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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hI everyone

first of all i apologise for yet another thread on this subject,i know there are loads on here( i have read most of them) anyway back to my problem i have a 1997p38 diesel the key fob was getting a bit tatty so i bought some new buttons on ebay and thought i may as well replace the batteries as well.

after both were fitted went to car buttons did not work ,opened door with key put in ignition display showed
engine disabled press remote or enter code .got code from handbook back to car this is what i did

1 unlock car open drivers door window ,lock car.
2 turn key in lock 4 times to lock position ,after each turn indicator side repeater flashed
3 while looking through window started the code sequence,after each turn when returning key to central position the side light indicator on instrument cluster flashed
4 after completing sequence checking lights flashed every time ,turned key to open and only drivers door opened and alarm still active
5 tried this many times over the weekend,waiting for key code lockout to clear ,still the same
6 rang rac who came out and tried the same as me to enter code with no luck, also disconnected battery waited 30 minutes tried again still no luck
7 rac suggested taking car to garage where it is now,hoping to put it on computer diag tomorrow.


my question is will they be able to hook it up while it is still alarmed,one thing i forgot to mention is the passenger door has never unlocked with fob i have to open drivers door and lean across to pull up button ,but if button on passenger side is pushed down ,all doors lock with central locking
after reading many threads it looks as though becm has locked out,and if it has is there anyone in stoke on trent area who can clear/reset it


thanks wil
 

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1995-2002 Range Rover P38A
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
forgot to say i rang main dealers to check eka code and they confirmed it was right
 

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You should try to re-sync the keyfob (after either fob or vehicle battery change/drain) perhaps that was the instigating factor - if the fob was working fine - and if it was and that's how you locked it then i think the first 4 turns are redundant.

To be clear, the 4 turns at the beginning of the sequence are only required if you [had] locked the vehicle physically with the key.

Your passenger lock has almost certainly fried a motor, change soon and check you have the latest 3rd gen RF receiver to prevent such things again.
 

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When you removed the batteries from the fob was the vehicle locked or unlocked?.If it was locked then (by remote fob) then the vehicle will definitely be immobilised and require either EKA code entry or unlocking with a synced remote FOB.If you only have one fob and the batteries were removed for more than one minute ,then the fob will lose sync and cannot be resynced while the vehicle remains in a alarmed/immobilised state.
The EKA procedure(ie whether to do four lock turns initially is based on year model and on whether you locked with key or fob.) The first digit of the EKA code ,the turn should always be in the unlock direction and the last digit turn to lock the vehicle.Then after complete entry of the EKA code the key should be turned once to unlock the vehicle and all doors should open and the engine remobilised.

As you say the the side light indicator on the instrument panel flashes each time you enter the EKA digits then the code is being inputted.If it is not being recognised then it is not the correct code.Your locksets/BECM may well have been changed and Land Rover database not updated.

If your BECM has gone into "alarmed state" then it can be unlocked but not by the Dealers.
I can help with that if required,but am not in your area .so you would have to remove the BECM and send it me in Hampshire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks for the replies
the car was locked with the fob.
so at the moment i am stuck with my car at main dealers,they are trying to put a diag computer on it to try and find the fault,but i dont hold out much hope as the car is still alarmed
have spoken to callrova and they think it has gone into(alarmed state)and as you say main dealers cannot unlock it .
next step is to get car recovered to home and send becm to callrova.
it has turned ouy to be a very expensive job ,all for the sake of new batteries in fob

thanks wil
 

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I tried the EKA (and getting it wrong, the sequence/count) many, many times before I got the knack and have never got a true 'alarmed/locked down' state so perhaps keep trying very carefully...of course assuming the EKA is correct for the BeCM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
will keep trying,checked eka code was correct with main dealer they said thats the one on there database ,but who knows,i only had car since last september,came with lots of receipts /paperwork but no mention of becm/changed codes
 

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Moral of the story.Check your EKA code before changing fob batteries and only remove the batteries when the vehicle is unlocked.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
can anyone confirm or give any advice on whether or not all doors have to be working on central locking for eka code to work
 

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All doors ,bonnet and tailgate have to be closed.If your passenger lock micro switch/s for door ajar is defective then the EKA will not be successful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
sorry to be a pain but am still puzzled,if passenger door does not unlock with fob but operates central locking when button pulled up or pushed down are the micro switches working or not
 

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I had a BECM cloned recently and had to EKA the modules too life. With no previous experience it can be very difacult to sequence everything right. The important thing that helped me was the head light icon indicated the sytem was taking the EKA code being inputted. after the four turns it started lighting up with each addition turn. Also, you need to let system time out after so many failed attempts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
when eka code was put in headlight icon lit up everytime ,but on final turn to unlock only drivers door unlocked
 

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sorry to be a pain but am still puzzled,if passenger door does not unlock with fob but operates central locking when button pulled up or pushed down are the micro switches working or not
That sounds as if the CDL switch is working.When you open pass. door does the interior light come on?
 

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'Working' in the sense of actuating on lock/unlock...No. The fact that the vehicle [could and did] lock prior to your changing the fob batteries points just to a fried latch motor. In the case of door ajar switches you'd then have had whatever was open displayed on the message center and get a 'mislock'.


***If the latch is old/original better a new one, that said you could just change the motor from another front latch (although not really worth it imo) or better a rear latch or later tailgate solenoid and you'd perhaps (cheaply) get some more life out of the latch, as it's the passenger it's not as critical as your drivers, but is that far behind??
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
yes when i open pass door interior light does come on
i remember when i first got car the drivers door kept sending message door openrhf it turned out to be the screws on the door edge holding latch in place were loose ,tightened them up problem solved
 

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It sounds as if the EKA code is incorrect.Has the dealer managed to access the BECM with diagnostics?
 
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