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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

Fresh into the joys of P38s and immediately need some help and guidance. After about a month of enjoying the drive, my P38 (1999, 4.6 V8 Vogue GEMS) seems to have been upset about something. Coming back to it after finishing work, it just wouldn't accept the remote key (only one key!) to unlock / lock. The red indicator lights up both for lock and unlock so assume key transmitter working (New batteries in the fob, btw)

Since then I have tried the following (after scouring through the posts here for 2 days):

1) Got the EKA code and tried entering it
2) The system goes into "Keycode Lockout" after the first entry of the code (not 3 as I was told by the user manual)
3) Tried the Battery terminals off, ignition key in II, terminals reconnect - I am now left with a myriad of windows open alarms, etc. but can live with them until)
4) I tried to contact Jamesons Birmingham (looking up the forum) but the chap says he has had enough and doesn't really have the time for jobs like these - at least he was honest!
5) Looked at it for a while and asked myself - why did I! (But eventually gathered strength to try the EKA code again)
6) EKA code locked out again - However, it does seem to reset itself so is not in the "alarmed state" as I have read here

I want to know what could be the fault - From the readings so far, I believe this could be - Key, Door Lock actuator or worst- the BECM and I need some guidance as to where to start from.

Also any suggestions for a local garage - South Brum who has a diagnostic kit and would possible identify the issue?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Are you entering the eka correctly ? Lock position 4 times before starting the code at unlock, Are the indicators flashing on each change ? If yes to these questions, a nanocom/faultmate might do it, but you could have a becm problem . If code not entering ( indicators flashing) you could have a faulty door latch.
 

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FOUNDING MEMBER
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Try re-syncing the key with the BECM. Place key in door lock press the fob lock button then immediately physically lock the door using the key. Then press the unlock button on the fob and immediately physically unlock the door using the key. Remove key and see if fob will now lock/unlock the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Chris,

Thanks for your reply. Yes, I have entered the correct code with the correct procedure - Also tried to use the US generic code 1515 to see if that works (hope mixed with desperation, I think!)

Indicators do not flash with each change unfortunately hence not sure the code is going in. Will try to get a local who's got a Nanocom or Faultmate.
 

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This all sounds like a failed latch or a disconnected keyway rod. If the latch is not getting the signal that you are turning the key then there is no way to input the EKA or sync your remote.

When you turn the key are you feeling standard resistance or is it freely turning? If you are not feeling resistance your keyway rod may have come undone from the latch. If you are feeling resistance the your latch may have failed. I would not be concerned with the BeCM yet. BeCM failure is usually pretty rare and bits usually trace back to the latch.

I would remove the door panel, inspect for anything obviously disconnected or broken and test the latch following the stickie above.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This all sounds like a failed latch or a disconnected keyway rod. If the latch is not getting the signal that you are turning the key then there is no way to input the EKA or sync your remote.

When you turn the key are you feeling standard resistance or is it freely turning? If you are not feeling resistance your keyway rod may have come undone from the latch. If you are feeling resistance the your latch may have failed. I would not be concerned with the BeCM yet. BeCM failure is usually pretty rare and bits usually trace back to the latch.

I would remove the door panel, inspect for anything obviously disconnected or broken and test the latch following the stickie above.
Hi RRToadHall,

I can feel the resistance but will still try and get the car back home and play over the week or the weekend. My thoughts were if the BeCM were changed (did ask the seller but he doesn't know nor anything mentioned in the service history) then the code could be different and hence not working. But looks like the latch / Key rod along with the microswitch tests are the first to start with.

Would a plugin of the NANOCOM or similar be able to override this issue by accepting the keycode directly? Unless ofcourse it happens the next time round I'd need to put the keycode!

Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #9
This all sounds like a failed latch or a disconnected keyway rod. If the latch is not getting the signal that you are turning the key then there is no way to input the EKA or sync your remote.

When you turn the key are you feeling standard resistance or is it freely turning? If you are not feeling resistance your keyway rod may have come undone from the latch. If you are feeling resistance the your latch may have failed. I would not be concerned with the BeCM yet. BeCM failure is usually pretty rare and bits usually trace back to the latch.

