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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys,

I'm having an issue with my NAS 99 bosch p38, and before I jump to conclusions (and assume it's the BECM) I just wanted to run my problem by the board first (and yes, I've searched and search), especially before I begin tearing out the BECM in below freezing temps.



I went away for a while and left my p38 parked for aprox 8 months or so. It was driven twice in that time, acted fine. It has a "battery saver" installed on it which cuts off the battery below 11.8 volts, and turns it back on once it sense a request for amps over X amps (so pressing the brake pedal). Problem is, this device has a small led that stays illuminated. Just one, but it possibly killed the battery. (which was beyond dead, but suffice to say, killed slowly). However battery has since been temporarily charged, soon to be replaced if I can get the thing out of my driveway.


Problem is central locking doesn't work via key, door knob, or fob, via any door. (So no EKA via door handle is possible). When trying to start the car (after manually getting into car via key, which only opens driver side door) I try to turn the car over, and I get "Engine disabled Press remote" (or something close to that).


I've tried the "friendly sync" via disconnecting the battery, putting the key in the ignition to pos II, then connecting the battery, then waiting a few moments, then attempting to turn it over, only to end up triggering the alarm. I've tried a dozen variations of this to no end.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,198 Posts
If you have the EKA code for it, then you can put the EKA in still, as long as the microswitches in the door latch are working as they should.

If the vehicle is locked and it loses charge, then when you come to unlock it, the key in the drivers door will only unlock the drivers door manually until the EKA is put in properly.

Being a later model you would need to turn the key 4x to the LOCK position before putting the EKA digits in.

Currently the vehicle is just doing what it should - staying locked after a flat battery. EKA code (assuming you have it) should be accepted (again assuming your door latch is in working condition) by the BECM in it's current state.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I hadn't read about the 4X before hand (ever) ... however I just tried it in combination w/ the EKA and, no go, no Sync.


Just in case I messed up, I'll try again in 30 minutes.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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4,198 Posts
The 4x turns to lock was only brought in on the later ones.

If it still doesn't work, then I would recommend testing the door latch to make sure all the micro switches actually are working properly..
 

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I will suggest trying this. Charge the car battery or replace it. Change the battery in the hand held control ( remote key ). After thats done, install the key in the driver door - unlock the door manually, when the key is still in the door press the door unlock knop on the remote. The door locks should go - click. Install the key in the ignition, turn an start ( if it doesnt start ) at pos 2 with the key in the ignition press the unlock button on the remote again ( verify a red light up on the key ) turn to start.

You should only need the EKA procedure if your remote is completely dead. The above resync should work, just be sure of fresh batteries.


Best regards Brage
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm leaning towards microswitches at the moment. Perhaps the cold got to them. (anything before the beam, right?)

When I put the key in the door handle (even when I press the buttons) I get zero feedback besides the physical latch (no lights, nothing on the dash, etc), and then as soon as I open the door, alarm.

At the moment battery is disconnected and back on the charger (eventually to be replaced), tomorrow I venture into/through the door card.
 

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LEGACY VENDOR
1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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If the vehicle was locked with the remote FOB and been unlocked with the key, then you will get the symptoms mentioned.

Just a standard resync of the key won't work if it's in an alarmed state. The vehicle needs to be disarmed and mobilised before it will accept attempts to sync the key FOB.

If the BECM had gone into total lockout mode then it won't even accept EKA and it is a case of having the BECM sent away to be unlocked.

However, it is wise to check the microswitches in the latch as failure of either the key switch or the CDL switch will prevent the EKA from successfully being entered aswell
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just a quick update. Fob battery was/is fine.

BECM (as dreaded) was the culprit. Sent it off to Scotty (of BECM Doctor fame) on Monday. He got it today (Wendsday) and it's already on the way back.

BECM was in lockdown. EKA mode was disabled. (also police mode was on)
There was no way I was getting in there w/o a new BECM or taking this one out.
 
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