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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all- 1st post here for me. I have a 98P38A that I bought used this past winter. We never received key fobs just two keys. It has been changed over to coils and shocks and has the EAS module that tells the system everything is ok. Neither key will unlock the door and when I try to start the display says engine immobilized press the unlock button on the remote.:-? How do I fix this w/o a remote?
 

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WIthout special equipment you don't. Sadly many people simply ignore a failed remote/lack of remote until it is too late... thus you are pretty much screwed. At this juncture you need to order a remote, most likely replace your drivers latch and if you are really lucky you will be afforded the chance to ship your BeCM off to a specialist to have it reset because if you keep playing around with it your rig will lock down.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #3
Ouch ok. Our rover was sold to us this way so we were unaware of the danger... Ordering a remote no issue, but what is the special equipment that would/could get us moving again at least until the new remote comes in?
 

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Testbook,autologic,Blackbox MSV,nanocom etc.Basically specialist diagnostic equipment designed specifically for use with the P38 RR.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks John w. Is there anyone in the Colorado Springs, CO area that has the diag equipment mentioned by John W.?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi, I had the same problem with my p38.
The problem is that one of your door lock mechanism micro switches is bust and the becm is confused.
You need to replace the door lock mechanism as it is not possible to source the micro switches anywhere!

Here is a quick work-around to disable the immobilizer and get it started, which I found on the web when I had the problem.
You will however need to replace the door lock mechanism and not lock the car with the key until you have replaced the unit.

I will add as a foot note, that I had to replace the passenger side lock mechanism (which would not work either along with the rear trunk latch) after I replaced the drivers side mechanism. The rear trunk latch and passenger side door functionality are connected. Don't bother trying to source used door mechanisms as the micro switches are usually bust also.

Anyways here is the work-around. You'll have to remove the door card and locate the connector which is behind the airtight membrane at approx 8 o'clock from the center of the door when you have removed the card.
Happy Hunting!


How to disarm the alarm...... I have discovered a way to override the range rover alarm system. I recently had the unpleasurable experience of the transmitter not responding while the vehicle was armed in the super locking mode. So the first thing I tried was the EKA procedure.....It did not work, in fact all it did was open the driver's door and trigger the alarm. All of the other doors including the rear hatch remained super locked. I attempted to start the vehicle and got a display on the dash that said "ENGINE IMMOBILIZED". I tried to resync the transmitter and that didn't do any good. After about an hour of trying to start the truck I got fed up and took of the driver's door panel to have a look at the wiring. I found a harness that comes from the actuator and plugs into the door control module; it has seven wires in it. Orange w/ black actuator motor Pink w/ black actuator motor Blue w/ red alarm arm/ *alarm disarm Green w/ red *alarm disarm Purple w/ white doors unlock Orange w/ white Black *ground Grounding the blue/red wire momentarily arms the alarm and locks the doors. Grounding the blue/red wire a second time activates the super locking mode. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is armed will trigger (panic) the alarm. Grounding the blue/red wire when the alarm has been triggered will silence the horn and stop the parking lights from flashing. *I discovered that if you ground the blue/red wire & the green/red wire at the same time it disarms the security system even if it is in super locking mode, the immobilizer is also disarmed and allows the vehicle to be started. Grounding the green/red wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state locks the doors without arming the alarm. Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state unlocks the doors. My actuator was unplugged when I tested my new findings.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #7
Auslander, thank you for the reply. I plan to speak with some specialists on Rovers today and get their input as well. One way or another I have to get this vehicle operational this week!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks All for your posts. After some work the guys at Pikes Peak Rovers:thumb: (not a dealer) found that the drivers door lock linkage had broken. Luckily, no micro switch issues or anything else. Linkage has been repaired and we're back truckin'. :-o
 

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My initial thought is that you got into the vehicle ok, the door unlocked and you attempted to start it...the linkage can't have been that bad, but it probably did miss the CDL microswitch.
 

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That was my same train of thought and why I didn't post the obvious of checking linkage. :oops:
 

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auslander, my hat is off to you. I have been having huge issues with this same problem and have called my dealer, posted on this forum etc, etc. and you sir, win the prize for being the one and only tech to disarm the locking mechanism. congratulations, i hope you stick around
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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quick question auslander, I am going to soon have to take my RR in to have lock system/handles serviced as apparently the cables have stretched and the door handles are increasingly difficult to open, that may be the time to disarm the system. 1) Does your approach disarm the security system completely? and 2) do the passenger doors unlock themselves when you open the drivers door or do you then do this manually? rear hatch? Thanks!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hello cold chilla,