I would remove the door panel, inspect for anything obviously disconnected or broken and test the latch following the stickie above.
Question I have is - what is stopping the car to not accept the code once the key is in ignition? Once the door lock is opened manually with a key, shouldn't the car accept that a valid key is used and hence allow engine to be operated?
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Unfortunately when a p38 throws a wobberly, it's not as easy as inserting the key,, stupid I know !
The door latch has rods attached to it, one of them also hits the micro switches for entering the eka. Have a look at the sticky on latch testing, you might be lucky and it's just a disconnected rod, if not I'm sure there's someone near you with a faultmate
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If you have a BECM with version V36 of higher of software on it, then it will accept the EKA (in theory) via nanocom or other diagnostics which allow you to disarm the BECM via the OBD port.

If the BECM is in a state where it is requiring the EKA then usually you can't just put the key in the ignition and have it sort itself out. I've heard of it doing it on some occasions - but as far as I can see there is no actual rhyme or reason for it to actually work, as the EKA lockout is different to resyncing the key.

My first port of call would be to test the door latch, and check the state of the microswitches. If they all are working, (I suspect that one of them might be the initial problem preventing the EKA from being accepted - as already mentioned - it needs BOTH the CDL and key switches to work properly before the BECM will be able to read the key turns of the EKA properly.

Worst case is that the BECM has gone into an alarm lockout mode, which needs specialist diagnostics to connect to the CPU and reset this lockout. If that is the case, then I have the tools to do it, and do a lot of BECM lockout resets by mail order, but also sometimes have owners bring the unit to me if they aren't too far away.

First things first, check the latch. If that's faulty, then get it sorted and try the EKA again - after waiting the prescribed amount of time for KEYCODE LOCKOUT to disappear again.

Marty
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Hi I Just replaced my drivers latch last week. I had random up and down locks for a while. Then it thought my alarm was still on and I did the key back and forth to get it to turn off alarm so it would start. I ordered this
http://www.roverlandparts.com/range-rover-door-latches.aspx
from these guys(I had no pigtail very important) and the very morning I went to put it in I could not get the alarm off so I could not drive anymore. Unscrewed my alarm speaker so it would not sound with lights flashing put in the new latch and everything went back to perfect.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you have a BECM with version V36 of higher of software on it, then it will accept the EKA (in theory) via nanocom or other diagnostics which allow you to disarm the BECM via the OBD port.

If the BECM is in a state where it is requiring the EKA then usually you can't just put the key in the ignition and have it sort itself out. I've heard of it doing it on some occasions - but as far as I can see there is no actual rhyme or reason for it to actually work, as the EKA lockout is different to resyncing the key.

My first port of call would be to test the door latch, and check the state of the microswitches. If they all are working, (I suspect that one of them might be the initial problem preventing the EKA from being accepted - as already mentioned - it needs BOTH the CDL and key switches to work properly before the BECM will be able to read the key turns of the EKA properly.

Worst case is that the BECM has gone into an alarm lockout mode, which needs specialist diagnostics to connect to the CPU and reset this lockout. If that is the case, then I have the tools to do it, and do a lot of BECM lockout resets by mail order, but also sometimes have owners bring the unit to me if they aren't too far away.

First things first, check the latch. If that's faulty, then get it sorted and try the EKA again - after waiting the prescribed amount of time for KEYCODE LOCKOUT to disappear again.

Marty
Hi Marty,

Door latch & microswitch check is what I have gathered I'd need to do first from various replies here.

What'd tell me the version of the software on the BeCM whether its V36 or higher? Any obvious lookouts?

Thanks again
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Is this the same one as going around on LandyZone aswell? I was reading it there and thinking it looked familiar from somewhere - and confused myself thinking I was sure I had replied about it! Which I had... just on a different forum!

The sticker on the top of the BECM fuse box (might be a bit faded) should have the info about versions on it. There should be a Micro: V 'xx' and PAM: V 'xx' on it which are the software numbers. If these are above 36, then you should be able to enter the EKA via diagnostics of the appropriate type!

Marty
 
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