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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Funny, I was also thinking $4k - $7k is a fair private party range before he posted those numbers. Haha.

I have always stated my own value when I donate to the Salvation Army - and they do accept non-running cars.

Even if the organization assigns a value, it will be interesting to see how high they go. KBB has his HSE's value around $16,000 in "FAIR" condition, which already factors in a need for mechanical work. Subtract a bit for its non-running condition. I seriously doubt the organization's appraisers have any idea how much parts+labor is for an AJV8.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Fair condition states "some" mechanical repairs needed. That doesn't, in my opinion, cover an entire engine for a luxury European vehicle!
Something that the OP can certainly look into, but I personally doubt it will fly (and if it did, I wouldn't want to be on that flight!).

Martin
 

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....go between different types of oil ...
That shouldn't cause Pistons or bearings to seize. A good oil, synth or Dino and filter changed regularly should be fine. Lower grade might make parts wear, but not fail catastrophically at less than 100k miles.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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LSx engine.jpg
Thats the engine bay in my own P38, 6.0 liter LSx and 4L60E......I think a MkIII with an all aluminum LS6 would be killer! Not to mention cheaper than a replacement engine with 100k miles on it already.

Martin
 

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?...If the rest of the truck is MINT, she's still worth much less than 10,000 I'm afraid. Just normal repairs on these are fairly expensive. I would hazard to say that at least 95 percent of the range rover buying population will run from this.

The only real option is to fix it, or take a huge loss :(
A replacement engine from British Atlantic is about $10,500.
If it were otherwise mint, it'd be up to the buyer.
Someone in the market to buy will undershoot the price 99% of the time, which could include a person or two weighing in on this topic currently.
Someone in the market to sell a vehicle they've owned will overshoot by an equal amount out of sentiment 99% of the time.

I still think the whole total destruction thing is still questionable, unless the owner sees the damage first hand, and I don't mean just that it dumped oil in very cold weather, and had a knock.
Take the oil out of any engine, and it'll knock.
Two words: hydraulic lifters.

Did you (Dillinger) find that reference about these engines having a habit of blowing?

By the way, great posts on the Jaguarforums on the mapping. Great stuff!
 

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Premium Member
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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That shouldn't cause Pistons or bearings to seize. A good oil, synth or Dino and filter changed regularly should be fine. Lower grade might make parts wear, but not fail catastrophically at less than 100k miles.
Agreed. IIRC, it's a myth that you cannot switch back and forth from synthetic to dino. Hopefully Martin will weigh in on this
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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The only thing that switching from regular oil to synthetic will do, is change everything into dyno oil unless flushed. There are absolutely ZERO ill effects as far as sludge etc go, the two will just blend together and go to the lowest grade is all. So basically it is stupid to add 2 quarts of $10 a quart synthetic, to a motor that is running $10 a gallon Castrol GTX, and so on.
With modern oils being what they are, I couldn't imagine a failure like this being due to the oil used unless it "fell off the back of a lorry" etc. A totally junk filter could starve the motor I guess, but again, these days.....
After @800 miles, I see nothing the shop did as being wrong myself, and would certainly hate to have to prove otherwise. But this is why I do all my own work too...
Here is a motor that I recently replaced in a '04 Disco. The owner couldn't figure out why he kept blowing head gaskets....SHoddy top hat liner job is an understatement!
liner recessed.jpg cracked liner.jpg
Martin
 

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Two words: hydraulic lifters.
The AJV8 uses steel shimless bucket lifters, nothing hydraulic about them aside from keeping them wet so they can go up and down.

Again, I haven't seen a failure of this engine without an outside cause. If oil was pouring out of the bottom, clearly it was put into the engine. That said, I'm more confused about how it managed to still run(even making some noise) after it threw a rod through the block.
 

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The only thing that switching from regular oil to synthetic will do, is change everything into dyno oil unless flushed. There are absolutely ZERO ill effects as far as sludge etc go, the two will just blend together and go to the lowest grade is all. So basically it is stupid to add 2 quarts of $10 a quart synthetic, to a motor that is running $10 a gallon Castrol GTX, and so on.
With modern oils being what they are, I couldn't imagine a failure like this being due to the oil used unless it "fell off the back of a lorry" etc. A totally junk filter could starve the motor I guess, but again, these days.....
After @800 miles, I see nothing the shop did as being wrong myself...
Martin, that does remind me of some old, basic rules about mixing some oils with different bases causing sludge problems.
As I remember, mixing Mobil-1 with Castrol synth, or other "synthetics" (hydro cracked Dino oils) can produce sludge problems. You guys probably recall the specifics better than I do.
 

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The AJV8 uses steel shimless bucket lifters, nothing hydraulic about them aside from keeping them wet so they can go up and down....
Well, so much for those two words.
I was thinking the oil drain plug may have come loose and drained. Like Martin pointed out, 800 miles is a way down the road, but possible.

Also, as cold as the OP described, the PVC... Never mind, that's the BMW design. so that doesn't apply either.
I'm curious.
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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So what is the result then?
New engine, used engine, or ??

