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My P38's key fob stopped working a few weeks ago, and it was the only one that came with the car. So it isn't on the road at the minute, I managed to get it started with the EKA code yesterday and tried again today, but when I turned the key to start it, it said 'Engine Disabled, Press Remote' rather than 'Engine Disabled, Press Remote or Enter Key Code' which is what it said when the EKA code worked. So is there a way of making it ask for the key code? Or another way to mobilise the engine? I have been quoted a price for a new fob from my local dealer but I need to get the car there first. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.


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The dealer does not need for the rig to be there at any time. The key comes preprogrammed. The only thing he could possibly need to cover his but is your ID and proof of ownership.
 

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Nope. DOn;t let them dupe you into thinking only they can Sync it either. Sync directions have been posted numerous times and takes even a beginner less than 15 seconds.

However you might want to pull apart your fob and see if a dirty contact or duff battery is at hand.
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Even if it doesn't ask for the code, you should still be able to enter it into the door lock to get the vehicle started.

Does the red LED on the fob light up when the buttons are pressed?

Another thing to check when changing the batteries is to make sure that the contacts on the PCB are in good condition, as they can get bent by the battery cover and not give a connection. Also they can tarnish over age so can't hurt to give them a clean too..

Marty
 

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JACK'S GRANDAD
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Hmmm, guess I'm getting more paranoid in my old age. Sending the remote to my Range Rover, along with my address for return shipping, to some guy on Ebay would make me do some MAJOR checking up on him first.
Granted a P38 is lower in value than a MkIII etc, but most at least are worth more than thirty quid!

Martin
 

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Hmmm, guess I'm getting more paranoid in my old age. Sending the remote to my Range Rover, along with my address for return shipping, to some guy on Ebay would make me do some MAJOR checking up on him first.
Granted a P38 is lower in value than a MkIII etc, but most at least are worth more than thirty quid!

Martin
Maybe, but he'd still have to fix the key to get it started!
 

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I have the same issue except once my EKA worked and now it doesn't. I would be interested to know the out come I spoke to Cheltenham dealership today and they wanted the car and the fob as well.

My key will not sync at all with the car even following the re sync instructions its had battery replacement and it worked for a month then died in early January and ever since stood. except one occasion the EKA worked.

Anyone local to Chepstow with software let me know certainly worth a nifty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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See the sticky at the top of the forum for instructions on how to test the microswitches in the front door latches. If any are faulty you will not be able to enter the EKA or sync the fobs.

You can take it to the dealer but all they will do is test the switches and then charge you for new door latches so you might as well save yourself a fortune and do it for yourself (or contact Marty_nz who refurbishes latches with new switches).
 

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I am pretty sure the micro switches are working as the red led light goes off on the dash when the EKA is entered and I get the clicking when entered as with the CL process. Am totally stumped with this but this is the joys of p38 ownership
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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I am based in Swindon, which isn't a million miles from where you are. I am away working at the moment, but am about next week again if you wanted to pop over and I can check it out for you. My rates are a lot more reasonable than any LR dealer!! Or if the vehicle is not startable/driveable then we can work out a time for me to come up to you.

There are 2 microswitches in the latch which are required for the resyncing of the key - the fact that the doors seem to lock OK, to me points towards probably it being the Key Switch, rather then the CDL switch, but without testing them, wouldn't know for sure.

Drop me a PM if you are interested in me taking a look for you.

Marty
 

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Cheers Marty appreciate the help

Gonna try a sync mate first will see how I get on as I cant fathom what it can be as the dash light seems to react to the code :-( have tried everything except the tests on the switches and the sync mate

If that fails will be in touch
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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The syncmate that you have is just to resync the BECM and the Engine ECU together for the immobiliser link. I don't think this is your problem as it sounds like you are having issues with getting the alarm disarmed and the immobiliser to turn off. A syncmate will only be of use after this has been done anyway - and only if the engine ECU/BECM have fallen out of sync - which seems to happen more with battery drain issues and the likes.

Let us know how you get on - I am almost certain that there is a problem with the drivers door latch though

Marty
 

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It may well be

When entering the eka the red dash light does go off though. When I got through the sequence of entering the eka. I ensure all the doors and bonnet are closed, so it appears the code is acknowledged but when I crank I get the engine disabled message. When I lock the car etc the dash light comes back on? To be honest I would rather not waste 150 nicker if its not the issue.
 

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I wouldn't hurry out an buy a syncmate, that's for sure as being out of sync doesn't generate the 'Engine Disabled' message. The 'Engine Disabled' comes from the BECM side of things, where the immobiliser is controlled from.

If you haven't already, download the file from the Sticky I wrote on testing the door latches at home, as it runs through all the tests on the microswitches. Test the drivers door latch and then you'll know for sure if there is a latch problem.

If the latch tests ok, then it could be possible the BECM has gone into lockout mode which would require it being hooked up to my diagnostics to reset it.

But from what you've described - my money is still on the latch so I'd get stuck in and test it.

Marty

EDIT - just re-read what you've said regarding the red light. Out of interest, on the final turn of the EKA code, to unlock, do all of the doors unlock with the central locking? Also just to be sure, when you've started putting the EKA in have all the doors (including drivers) been locked?
 

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The pigs ear I referred to is the lock in the latch. It works and always have but isn't the lock for the vehicle I have a blade for it and it is all connected to the actuator and locks and unlocks and works the eka etc

yeah I always lock the doors inside. With reference to the unlock when the EKA is entered I will have to let you know
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
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So you have a key blade for the door lock and then a separate remote/key for the ignition?

If the EKA has been accepted, then the first sign of it having been accepted the that all of the doors will unlock on the central locking system. If the doors don't unlock, then the EKA hasn't been accepted, or you have a bunch of dead door locking motors - which is pretty rare for all of them to fail at the same time (but not unheard of)...
 
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