RangeRovers.net Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Gents,I replaced a 4 liter with a 4.6.The cam from the 4.6 had signs of wear, the cam and lifters from the 4.0 are 15000kms old, engine ran alright, just worn, no ticking or knock, so I put the cam and lifters from the 4.0 in the 4.6.4.6 runs without any noises when cold, when she warms up slowly a knock appears, when I rev her up the knock disappears. It's the same kind of knock as what I hear on the Youtube clips.My actual question; can lifters who are good, start making noise after they have been put in in another engine? I didn't put them in the same position as in the 4.0. If yes, could I have prevented this? If yes, how?Another question;My P38 4.6 HSE 1996 has a sport mode on the gearbox, this works, when put in low I can select manual, what does this manual do? I can't find anything different when I push the button..Thanks :)
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,310 Posts
Manual means it only uses the gear you have selected. So if you select Low 3rd, it will go through 1st, 2nd and 3rd but not go into 4th. With the Manual button in and in Low 3rd, it will only use 3rd, not 1st or 2nd, it will just stop the torque converter from locking up until you reach the right speed for the gear.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
42 Posts
The knock on the start up could be due to oiling issues see if your oil light stays on a couple of seconds when you start the engine cold mine did the same thing and it was because it was fitted with Britpart oil filter with no non-return valve so it was having to fill the filter before getting any oil to the engine but it could be worn oil pump as well, also you might as well do a compression test .
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Manual means it only uses the gear you have selected. So if you select Low 3rd, it will go through 1st, 2nd and 3rd but not go into 4th. With the Manual button in and in Low 3rd, it will only use 3rd, not 1st or 2nd, it will just stop the torque converter from locking up until you reach the right speed for the gear.
Aha, thanks!
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
The knock on the start up could be due to oiling issues see if your oil light stays on a couple of seconds when you start the engine cold mine did the same thing and it was because it was fitted with Britpart oil filter with no non-return valve so it was having to fill the filter before getting any oil to the engine but it could be worn oil pump as well, also you might as well do a compression test .
On start up she's quiet, the knock appears when the engine is warm and goes when I rev it up.
 

·
Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
455 Posts
Reinhoud I am not supposed to answer as i'm not 'Gent' but I have live there so maybe it is ok then :)
if you knock depends on engine temperature, as thanos says, please check you oil pressure.

it should be 2,06 a 2,7 bars at 2400 rpm when hot .
Which oil are you using?
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Reinhoud I am not supposed to answer as i'm not 'Gent' but I have live there so maybe it is ok then :) if you knock depends on engine temperature, as thanos says, please check you oil pressure. it should be 2,06 a 2,7 bars at 2400 rpm when hot . Which oil are you using?
Hmmm, I did reply, but apparently it didn't show up...I will check the pressure.This 4.6 is dropped into a Discovery 1, all the parts to make the 4.6 work in a 3.9 are put over into the 4.6.The cam and lifters were only 15000kms old, the 3.9 was running alright, it was just a bit worn, and I couldn't say no to a 4.6 for $550, this was the most important reason. ;)Thanks.Keep you informed.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm quite sure I put Valvoline Engine armour in her 10W30 or 40, I the reviews aren't too positive, may be do an oil change...
 

·
Premium Member
1970-1995 Range Rover Classic
Joined
·
455 Posts
Definitely. Valvoline 10w 30 is a cold climate oil. Methinks Tasmania isn't arctic.
I'm quite sure I put Valvoline Engine armour in her 10W30 or 40, I the reviews aren't too positive, may be do an oil change...
Enviado desde mi SM-A720F mediante Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
496 Posts
as off now the temps in Tassie are between 1 and 12 deg c depending on where you are standing
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Made an oil pressure gauge thingy and checked the pressure.Cold it's between 2.8 and 3 bar, when at operating temperature at idle it's abourt 1.5 bar, when I rev her up the pressure doesn't go higher as 3 bar.When I rev her up so that the pressure goes to about 2 bar, the knock is almost gone..When cold the pressure doesn't raise no matter how many revs, that gives me the impression that the pressure relief valve does it's job.So, oil pressure is too low.Next challenge, how to raise it..
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The oil what was in was 15W something, I put 20W something in her, and the pressure is slightly higher, but the nock starts now when the pressure is still at 2.5 bar, but shows up when the engine gets warmer..
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,310 Posts
It's not an oil pressure problem then, that is fine. very good in fact. What I don't quite understand is you say that when cold it's at 2.8 to 3 bar (roughly 39 to 42 psi) but when you rev it, it doesn't go any higher? I would hope not, too much oil pressure can spread bearings eventually. So your oil pump is working correctly, the oil pressure relief valve is working correctly but you still have a knock. As you've changed the cam and followers but not kept them in the same places, I'd say it's one of the followers wearing the cam (or itself).
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
361 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Update;

I fiddled around with the valve lifters, this wasn't the case.

Later on when I used a screwdriver as a stethoscoop, it looked like the sound came from the timing cover.

Took the cover off and turned over the starter, it turned out that the camshaft moved in and out a bit, so the cam sprocket/chain was touching the cover.

I made a washer to keep the camshaft in it's place, and now the sound is gone..

Thanks for the input :)
 

·
Registered
2013-2015 Range Rover Sport
Joined
·
159 Posts
I didn't put them in the same position as in the 4.0.
Fyi, this is Big no no. Very likely you are going to tear up the cam or the lifters or both. A new cam is broken into the lifter mating surface almost immediately after start up of a new engine and during break in. Each lifter is then mated to its position on the cam. They form a wear pattern into each other. The lifter rotates as it moves up and down with the cycles of the cam lobe. If you swap lifter positions on the cam there is a good chance they will not rotate and will just wear out the cam or dish out the bottom of the lifter.
 

·
Registered
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
Joined
·
222 Posts
Fyi, this is Big no no. Very likely you are going to tear up the cam or the lifters or both. A new cam is broken into the lifter mating surface almost immediately after start up of a new engine and during break in. Each lifter is then mated to its position on the cam. They form a wear pattern into each other. The lifter rotates as it moves up and down with the cycles of the cam lobe. If you swap lifter positions on the cam there is a good chance they will not rotate and will just wear out the cam or dish out the bottom of the lifter.
They rotate, all of them.
If they rotate, then they will last a bit longer before your cam or lifters are toast, but they will still wear.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top