Martin
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #32
Hey everyone,

I really appreciate everyone's insight and comments. You've all been very helpful.

Just to give you an update, no progress yet. I'm waiting on a high-mileage used motor that I will have put in asap using a different mechanic (much cheaper, but just as capable) and then I'm going to sell it privately to prevent further heartache.

Anybody know of any non-Jag/Land Rover motors that will fit the 2007 HSE? I'd be open to looking for something else.

Regarding the other questions posed to me throughout this thread:

Oil & Oil Changes
I've only requested synthetic oil for oil changes, which have been every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Again, I purchased the car with 75,000 miles on it so I have no idea what the oil change intervals from the previous owner were, or if they went back and forth from standard oil to synthetic (possibly without knowing).

Other Maintenance from mechanic that performed most recent oil change
I had been having lots of trouble starting the car for several months, lots of "transmission fault, traction reduced" messages. Especially since it got exceptionally cold here in Michigan (to where the car wouldn't start at all) so I asked them to perform an electrical inspection.

Instead they just replaced the battery, which I called them out on, and that still didn't solve the problem. Even with a new battery the car straight up wouldn't start two mornings in the beginning of January (temperature below 0-F). They also replaced the rear brakes.

I don't think I'll be selling the car as is though for $4,000 - $7,000. Sorry guys, can't afford to do that. Please let me know if anybody wants any more information. I'll let you all know what happens.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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177 Posts
Hey everyone,

I really appreciate everyone's insight and comments. You've all been very helpful.

Just to give you an update, no progress yet. I'm waiting on a high-mileage used motor that I will have put in asap using a different mechanic (much cheaper, but just as capable) and then I'm going to sell it privately to prevent further heartache.

Anybody know of any non-Jag/Land Rover motors that will fit the 2007 HSE? I'd be open to looking for something else.

Regarding the other questions posed to me throughout this thread:

Oil & Oil Changes
I've only requested synthetic oil for oil changes, which have been every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Again, I purchased the car with 75,000 miles on it so I have no idea what the oil change intervals from the previous owner were, or if they went back and forth from standard oil to synthetic (possibly without knowing).

Other Maintenance from mechanic that performed most recent oil change
I had been having lots of trouble starting the car for several months, lots of "transmission fault, traction reduced" messages. Especially since it got exceptionally cold here in Michigan (to where the car wouldn't start at all) so I asked them to perform an electrical inspection.

Instead they just replaced the battery, which I called them out on, and that still didn't solve the problem. Even with a new battery the car straight up wouldn't start two mornings in the beginning of January (temperature below 0-F). They also replaced the rear brakes.

I don't think I'll be selling the car as is though for $4,000 - $7,000. Sorry guys, can't afford to do that. Please let me know if anybody wants any more information. I'll let you all know what happens.

have you tried to call THE ROVER SPOT see if you can get a good price on a used engine ?

if you are having problems with the car not starting when its cold try changing the starter
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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What kind of engine, a small block chevy? That type of modification would effectively take all value out of the truck, and you would never be able to sell it. When I was looking for mine I wouldn't even consider one that had any kind of modification from factory including some big blingy wheels and tires. I certainly wouldn't buy one with electric modifications. Most RR owners who would pay anywhere close to blue book value want them just the way the factory delivered them, and are uncomfortable with anything else.
 

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What kind of engine, a small block chevy? That type of modification would effectively take all value out of the truck, and you would never be able to sell it. When I was looking for mine I wouldn't even consider one that had any kind of modification from factory including some big blingy wheels and tires. I certainly wouldn't buy one with electric modifications. Most RR owners who would pay anywhere close to blue book value want them just the way the factory delivered them, and are uncomfortable with anything else.
It would also never be right. If you put an engine in that truck even on the cheap you're not getting your money back out of it. You're better off selling as is or parting it out.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Discussion Starter #37
Yea, you're right. I will just go with a standard 4.4L V8 range rover motor since I plan on selling the truck, at least as of right now.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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Couldn't have said it better myself.
Don't think that was a direct quote, but close. I've had and seen my share of previously owned cars where people have done some less that proper modifications, Audis where so PO has cut out a Bose stereo system and put in a 50 dollar Panasonic head unit, that you have to manually shut off when you get out of the car, and connected to the original Bose low impedance speakers with zip cord. I would just as soon stay away from other peoples modifications if I can avoid it. If I modify it I can live with the possibility of a loss in value to some future "typical" buyer. Now if I was selling it to some kind of off roading group, then maybe a big block chevy engine and a TH400 transmission and NP203 transfer case might not be a bad idea.
 

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2006-2009 Range Rover MkIII / L322
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I don't want to be a doom sayer but I'm fairly sure putting in a AJV8 4.4 will cause too many expensive problems to cure , all the ECU's talk to each other and especially the gear box will want to get its information for its changes from a 4.2 Supercharged engine , not saying it cant be made to work but no one outside JLR would have done it .
 
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