or top bearing will show side wear marks that at first glance look like twisted rod symptoms.
 

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My 2002 P38 #3 cylinder was pulling in coolant. I did a block up rebuild. One thing I wish I did was spray Permex seal on the head gaskets. R/R says to put them on dry. I disagree. But I did put them on dry. Also, the head bolts are 'stretch' type, meaning there's no end torque setting, only rotating your long breaker bar with an extension to where one thinks they will snap off. I set them at 90 foot-pounds afraid of going any further according to their weird torquing directions. In hindsight, I would have purchased the head stud kit with nuts that can be suitably torqued to a known setting. Make sure you have the correct hoses on the very strange thermostat. If one similar hose is reversed, it will always overheat. Other than that, there's a lot of sharp plastic parts that will cut into the top of your hands... John B. Spokane
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I’m also going through an engine rebuild and am in the process of cleaning the pistons. I’ve found Goof Off Pro makes removing the carbon from off the crown and in the oil rings just easy. Only using a rag and a brass brush to speed it along. You can get it by the gallon at Home Depot for $20 USD plus a few dollars more for the brushes. I first tried acetone and letting them soak overnight, but this product works much better.
 

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2000 P38a RR 4.6 HSE
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33 Posts
Discussion Starter · #34 ·
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Finally got the rings and timing chain. 2 weeks ago.

Put her back together, in about 15-16 hours over the long holiday weekend, and have driven 1380 miles in the last 2 weeks! No Issues! She is getting about 18-18.5 US-MPG. Changed the oil at 550 miles after rebuild. I will give her another oil change in the next few hundred miles.

Haven't lost a drop of oil!!!!!!!!!!!!! I think the clogged oil rings and poor maintenance by a previous owner was the cause to the oil burning.

One issue, the secondary air unit located on the right hand side - aft of the battery has 3 rubber dampers, they have decided to quit!!! Are the dampers replaceable? OR, do I need a new unit?

not the best photo but you can see the split and cracked dampers.
294637
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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They look like the standard sort of mounts fitted to the old classic fuel pumps.
 

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Well done, you've done a really good job and a nice write up too. Hopefully it will encourage a few others to get stuck in and do a bit more work themselves rather than paying through the nose for mechanics to do an inferior job.

Do you actually need the SAI in your area? It was only fitted to NAS cars and only needed in some States. There's been another thread on here where taking it off and replacing the solenoid valve and pump with a couple of resistors to stop the CEL looks to be possible.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Great stuff Derek and good to see all appears well and the oil burn is now under control. Regular oil and filter changes with good quality items now the order of the day.

Don't forget the other fluids - I've just performed the regular change of brake fluid and coolant as well as a regular oil and filter change. I change the brake fluid on all my cars every three years and the coolant (with back flushing) every six years i.e.with every second brake fluid change. Also make sure the pollen/cabin filters are regularly changed and I had to make up my own neoprene gaskets for the pollen filter covers as the old ones were toast and they are NLA. I'm sure a lot of the problems reported with the blend motors etc. are caused by too much crap being ingested into the system as well as moisture/water from poor hygiene/sealing of the pollen filters.

Regarding the SAI mounts I'm sure a man of your calibre can fabricate some home made anti vibration mounts if the originals are NLA. Personally, I would junk the system if it's not required round your way. Modern EFI systems only use the SAI for a short period after start up to clean up any unburnt HC emissions (due to any overfuelling on a cold start) and help get the cats up to temperature quickly before then shutting off and leaving the cats to do the work.
 

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For the secondary air pump vibration insulating mounting bolts, check out Rockauto. I've gone ahead and fabricated my own mounts, but a decent looking OEM style mounts can be had for relatively cheap.
 

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2000 P38a RR 4.6 HSE
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Unfortunately, I cannot delete the secondary air. I’m in California (Marin County) and they have outrageous smog rules. I’ll see about fabricating the dampers or check rockauto.
I really appreciate all your information and help.
Many of you have helped me along the way whether by direct reply or on an unrelated thread that I read in my research.

side note - GROM is absolutely amazing- I installed it and I cannot believe how much it has made me fall in love with car (truck!😋) all over again!
 
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