I cannot take credit for the information which I supplied, as I found it on the web myself after some serious head scratching! Wrt to your question...
To the best of my knowledge the p38a does not have any form of a cable in the door lock mechanism assembly except for the inner door opening mechanism.
If SC has a corrosive environment during Winter it is possible that the hinge pin in the external door release is partially seized. That being said, I have to say that the money that i spent on two new door mechanisms was worth every cent. I have had zero issues with the Rangie electrically since they were replaced. I think that they ended up costing Genuine about $250 per side. I spent much time diagnosing the source of the gremlins and am convinced that a large portion of posts pertaining to immobilizer, non start and central locking are directly attributable to this common failure point.
To answer your questions..
1) yes the approach which i posted completely disarms and resets the locks system to open and resets the immo back to allow the vehicle to be started. DO BE AWARE that if you lock the vehicle after performing the reset that have outlined, the faulty door micro switch will probably cause the fault to reoccur.
Bear in mind that EKA (Emergency Key Access) proceedure will not work if the micro switch in the door mechanism is faulty as the BeCM will never receive the correct input string from the faulty switch which usually fails NO (Normally Open)
2) If your passenger door mechanism microswitches are functioning correctly the passenger door and the rear hatch should open with the drivers door. If as happened in my case, where I replaced the drivers door mechanism and still had functionallity issues withe the passenger door lock and rear hatch operating erratically - then the source of the fault is most definitely the passenger side door lock mechanism.

N.B.> for anyone reading this please bear in mind that I am discussing a LHD vehicle. The logic functionallity of a RHD vehicle may be different!



I am including the body of my earlier post in a clearer format as i asked God for the ability to edit my posts, but he has not gotten back to me yet.

How to disarm the alarm......

I have discovered a way to override the range rover alarm system.
I recently had the unpleasurable experience of the transmitter not responding while the vehicle was armed in the super locking mode.
So the first thing I tried was the EKA procedure.....It did not work, in fact all it did was open the driver's door and trigger the alarm. All of the other doors including the rear hatch remained super locked.
I attempted to start the vehicle and got a display on the dash that said "ENGINE IMMOBILIZED". I tried to resync the transmitter and that didn't do any good.
After about an hour of trying to start the truck I got fed up and took of the driver's door panel to have a look at the wiring.
I found a harness that comes from the actuator and plugs into the door control module; it has seven wires in it.

Orange w/ black actuator motor

Pink w/ black actuator motor

Blue w/ red alarm arm/ *alarm disarm

Green w/ red *alarm disarm

Purple w/ white doors unlock

Orange w/ white Black

*ground Grounding the blue/red wire momentarily arms the alarm and locks the doors.
Grounding the blue/red wire a second time activates the super locking mode.

Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is armed will trigger (panic) the alarm.

Grounding the blue/red wire when the alarm has been triggered will silence the horn and stop the parking lights from flashing.


****I discovered that if you ground (to the black wire in the connector) the blue/red wire & the green/red wire at the same time it disarms the security system even if it is in super locking mode, the immobilizer is also disarmed and allows the vehicle to be started.

Grounding the green/red wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state locks the doors without arming the alarm.

Grounding the purple/white wire while the alarm is in a disarmed state unlocks the doors.

The actuator was unplugged from the drivers side door lock module when I tested these findings.



I hope that this information will help others, as know one else seems to know about it!
As i pointed out earlier i cannot take credit as someone in the bowels of the internet posted it previously.

Happy Starting,

Auslander
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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The info Auslander posted is really useful, but all you are really doing is 'fooling' the vehicle into thinking the latch is being operated by the key, or the sill lock etc.

In theory, with the correct sequence, you could even enter the eka code this way.

Once again, in theory, by mimicking the unlock procedure, yes the tailgate and other doors should unlock. This is done via the CDL switch and as long as the alarm is disarmed first, then this procedure should unlock the vehicle, no problem.

The alarm and immobiliser will disarm by grounding etc the correct wires as once again, this is basically just mimicking the micro switches that are activated in the latch when the key is turned in the lock etc.

Marty



Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Thanks for you insightful input Marty, but all I was really doing was 'helping' people who were locked out with the immobilizer activated to get the vehicle 'started'.

In theory, the idea of the forum is to assist people who are stuck and not to chime with a 'I'm smarter than you online attitude'. I give my time online as a mechanic freely as I believe that individuals who bother to look online and are willing to roll their sleeves up should be rewarded.

I can see that you are a very important person around these parts as you have a nearly 1500 posts, a little bit of knowledge and a lot of time invested in this site.

I on the otherhand only have three posts, of which this is one - am happy enough to fade into the distance and register with a new username, perhaps I could be the next person that you are stating the obvious to? Or throwing lots of etc's into a reply because it is frivolous to expand upon (read here that you don't fully understand it yourself)

Anyways in response to your points....

'fooling' the vehicle- yes, the door micro switch mechanism is not working and the vehicle immobilizer is activated. The work-around is an attempt to make the vehicle feel like an idiot and start without realizing that it has been conned.

The EKA code - Why bother with Morse code?

However please do explain to me exactly how to do that 'In theory'.
I know how to do it, but I would like you to elaborate exactly how- and you are not allowed use any etc's in your reply.
I will critique your response.

Next point...
"Once again, in theory, by mimicking the unlock procedure, yes the tailgate and other doors should unlock. This is done via the CDL switch and as long as the alarm is disarmed first, then this procedure should unlock the vehicle, no problem."

No Marty, if the passenger side door lock on a LHD, which has no key switch on it in the States has bust microswitches, the passenger door and rear tailgate will not operate consistently from the CDL (central door lock) switch on the drivers door.

Next point....
"The alarm and immobiliser will disarm by grounding etc the correct wires as once again, this is basically just mimicking the micro switches that are activated in the latch when the key is turned in the lock etc."

This does not really make much sense, but what I think you are trying to get at etc is that my original posting etc was pretty much to the point etc.

"I Love the Internet" - Auslander
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Auslander,

I said your post was really useful, and it is.

I was just writing what you were actually DOING by grounding various wires in the procedure you posted, as some people like to know what their actions are doing rather than just blindly connecting wires together. I for one, like to understand what I am doing - especially when connecting up wires to do with the central locking/alarm as it is obvious from the number of threads on this site alone as to what can happen (BECM lockout and the likes) if you're not careful.

CDL switch and tailgate - I don't know exactly how it works on a LHD, but in both LHD and RHD versions, the earthing signal for the tailgate is still driven from the RHF latch's CDL switch. You are right though, the other doors may not open from the RHF latch - I just figured they would, seeing as if you are inside the vehicle (on my RHD anyway) if you use the sill lock on either front door, then they both operate the central locking for the rear doors aswell.

I say 'in theory' about the EKA because it could be done. I'm not saying you would WANT to do it - the EKA code an be difficult enough to input sometimes whilst using the key especially if the spring, latch, or linkages have any play in them. I am not going to bother writing how to do it, because it is not going to add anything to this topic, nor do I want to start a post war as it's not going to help the OP/

You're telling me I've got an 'I'm smarter than you' attitude, yet you tell me you're going to critique a response from me? I guess I'll just bow down to you then as you are much smarter and more versed than myself on this matter if you feel like you have to critique my response.

I'm going to leave this thread now, because any input from me is obviously unwanted - but if you want to make your original post even better, then why not edit it (or repost it a third time) to actually include what each wire colour is, and it's function to make it even clearer as to what grounding each wire does? All the information is in the ETM.
 

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Woa guys zip em up and go take a break. Auslander, I am not sure what kind of sites you are use to frequenting but such trashing and calling out of any members on RRnet is totally and completely uncalled for. Marty is long time member that has helped many members out of jambs and saved their sanity with his wealth knowledge and generous attitude. I suggest you take a moment to read through our guidelines and rethink if your style of posting and forums habits are a good fit.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover Classic
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A little feed back on disarming the alarm by jumping wires at the actuator. The fob on a newly acquired '96 P38 did not work nor would the key do anything.So the vehicle is one of our "no lock" vehicles. Our daughter's friend while getting out of the passenger side, locked the passenger door which locked everything. She unlocked it, which unlocked everything before shutting the door, but when she shut the door everything locked. I was able to unlock the passenger door with a notched old saw blade but then had the alarm going off and engine imobilized. Jumping the green/red and blue/red - while attached to the actuator - disarmed the alarm. I then disconnected the seven lead plug and everything locked. I reconnected all plugs, jumped green/red and blue/red,disconnected battery, then disconnected all plugs from actuator on driver's side. Engine now mobilized and no alarm going off. Passenger side will lock everything but driver door - actuator disconnected. I tried to jump green/red and blue/red to black ground with plug unplugged and got nothing. I had ground but nothing was hot with plug disconnected. So that is why I reconnected. You do not need to strip insulation off wires and could just use a pin or single strand of copper to jump by pushing into the back of the plug or using two pins to pierce the insulation and jump that way. When removing the door panel, there is a hidden screw in the top right corner behind the triangular black plastic trim piece. The other two screws in the arm rest are obvious. The panel pops straight off,not up and off like some other vehicles. Most of the clips holding panel to door cracked anyway. door panel screw.jpg actuator connected.jpg actuator location.jpg wires insulation stripped.jpg
 

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Just thought I'd second that the groudning works. I took of the panel after my wife took the fob with her on a business trip on accident. I tried the EAC to no avail. IT has worked in the past but not this time.

Took of the door. Unplugged the 7 wire connector. Pushed a copper wire into the back of both the red/green and blue/red and plugged it back in. Alarm went off but when I unlocked it reset the master lock.

Pulled out the wire. Replaced the door.
 

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thankkkkkkkkk youuuuuu the best way to thank you for all your post, save my life stranded 120miles away from home :thumb:
 
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